Before Dyno Tuning ?'s

HHHthegame

Registered User
The place in White Bear lake that will be Dyno Tuning my 95 SC said that I need to have these things done or they won't do it. Is there anything on this list that I can't do to the car if it needs to be done? Also, after the dyno tune can you leave those plugs at that gap of 0.030 ? Or do I have to switch them back to the platinums again? Thanks for the help guys !! Austin
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In order to save hassles on the day of tuning and to save dynotime, which in turn saves you money, you should take care of the following items before you come to the dyno for your tune.

If your car has adjustable timing via the distributor, it must be set to 10* prior to the tune. If we check and set timing, we will charge $25 for it.

Fuel pressure must be set to stock specs prior to the tune.

On a blown car, the fuel pressure regulator MUST have the vacuum hose connected to the boost side of the blower, or we will not tune the car.

The EEC must be functional as must all diagnostic ports, including the OBD II port.

Be sure you have copper spark plugs in the car. On a blown car, we must change plugs to copper before we will tune the car.

The spark plugs should be gapped at 0.035 for NA and 0.030 for blown applications.

Make sure you have good spark plug wires,

You should have decent back tires to avoid dyno roller slippage.

Be sure all belts and hoses are sound. The cooling system must also be adequate.

No coolant leaks or ‘smoking’ cars. Please fix all mechanical problems prior to the tune.

If possible, but not required run a code check to be sure you are not throwing codes – if you are, please fix them prior to the tune.

If you have an aftermarket MAF it should be calibrated for the injector size you are using or it may take additional dyno time.

We can tune with Ford MAFs and Pro-M MAF’s

On blown cars, be prepared to disconnect the FMU, have a vacuum line plug ready, we don’t do FMUs.

On blown cars the ACT (computer temp sensor) must be after the blower, not before it like some SN95s. We will not tune your blown car if this is not done

On blown cars, you must have an adequate fuel system, an adequate pump and injectors prior to the tune. We can help you decide if your combo has an adequate fuel system.

If possible, have a welded in 02 sensor bung. If you have rear 02 sensors, you will not need an 02 sensor bung, we will turn off the rear 02 sensors and use one of those bungs.

Have your EEC hanging out or uncovered and ready to be ‘chipped’ before you get to the dyno. Email us the EEC Catch code, e.g A9l, GTG3, etc. If we remove your EEC, we will charge $25 for this.
 
The thing that scares me is they want the MAF calibrated to the size injectors you have. That tells me they dont know how to tune a car. You match the MAF to how much power you make or air injested in the motor. Other then that if you car is stock you cant adjust timing, fuel pressure things like that. Put coper plugs in it and if you want gap them to .030 i never had a problem running stock gap with a coper plug.
 
Sounds like a Stang tuner who doesn't know a damn thing about SCs. There is no need to change to copper plugs, but having new plugs always helps. Tightning the plug gap isn't needed on an SC because the ignition system was designed for forced induction.

I think you would have better luck working long distance with Dave Dalke.

David
 
This is what I have feared, lol. I would LOVE to work w/ Dave Dalke but I have no access to a dyno here and the fact that he is 1000 miles away doesnt help me any either :( . The place is called RJR Motorsports and the guys name is Chris. That is the email he sent me about dyno tuning my 95 SC. I will send him one back about the plugs not being gapped, are there anyother things i should say to him to help dyno tune the car better?
 
Make sure you have the function sheet for your Pro-M. Ask them if they have any data logging equipment to help tune. Things like a NSG Star tester really help. Im not into SC im a mustang guy but if you have a Auto and its computer controled make sure they also tune it. you might want to right down some things that you hate about the auto so they can tune them. On a stang you can chage the MPH / RPM that it shifts gears at different TPS voltages. So if you want it to hold 3rd gear at WOT to 6k it can be changed. Also lock up torque converter functions can be changed. To dynotune the first thing they should do is make a tune that hold 3rd gear TC locked to get a acurate base hp/tq
 
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David,

I think he is reading off a generic rule that they have...Probably to avoid lawsuits when they blow crap up...

Hell who knows what they use..If anything..A Dyno tune on a stang generally involves no chip buring at all
 
I'll be in Milwaukee June 25th, don't know if that helps. Tell them you have copper plugs gapped at .030". Like they are going to pull a plug to check them! lol

Calibrated MAF's are best. An MAF that has a stock calibration will peg as soon as you make any kind of substantial Hp gains on bigger injectors. I also prefer them because it is always nice if the car will at least run without the chip installed.

That checklist sounds a lot like the SCT checklist. :D
 
It will have an SCT 1 program chip installed for $325 as well at the dyno tuning place. I have a 77mm Pro-M unit that is calibrated for 36# injectors which I installed in the car this past winter since the person before me had 30# in there.
 
Ok, I sent him he email, I will let ya know what his answers are, If anyone else has thoughts by all means lets hear em, lol. Austin
 
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