Mike8675309 said:
With a tuner's perspective, with the different way Pro-M plays with the numbers compared to C&L with their sample tubes what is a more ideal way of doing things? I.e. what allows the tuner the best ability to get that SC motor tuned?
It's something I'm wondering especially when thinking of a cam with a bit of a burble to it.
To answer this question, the ideal way of doing it is to have a meter that has reliable electronics (OE is best), known airflow path and a detailed transfer function that you can plug into the tuner file.
If you use this information to choose your MAF you will be better off than simply plugging in ANY meter and hoping it will work.
The one thing you have complete control of and which affects any meter, is the airflow path. Putting a cone filter directly on the MAF and mounting it in an area that is not restricted and doesn't see a lot of turbulence is the best.
Then, OE electronics are more reliable which is one of the reasons the OE uses them! Altering the MAF in any way is going to affect the end result, so I would have to say that a C&L is not ideal for that reason. However, finding an OE meter that doesn't peg without alteration, and fits your SC without modifying it is another issue. The world is full of compromises. You have to pick the ones you want to accept. The L 90MM unit is good for about 400rwhp without pegging, so it is a good alternative for some people. The SCT MAF is a better version of the stock L 90MM. It has an extended transfer function that won't peg and since it is made by the same company that made the stock meter so quality and consistency is OE grade. However, your SC won't run with one unless you have a chip, so that poses a problem for some people. For example, you can't even drive the car temporarily while waiting for a dyno tune with this meter. A lot of people like the idea of driving the car (taking it easy) with a calibrated MAF until tuning can be performed as well as the "bolt in" aspect. I know I prefer this in most cases.
As for the tuning difference between a Pro M and C&L, it is purely a matter of time. For a person like Jerry who generally tunes an SC in one dyno pull and one reflash of the chip, a transfer function that he can plug in quickly makes his job easier and faster. I've seen Jerry tune cars in a matter of 5 minutes if everything is right and the transfer function is correct. However, I've also seen it take a lot longer because a meter didn't read right and he had to plot an entirely new transfer function. This is not something that is brand specific. I've seen Pro M meters dead out of the box. It happens. At least with a C&L if the car was running before you put it on, it will run after.
Most C&L meters do not have a known specific transfer function - wait, yes they do, they have the stock Ford one. It is just either skewed up or down depending on sample tube. However, I have actual transfer functions for some of the C&L meters and those are the meters that I use most and sell with chips that match them.
Does that help?