Brake Rotors & ABS

kevenj90sc

Registered User
My Brake Rotors are warped AGAIN; I know this is a typical thing with these cars. The originals vibrated so I had them turned; they were ok for a while then warped again so I bought new ones.... now they are warped also; then the other night I had to JAM on the brakes 'cuz 3 deer jumped the center divider onto I-90 and were right in front of me at 80 mph!... anyway now they are REALLY warped. Does anyone know if they Slotted Rotors are really any better as far as staying true? I really don't want to upgrade the whole brake system but I'd like for my dash not to jump up and down when I put on brakes.
 
There is a group buy on brakes over on the TCCoA.
It is about over you would need to ack fast if not today
to get in on the GP.
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?p=541539

The company selling the parts is
http://www.discbrakesrus.com/make/ford/thunderbird.htm

They just up'ed the price about $100.00 per kit.
You get to take off 15% plus about $100.00 on
each brake kit,with the group buy.

My brake were serging and the pads worn.So I got
13'' COBRA brakes for the front and 11.65 cobra
brakes for the rear.I hope this will stop any further
brake rotor warpage.Here is a couple pictures of
what cobra brakes look like for are SC.Both caliper
will be colored like the front caliper with the
thunderbird logo.

RANDY
 

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Kevin - I haven't found the drilled KVR rotors any better, nor the upgrade to the 11.57" (Mark V111 or '96 T/bird S) set-up. If you don't have the money I'd just buy the "Wearever" brand of stock rotors from Advanced Auto Parts - they are about $25ea. and just replace them when they warp (cos' you'll spend $15-20 getting them cut and then they warp even faster). The next upgrade would be the 99+ Mustang GT (PBR twin piston) calipers. You can bolt those directly onto '93+ t/bird spindles, retain the stock rotors;but you just have to shave a little off the caliper or banjo block on the passenger side (fairly easy). I got mine off the 'MustangParts' web site - they used to have salvaged sets (including pads) off late model crashed Mustangs. I think I paid $100.

PS. If you are having that much trouble, just make sure you lube your caliper pins and the pad contact points.
 
KVR seem to work well for me

When I bought my '90 SC it had KVR cross drilled rotors on the front. They seemed to work so well, I bought a set for my '97 LX.

Before I put the KVRs on my LX, I had an extra set of OEM rotors and kept swapping them out as they warped. So far, and it's been over a year, I haven't had any rotor warping problems on either car.

Eddie
'90 5-speed SC
'97 LX Sport
 
I have the KVR crossdrilled and have over 40k and have turned them once. Then again, I don't recall ever having to "nail" the brakes either.
 
Since I've started using a torque wrench on my lug nuts, I don't have near the problem with warping that I used to. I torque in sequence to about 95 foot pounds. I won't tell you it cures the problem, but It will definately extend the time between turnings.
 
Front brake surge can also be from worn front suspension bushings.
You may want to check the STRUTROD TENTIONER bushings.
Check to make sure the strutrod tentioner bushing connected to
the lower control-arm, & at the crossmember are tight.

RANDY
 
RustyUL said:
Since I've started using a torque wrench on my lug nuts, I don't have near the problem with warping that I used to. I torque in sequence to about 95 foot pounds. I won't tell you it cures the problem, but It will definately extend the time between turnings.
Oh yeah.. I'm sitting here scratching my head thinking I don't know whats up :confused: I rarely have problems with rotors warping. I usually only turn the rotors every couple of years to true them up a bit but the amount of surface removed is minor. I also always torque my lug nuts religiously to 90-95 lbs like you're supposed to. :cool:
 
I've read on many brake websites that you need to "bed" or break in the rotors and the pads. When you buy new rotors you are supposed to break them in with the old pads and vice versa when bedding new pads. drilled and slotted rotors are supposed to stay more cool.
 
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