Cooling problems

9

94SCblack5speed

Registered User
Car was over heating. Guage was going beyond "m". I flushed the system and replaced the t-stat. Car continued to run hot. Fan would not come on at all until the guage was well beyong "m" then the fan would run for about 5-10sec and just shut off. Theres alot of dirt and grim in the new coolant to could my radiaotr just be blocked up ?
 
Try removing your radiator and taking it to a shop to have it cleaned out and pressure checked. I took mine out and they said it was 45% blocked. Also, turn on the defroster or AC b/c it will automatically turn on your fan. When we had my car hooked up to a computer (with the A/C off), the reached 217 deg. before the cooling fan kicked on! When my motor gets done, I plan to replace the radiator w/ a griffin, 180* t-stat, reprogrammed ecc to turn on fan at 180*, and possibly a 25/75 water to coolant ratio.
 
It's also possible that just the low speed motor winding has burned out and then just the high speed is kicking in long enough to cover the higher temp range. If you turn your a/c on (car just idling) or run the KOEO test with a code reader, that low speed fan should automatically run. If it doesn't then that or the IRCM relay could be your problem. Second line of defence would be to cut wire #14 (I believe 14 is the low speed and 17 is the high - it's been a long time since I put a switch in mine) of the IRCM relay module, that is mounted on the back of the bumper frame, just to the right of the headlamp assembly & in front of your air cleaner box. Anyway if you cut that wire the low speed should also run continuously - some people including myself put a switch in line and use the low speed full time during the summer months.
 
sonicman1634 said:
possibly a 25/75 water to coolant ratio.
Click to expand...
Try 75/25 water to coolant, and some Purple Ice: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&tc=photo&item=7962016277&category=33602

Water is a much better cooling agent than coolant, the reason for the coolant is corrosion/calcium build up protection from the water and to prevent the water from freezing.



94SCblack5speed,

Let the car warm up and feel the top radiator hose. When it is hot, put your hand between the radiator and the motor and feel the temp of the air blowing out. If the upper hose is hot, the radiator should be blowing hot air. If the upper hose is hot, but there is cool air blowing from the radiator, it’s plugged.
 
matteo said:
Try 75/25 <a href="http://www.ntsearch.com/search.php?q=water&v=56">water</a> to coolant, and some Purple Ice: http://cgi.<a href="http://www.ntse...wItem&tc=photo&item=7962016277&category=33602

<a href="http://www.ntsearch.com/search.php?q=Water&v=56">Water</a> is a much better cooling agent than coolant, the reason for the coolant is corrosion/calcium build up protection from the <a href="http://www.ntsearch.com/search.php?q=water&v=56">water</a> and to prevent the <a href="http://www.ntsearch.com/search.php?q=water&v=56">water</a> from freezing.



94SCblack5speed,

Let the <a href="http://www.ntsearch.com/search.php?q=car&v=56">car</a> warm up and feel the top radiator hose. When it is hot, put your hand between the radiator and the motor and feel the temp of the air blowing out. If the upper hose is hot, the radiator should be blowing hot air. If the upper hose is hot, but there is cool air blowing from the radiator, it’s plugged.
Click to expand...


Whoops, typed it backwards! sorry about that. I bet I look like a jackass.
 
I actually bought a fan controller for mine a few months ago. However since then it was at my parents house and the directions have gone bye bye. I am going to try to figure out how to reroute the ECT sensor through this thermistor and place the sensor in the upper hose. That way I could have total controll of the fan till I get one of Mikes products...

Chris
 
Theres alot of dirt and grim in the new coolant to could my radiaotr just be blocked up ?
Click to expand...
Check
coolant level - normal [good] ...-low [bad] check oil level .....-high [real bad]...check rad for leak ...check carpet under glove box /dash ...for a heater core leak - check for grey goo[lack of a better word].. in overflow bottel/rad cap ..that be from the material ...that was part of a stock head gasket ...also look for a plugged overflow line .... well thats the bad ...since you did drain the system ...did you purge the coolant system after refilling it ..may have a airlock in the system....dave
 
I think i will cut that wire and put a switch in. My coolant does have alot of greyish gunk in it and it seems to be losing coolant somewhere. I checked every hose and the rad and no leaks. My car has had a loss of power espically under boost. I just figuered it was the DIS or something but have not gotten around to replacing it. Could a headgasket be blown or would I see bigger problems? -Thanks for all the responses.
 
Ifn ya git one of those fandangled ones with the twistie style temp sender, Shoot me a wiring diagram since Im stoopid and lost mine...

Chris
 
Headgasket

It sound like one of your headgaskets has blown.
You may not have it bad, yet, but it sounds like you have at least a small leak where the combustion is leaking into the coolant passage.
Some headgasket failures are subtle while others are spectacular. POOF!
My 3.8 Mustang did the exact same thing. I even had bubbles in the coolant overflow tank.
 
I had some bubbles after flushing the system in the overflow tank but they went away after starting the car and runnin it a few times. Is there anyway to determine if it is definalty a headgasket?
 
94SCblack5speed said:
I had some bubbles after flushing the system in the overflow tank but they went away after starting the car and runnin it a few times. Is there anyway to determine if it is definalty a headgasket?
Click to expand...

white smoke out the tail pipe that smells like coolant will tell you there is a blown gasket. or if your oil level is real high and looks like chocolate milk.

i think every SC owner should have to do the head gaskets, its like a right of passage. ;) i just wish i knew about this forum before i did mine.



oh, and sonicman, sorry for jumping on you earlier. :eek:
 
Compression test

94SCblack5speed said:
I had some bubbles after flushing the system in the overflow tank but they went away after starting the car and runnin it a few times. Is there anyway to determine if it is definalty a headgasket?
Click to expand...

I would do a compression test on all cylinders. Or even a cylinder balance test might tell you if you have a weak cylinder.
You can also do a pressure test of the cooling system to see where the coolant is going.
 
If the pressure test does not pan out you can always take it to a shop and have a HG test done on it. It involves a chemical test that turns the blue stuff green because of exhaust gasses...

Chris
 
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