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ZeroRain
02-24-2005, 10:45 AM
i was wondering if there is a way to bypass the a/c because the bracket bolts busted in the head and i need to get it home. so i was asking if there is a smaller serp belt i can by that will bypass the ac until i can get the car home then fix the problem right.

mannysc
02-24-2005, 11:23 AM
i was wondering if there is a way to bypass the a/c because the bracket bolts busted in the head and i need to get it home. so i was asking if there is a smaller serp belt i can by that will bypass the ac until i can get the car home then fix the problem right.
the bolts in the head you mean the braket is loose from the head that will mean you womt be using the supercharger ether,

the jack shaft sits on the same bracket,

get a peice of rope and run it around the alt water pump and power steering pullys measure it and get a belt that long you have to remember which way the water pump flows when routing it, not sure it can be done with out a idler or jackshaft to take place of ac pully . i may be wrong think randy has bypassed his dont remember how.

this is from super red 91s post

ZeroRain
02-24-2005, 02:29 PM
yea i guess your right about the jackshaft but im not to worried about it im thinking about buying the car off ebay and i would prefer to drive it home then then waste gas there and back woth a truck. since my father is a trucker i could get him to take me there and then drive back myself.

Jeremy_K
02-24-2005, 02:46 PM
i have mine routed like manny's pic above. You will need to buy a 55 or 56" belt. it can be 5-rib or 8-rib. you have to grind the alignment pins off the back of the tensioner. then you can position the tensioner left to right depending on how much tension you want. i had probs with mine not getting enough tension wound up so i went to the junk yard and bought one from a N/A tbird which is not spring loaded. then you can have a friend hold tension against the belt while you tighten the hell outta the tensioner bolt. it works great! if you have any questions feel free to ask.

ZeroRain
02-24-2005, 02:49 PM
well then that will work great because i have a wrecked 91 n/a and i can pull the tensioner off that one. you said 55 or 56 belt with five or 8 rib. and i can just tell auto zone or advanced auto that and have a belt right away

Jeremy_K
02-24-2005, 03:02 PM
well then that will work great because i have a wrecked 91 n/a and i can pull the tensioner off that one. you said 55 or 56 belt with five or 8 rib. and i can just tell auto zone or advanced auto that and have a belt right away
i had to special order mine. come to think of it, i've bought 3 of these damn things. I bought one at car quest 56" they had in stock. it was slipping so i ordered one on autozone online 55" 5 rib. still had a slip so i bought a $30 gatorback belt from summit. still slipping so i went to the tensioner in my pics above and did the 2 man tensioner method. now it's very tight and does not squeal anymore. you can ask around. Hopefully the parts guys will know how to read the numbers on the belt so they know what size it is. The 5 rib kelly springfield belt ($12 at autozone) is 550K5. The 8-rib Kelly springfield would be 550K8. The gatorback from summit ($30+ and several weeks to ship) is 4080550 a good quality 8 rib belt. Hope this helps

ZeroRain
02-24-2005, 03:04 PM
thanks for the help guys

Jeremy_K
02-24-2005, 03:07 PM
oh yeah almost forgot... you have to cut or grind the pins off the back of the N/A tensioner also. i just used a dremel cut off wheel. you can see the pic of the N/a pulley in my above pic.

RustyUL
03-11-2005, 12:53 PM
How much time have you put on your belt with the tensioner routed like that. The grooved side of the belt is supposed to run in a grooved pulley. I would imagine you will go through belts quite a bit quicker with them routed as you have pictured?

Jeremy_K
03-11-2005, 01:59 PM
How much time have you put on your belt with the tensioner routed like that. The grooved side of the belt is supposed to run in a grooved pulley. I would imagine you will go through belts quite a bit quicker with them routed as you have pictured?
probably about 6 months total. i've used 3 different belts and 2 different pullies before it stopped squealing. the belt doesn't wear out faster. it's rubber on front and rubber on back. i'm pretty meticulate with my engine so i know if something like that is about to crap out ahead of time. i've had this gatorback belt on there for about 2 months now with no problems. i always carry spare in the trunk so i can change them on the side of the road.

RustyUL
03-11-2005, 04:43 PM
I was thinking about longevity of the belt in years...not months. I guess you are right, it's not a terribly hard job if you have a spare and tools.

Sampo
03-15-2005, 04:19 AM
oh yeah almost forgot... you have to cut or grind the pins off the back of the N/A tensioner also. i just used a dremel cut off wheel. you can see the pic of the N/a pulley in my above pic.

You have pm.! ;)