The mechanic finally fixed my car???

ERamos

Registered User
Well from my previous post my mechanic just told me they figured the non start problem. I had a short in the wires going to my fuel pump with was giving me nonstart problems at first. They replaced the fuel pump then it still wouldn't start, the computer, the cam sensor, the crank sensor and it still wouldn't start. They finally found there suposably last piece of their puzzel some relay related to the computer, I have not seen the receipt yet but it then started. They took the cam sensor out and put the orig back in. They tried to put the old computer back in so he says and it would not run. So then I ask for the damage and he tells me $1100, this is f'ing crazy. I brought the car in there running, I knew there was a short, and then the car got stuck there, and all these things go wrong, this is crazy. I mean I went to school for electronics so I understand that a short could fry some other circuits but this coincidental stuff going wrong is crazy. Whos to say the fuel pump was bad in the first place. I don't know what I am gonna do, if I am gonna pay him, pay him in payments or refuse to pay some of it. I don't even drive this car, thank god I bought something else but it sucks to almost hate a car I love because of a bullsh*t mechanic.
 
Glad to hear your car is running. Sorry to hear about the price, although, I can hear the dollar signs turning over with every hour that goes by while my mechanic looks at my car. I'm haveing a "loss of power" when the car get to operating temperature. Hope they find it soon. There is only 3 more electronic things to replace on the goddam car before I have replaced them all!
 
Uh Mike, that sounds exactly like me. Loss of power when the motor gets warm. Can't squeal tires, etc.

What are the other 3 items you have yet to replace? I'm sure I've already replaced them. I've replaced about everything and it hasn't fixed the problem.

What year is yours Mike? Mine's a '94 Auto.

Dale
 
I'm currently having the same warm power loss on a '92 Blazer 4x4, I am going to start with electric sensors that could be getting warm, and sending incorrect info of a nature to affect performance to the cpu. Like maybe the knock sensor retarding timing because its retarded, a temp sensor thinking the engine never heats up, or similar. It could even be carbon build up sufficient enough to cause knock after the engine heats up. I'll post the results, I wouldn't doubt if they are similar.
 
Make sure you get all the old parts.

Make sure you get all the old parts back. Just to make sure they did put in the new parts. From your description, sounds like they just changed the fuel pump relay to get it to run. See it any of your old parts still work, and maybe they can knock your total bill down.
 
Dale Puumala said:
Uh Mike, that sounds exactly like me. Loss of power when the motor gets warm. Can't squeal tires, etc.

What are the other 3 items you have yet to replace? I'm sure I've already replaced them. I've replaced about everything and it hasn't fixed the problem.

What year is yours Mike? Mine's a '94 Auto.

Dale

Dale,

I have not replaced the DIS module, the coil pack and the MAF. My mechanic has had the car under an ocilliscope while the car was running like crap, and the ignition system is working great...so its not that. He checked the MAF meter, and that was up to par also. He and 2 other mechanics are scrambling their brains trying to figure this problem out. Please check my new thread called "Somebody, anybody, HELP"

btw, Its a 1990 5 speed
 
Have you guys checked the CATs. Clogged CATs will cause the engine to lose power as they heat up. The only other thing off the top of my head might be the knock sensordetecting false knock or real knock and pulling timing. Temp sensors are just varible resistors and can be checked for correct reading with a warm engine. I doubt it would be a vacuum leak since this would cause stumble and engine miss or stall when cold.

Jerry
 
Jerry,

I agree with everything you say. That's also why I haven't gone looking for a vacuum leak.

On your other points, to my problem, I replaced my front half exhaust this spring, including straight-through cats. Also, I currently have my knock sensor unplugged, and there is no knocking and the problem is still there.

Right now our current thinking is I'm just running too hot, and the computer is pulling timing because of that. But there are still some odities with that theory, so I'm not sure.

Dale
 
I have attached a image from my 1990 Ford Emission/Diagnossis Manual. This chart show the resistance values per temp so you can check the sensors. Just pull off the connector and use a DVM to check ohms across the resister. There is only two pins just connect across the pins. The EEC is sending 5V and the voltage the EEC gets back is then calculated to determine the engine temp. Now if you have a lose connection or open circuit the EEC will see 0 volts and will think the engine is over 248 degrees. A short in the wiring would see 5V back to the computer and thus fooling the EEC into thinking that the temp is below 50 degrees. I am 90% sure that each of these extremes would set a code.

I had a brainstorm while looking at the chart and came up with this idea: Get say a 3.84K ohm resister and wire it to the sensor harness connector to fool the EEC into thinking the engine is 176 degrees. You would not hookup the sensor but instead jump the two leads on the harness with the resistor.

P.s. I thought the 94-95 had a pusher fan that would run if the EEC thought the engine was overheating. Have you checked the fan for operation?
Jerry
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