brake line-locks for SC

Randy N Connie

Registered User
Has anyone installed line-lock for there SC.I have read where two line-locks need to be installed to work right with the brake system on a 1990 SC Bird.

Has anyone done this install ,and have some do's and don't,how to's for the job.

Thanks Randy
 
Randy N Connie said:
Has anyone installed line-lock for there SC.I have read where two line-locks need to be installed to work right with the brake system on a 1990 SC Bird.

Has anyone done this install ,and have some do's and don't,how to's for the job.

Thanks Randy

XR7 Dave has line loc on the XR7 and yes, you will need 2 solenoids because the front brakes are independant.
 
KURT
My rear rotors are blue and my rear pads are about wornout.
From doing to many burnouts.

I am getting ready to go though my brake system.So I thought
it would be a good time to install brake line-locks.And save
some ware & tare on my rear brakes during burnouts.

THANKS Randy
 
Randy N Connie said:
KURT
My rear rotors are blue and my rear pads are about wornout.
From doing to many burnouts.

I am getting ready to go though my brake system.So I thought
it would be a good time to install brake line-locks.And save
some ware & tare on my rear brakes during burnouts.

THANKS Randy

Use one solenoid for each front wheel. I mount them in the fenderwells themselves and use lengths of hard line to adapt to the existing brake lines so I can do it without cutting any lines. I can't remember if the lines are standard flare or bubble flare (the 93+ are all bubble flare) but they are all 10mm metric so you need adapters but it's pretty easy. Then I wired the two solenoids to a relay and put the switch on the shifter. Works great, I can now do burnouts without using any boost at all.
 
I got mine at Summit racing 2 seloniods SBR-LL $79.76 and intall kit SBR-LLK $15.99 . I still needed some fittings at Bumper to Bumper To connect, but I cut the lines and used double flare on the tubing. I mounted mine on the inner fender above the motor mounts area. When I had the engine out last winter. Worked out good for me. There is know way with the engine in to cut and flare those steel lines, so outer fender is probably your only option.
 
Thanks every one for your info.And Mike S. for info by e-mail,
thanks.Hope you set some records this year with your bird.

I should be OK with finding a place for mounting the seloniods.
I am close to reinstalling my K-Member,so that will make it
much easier to get to, and good for mounting of any parts.


Thanks RANDY
 
what are brake line locks? something ive never heard of, but all my knowledge has been building old (65-70) Mustangs...
honstly though, my sc is almost as fun as driving my '69 stang around.
 
Solenoid valves used to retain brake pressure in the lines. Been used on cars for drag racing since drag racing started.

Step on the brake pedal hard, turn on the line lock and release the pedal. The pressure in the fluid for the line you locked is retained. This is helps when staging for racing especially with a 5 speed. Get staged, lock the front brakes, get your foot on the gas, and the clutch ready to be released. then with a button close to the shifter, release the brakes just as you're taking off.

Oh, and they work well for doing burnouts without wearing on the rear brake pads.
 
Mike8675309 said:
Solenoid valves used to retain brake pressure in the lines. Been used on cars for drag racing since drag racing started.

Step on the brake pedal hard, turn on the line lock and release the pedal. The pressure in the fluid for the line you locked is retained. This is helps when staging for racing especially with a 5 speed. Get staged, lock the front brakes, get your foot on the gas, and the clutch ready to be released. then with a button close to the shifter, release the brakes just as you're taking off.

Oh, and they work well for doing burnouts without wearing on the rear brake pads.


Because of rear brake ware, is why I want to install line-locks.
Plus it is less stress on the other parts, besides the rear brake ware
while doing a burn out.I am going to be running 11.65 diameter
rear brake rotors,Cobra R brake set-up.So It will take more horse
power during a burnout, to turn my rear wheels.With the larger diameter
brake rotors & calipers, than stock on the rear..
RANDY
 
if you don't have ABS then you can just T the two front brake lines in together and split them after exiting the 1 solenoid.

even with abs i've found it not to be a problem running just one.

matt
 

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You defeat the purpose of a multi channel ABS system if you put the two front lines effectively disabling the ability of the ABS system to control individual wheel speed on the front.

You can do it, and it will work, but it will create unexpected results in a panic situation that calls for ABS activation. And when you consider that the stock system is 3 channel (the rears are actuated together) you really limit the ABS potential help.
 
Mike8675309 said:
You defeat the purpose of a multi channel ABS system if you put the two front lines effectively disabling the ability of the ABS system to control individual wheel speed on the front.

You can do it, and it will work, but it will create unexpected results in a panic situation that calls for ABS activation. And when you consider that the stock system is 3 channel (the rears are actuated together) you really limit the ABS potential help.


agreed... i probably should have mentioned that i removed everything but the actual ABS unit in the engin bay.. no ABS in the rear, and the front spindles were replaced with NON abs ones when the bearings seized to them.

that's why they recomend two solenoids for an abs vehicle and you put them downstream of the abs. if you put them before the ABS unit when you engauge the line locks it will make the ABS flip out and it may not hold the car.
there was a nice write up in MM&FF years ago that was good for the ABS crowd.
matt
 
I bought the same units and install kit as mention above (Biondi was the brand... I think). I put mine in the wheel well on the outer side of the inner fenders.

With a little tweaking, all it took was cutting the metric fitting off the line, a little trimming and putting a std fitting on the line with a new double flared end. No new line was needed. Took about 3 hours total. I put the light under the corner of the dash console (haven't had time to mount it yet) and the switch is on the side of the console by my right elbow. Having it on the shifter itself would be too annoying in daily use as I rarely race the car... although I haven't driven it much in the last 18 months either. :rolleyes:
 
BlackbirdSC
I don't race my SC either ,but my wife said she would like to try
LINE-LOC brakes for when she go's to Wal-Mart on saturdays. :)

I may ditch the ABS system.As soon as it breaks down,its gone.
Its to big under my hood & weighs 25lbs Iv heard..I would like
to swap the stock brake ABS mastercylinder out for a cheaper
& simpler stang part.

It will be about three more weeks before I get all my brake parts.
I am waiting on new calipers and rotors front and back.So I
would like to install line-locs at that time.I don't what to have to
bleed the brakes over and over.

Rebuilding the suspension right now.So when I finish ,
my SC bird should run for another 100,000 miles,
Or a couple weeks .Which ever comes first.

THANKS Randy
 
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matt'sdrag95 said:
if you don't have ABS then you can just T the two front brake lines in together and split them after exiting the 1 solenoid.
Can someone please explain this a little better?
Maybe with a little scehmatic or something?
 
he means T the front right and left lines together, install a single line loc, then split that line back to the left and right wheels.
 
T-bird4vr said:
he means T the front right and left lines together, install a single line loc, then split that line back to the left and right wheels.
Julian, if you do that, the ABS won't function as it should. You need two(2) solenoids.
 
I figure I'll just post pictures so everyone can see. I've been running this set-up for at least two years now, not one single flaw. I couldn't find any metric to NPT fittings so I cut the stock flare off the hard line, slipped a 3/16 fitting on, and reflared the line. I then used the stock fitting on the other end, flared the line and connected it back into the rubber line. Works like a charm. I just wired them together, and a switch connects the ground to the system to activate. I think i also added a 25amp fuse somewhere on the positive end. Holds em good, even starting in 3rd gear. :D

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