Headgasket failed, looking for some info.

89SCK@t

Registered User
I work at Auto Zone and I get all of my parts and tools for 20% off. Not bad. Let me get back to the reason I posted.

I am going to be doing a BUTT load of work to my Bird, once I am able to get into a friends shop, and I have roughly 72 hours to complete everything. My HG's failed at 249K miles. Right now, I am looking at replacing all the gaskets on the top part of the motor, changing the motor mounts, installing the Kooks mid-length headers(I know, I know), changing the rear to 3.27. Full plate so far...

I need to know what spark plugs would work the best in a slightly modded SC.

Also, would ratcheting wrenchs be a worth-while investment? I can get a set from Auto Zone for like $45 and it ranges from 10MM-19MM. I know they are Duralast...which aren't that great...but I cannot afford Craftsman.

More questions might pop to mind, but that is all I can think of right now.

Thanks,

Stephen
 
I am a little leary..

Your gaskets went with 247,000 MILES!!! and you're just replacing the gaskets.....I would probably suggest that changing the bottom end or freshening the bearings at least. 247,000 miles is A LOT of miles to be just doing gaskets on it.

If your doing that much to the motor, I suggest that you at least look into making sure the bottom end is stout enough to take the extra power you're throwing at it.

Not saying that you're doing a bad thing, just I have had similar situations and would DEFINITELY suggest the bottom end deal. Would cost about...$350 for you doing it.

Just my .02 into a possibly touchy situation.....



Don

If you have questions, feel free to call....


(973) 277-4294


Anyone else with a similar opinion, please chime in.
 
i know the bottom end needs to be looked at, but i really need to get my SC on the road...my TC is acting up.

The SC already has a 10%, lightweight jackshaft pulley, highflow cats, custom top(my design), and a custom CAI. The 10% was on it when I bought the car.

My original questions are still unanswered...ratcheting wrenches...worth it or no? what spark plugs to use on a slightly modded SC? Why is the sky blue? :D

Stephen
 
Ratcheting Box Wrenches = Good

I purchased the Sears Gearwrench ratcheting box end wrenches. They helped out great when trying to get to the bolts at the rear of the plenum.
They usually go on sale for $40 for a set of 7 or 8.
As for the plugs the best recommendations are the Motorcraft AWSF34PP double platinum plugs. They are the OEM replacement. They may have a new part number but can be cross referenced on the Motorcraft.com web site. The Autolite APP2544 plugs are the same. I have been using the Autolite APP764 which are a little shorter to help keep the kernel from blowing out. They have worked out good so far.
Have the heads checked, milled the same on both and pressure tested.
Also have the surfaces of your intake that meet the heads checked for flatness and any corrosion around the front a rear coolant ports.
Good luck!
Bill
 
OH...just thought of a question.

I know that my dad used anywhere between 1/2qt to a Qt of kerosene(sp?) as an "Oil System Cleaner"...this was on older cars that he had owned. My question is: Could I use kerosene to do the same thing on my SC? I am thinking no, because of all the sensors, but my SC does have a few miles on it and it probably missed a couple of regular oil changes in its life. Maybe I could clean it up a little...Short answer to my question...Yes, No, or Hell NO!

Stephen
 
I wouldn't

I wouldn't at all. Due to sensitivity of the sensors you may open up a can of worms.
The only real way of cleaning out the engine is a rebuild.
I have heard some horror stories that kerosene had caused other sorts of problems.
So I would stay away from any engine flush shtuff.
Just my 1-1/2 cents. (due to depreciation).LOL
Bill
 
i dont know why you are even considering ratchet wrenches, they are the greatest thing EVER.

and if you can get them for $45, can you pick me up a set too? im sick of borrowing my friend's. :D
 
I have heard horror stories too. But my dad always taught me to use 1/2 qt, if engine only holds 4 qts, 1 qts if engine holds 5 or more. Flush for 5 mins, then drain. Put new oil in, run for 15 min. Drain then refill again. Everything gets re-lubricated...if thats a word... :D

matteo - Let me find out the entire price for em. they are combo ratcheting wrenches, 10-19MM. If you want them, Ill let you know the entire price with my discount. They are Duralast...just to let you know...they do have a lifetime warranty on them...wonder if it is as good as craftsman?
 
if they are $50 or less i'll buy them as soon as you can get them. those things are so damn useful but expensive as hell where ever i look. thanks.
 
..don't be putting kerosene in that engine....why take a chance on creating more problems.....since you're going that deep into the motor you really should check out the bottom end..be terrible to r/r the hg's and then spin a bearing.
z
 
No

DO NOT PUT KEROSENE IN MOTOR!!!!!



That was an old school trick of really old motors with limited mileage. It was thought that by putting kerosene in the oil, it would thin the dried oil and clean the crankcase. Well, your oil pick-up will find all the pieces and so will te filter, cloging the oil system and therefore, causing you to pull the pan.

I do not suggest doing that on ANY MOTOR.

WIth that many miles, be glad it runs right!!!!!! :D


Don
 
kerosone... i laugh at that.... i used diesel to clean my crank case out.. and now that i have my motor out... everything looks so shiny! and nothing is on the pickup screen! muahahaha!
 
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