Unless there is not a hotspot on the flywheel (the blue spots), Then you should resurface it. These inconsistancies will cause your clutch to be halflived and we dont want that now do we?
When you are replacing the clutch it's best to replace the slave cylinder, replace the tranny fluid (add friction modifier), resurface or replace the flywheel. Spec and almost all other clutch companies will not warranty the clutch if you do not resurface or replace the flywheel. Spec includes a new slave cylinder with every clutch kit they sell.
Aside from any internal tranny problems this will provide you years of troublefree problems.
I had mine resurfaced, replaced the master and slave, pilot and throwout, clutch disc, pressure plate, even got a new braket for the pedal since I broke the other one. I also run Mobil 1 syn ATF in my M5R2.
C'mopn. If all of us are telling you the same thing, it might be a good idea. If you are still pondering doing this without the resurface, time yourself and see how long it takes you. Then think about the PITA factor. Then think about haveing to do it again cause you burned the flywheel face off of the clutch surface. Add the cost to that. In my book it adds up to resurfacing that bad boy.
You should definitely have the flywheel cut. I went to PepBoys and surprisingly they actually had the specs for our flywheel; they moaned a bit about having to pull the plate pins, but I think it cost me like $25-30 & they did a nice job the same day. You can then also replace your rear crank oil seal while the flywheel is off and use a little liquid teflon sealant on the flywheel bolts, because some oil can weep thru. The only question I was never able to resolve was whether you should use shim washers behind the flywheel to compensate for the depth of cut. Because my pedal is definitely annoyingly higher since replacing the clutch. You can also install the 1/2" bigger clutch from the '94 on your ealier model.
Is this only on kits from SPEC? I didn't see this mentioned on their website, and I recently purchased a Stage 2 kit and all I received were the pinion bearing, throwout bearing, and alignment shaft. (besides the pressure plate, clutch disk, and flywheel). I didn't purchase the kit direct from Spec.
Thats because putting the bearing up there has the potential to screw your input shaft all to he11. The bearing will collect crap from the clutch, road, etc that can get in there and mix with the grease that is in the bearing. Once this happens it chews up the shaft.
it is done i got it resurfaced for $30.and the clutch i am putting on this weekend and the trans and drive shaft will be picked up sat. or monday. I will let you all know how it goes.
I am not trying to call you out here. I speak from expirience. I have seen the clutch and metal from the, ummmm how should I put this, the clutch and flywheel get in the bearing and round off an entire side of the input shaft.
I'm going to inspect my trans input shaft today. The part in the end of the crankshaft currently is a bearing and simply just looks dry.
The standard material from the stock clutch material shouldn't cause any trouble for a steel bearing but getting into the Spec materials may be different. Mine is a stage 2 unit that should be a Kevlar material. Stage 3 says carbon/ceramic.
Certainly if steel waste material would get into the bearing there could be issues. I'll just see what it looks like on my trans. I'll probably call up Spec on Monday and talk to their techs about it as well since some people received bushings in the past.