supercharger oil

tcrow31

Registered User
hey my sc is leaking supercharger oil from the inner seal. i cant fix it for a few weeks. i was wondering if there is a cheaper oil that i can use for temporary until i fix it.
 
BP 2380 turbine oil costs approximately $14 shipped for a quart which is enough to fill four superchargers.
It is sold at http://www.oil-store.com/
Choose "Aviation", then "BP Turbine Oils", and then "BP Turbo Oil 2380 - 1Qt".
 
Mobil I 0-30

;) BEEN USING FOR 4 YEARS NOW :eek: WITH NO PROBLEM :D ALSO SLOWED DOWN THE NOSE LEAK :confused: ONLY ADD A LITTLE EVERY 3 MONTHS OF STEADY DRIVING :p
 
I am taking all of your words on the GM oil.... I just picked up 92 SC at a repo and police seized auction.... Blower oil was low and dingy looking, snout is making noise. I put the whole 4oz bottle of gm oil in......

It burned me to go to a Gm parts counter today... place was a dump...
 
paulford8 said:
I am taking all of your words on the GM oil.... I just picked up 92 SC at a repo and police seized auction.... Blower oil was low and dingy looking, snout is making noise. I put the whole 4oz bottle of gm oil in......

It burned me to go to a Gm parts counter today... place was a dump...

It must have been really low to need all 4 oz. Your only supposed to fill it to the bottom of the fill hole threads.

David
 
i got the GM fluid for 4.50 canadian / 4oz bottle which should be like 3 something US i suppose. weird. anyway mine was really low too, used prob 3/4of the 4oz bottle.
 
David Neibert said:
It must have been really low to need all 4 oz. Your only supposed to fill it to the bottom of the fill hole threads.

David

Car has 134K and I am assuming it has never been checked or changed.....

I was getting to the last drops in the bottle and figured it would just take it all, gave her one last hard sqeeze and it ended up filled a little to much... a thread or two higher then the first two......

I am assuming running low for years is what has caused me snout noise.
 
Thanks guys for your help. i hated having to put that expensive SC oil in cause i knew it was leaking right out kinda of a expensive waste of money.
 
ThunderRoad said:
;) BEEN USING FOR 4 YEARS NOW :eek: WITH NO PROBLEM :D ALSO SLOWED DOWN THE NOSE LEAK :confused: ONLY ADD A LITTLE EVERY 3 MONTHS OF STEADY DRIVING :p

Did you have to drain all the old Synthetic fluids out first before putting the Mobile one in or did you just mix them together??.....Tim
 
tcrow31 said:
Did you have to drain all the old Synthetic fluids out first before putting the Mobile one in or did you just mix them together??.....Tim

...get a turkey baster and suck all of the old oil out then put the new/clean oil in.....make sure that the blower is cool before opening the fill plug or you will be wearing the oil....and smelling really bad!
z
 
z90sc said:
...get a turkey baster and suck all of the old oil out then put the new/clean oil in.....make sure that the blower is cool before opening the fill plug or you will be wearing the oil....and smelling really bad!
z

LOL! Thanks man...Tim
 
Just buy the oil at your Ponitac dealer. You can get a new seal at a bearing supplier or from Tbird88.
 
Does it say anything in the bottle about the ingredients,sae class, or anything about the product in GM or ford bottles???

Well, Whipple uses 5w-50 synthetic oil so I gues that is ok for me too ;)....
 
paulford8 said:
Car has 134K and I am assuming it has never been checked or changed.....
Thats a good assumption; if its a repo, that assumption should apply to everything else on the car. Your engine mounts are trashed, the trans fluid is baked, your brakes are down to the plates, the radiator may be full of who knows what, the ball joints are shot, the ABS accumulator is worn, etc.. Just take it 1 thing at a time. :D
 
suutari said:
Does it say anything in the bottle about the ingredients,sae class, or anything about the product in GM or ford bottles???

Well, Whipple uses 5w-50 synthetic oil so I gues that is ok for me too ;)....

Just because Whipple uses that oil doesn't mean it's okay to use in an M-90. If you don't want to buy the specified fluid from Ford or GM, then use something that's been proven to work like BP2380 jet turbine oil.

David
 
David is right.. We just filled my supercharger with the BP2380 Jet Turbine oil.. It looks and smells almost identical to the GM supercharger oil.. Its very thin, which is needed for the high RPM operation. I would be concerned that any motor oil would be too thick to allow proper lubrication to the front-most bearing. Not to mention parasitic losses on the engine.
 
I wonder why BP2380 comes in a sealed tin can. Won't metal particles fall into the oil when the can is opened?
 
Example:
18000 Kenne Bell/Autorotor female drive rotor rpm is 27000 male rotor rpm.
18000 Lysolm female drive rotor rpm is 30000 male rotor rpm or 11%higher.

So...eaton spins at a lot less rpm than any of the twin screw setups...plus the twinscrews have smaller teaths on the gears than eaton. the reason why eaton uses turbine oil is that it´s supposed to outlast the charger...surely if you change oils ones a year etc. there is no reason why we should by really expensive GM or Ford labeled oils..plus the benefit of cheaper oils is that you can change them more often and keep always nice and clean oils in the charger. Now if you look into oil business you can see that there are many many oils that will do the same job as good as the originals. for example in your car...other oil just has oil change period of 60 000km and the other 20 000km/ones a year.
witch nmotor oil would you choose..other is 50$ per litre with all the same rankings and almost the same quality markings and temperature capability?

Now I won´t say that everybody should use oils like this in the chargers...
the thicker the oil teh more power it takes to drive the charger.
But for sure I´m finding out this thing and I´m willing to use what I see the best alternative to original oils since here in no mans land where is only 5mil. people it´s really hard to get the right stuff cheaply....

PS: good example of this is the industrial powerplants that use turbine oils in the generators and turbines :)...do you know how long they are in the system? They will never be changed if no accidents happen(or the chaning period is something like 10years or contamination/boiling points are measured) and they should outlast the gasturbine life....that´s why they have oil cleaning systems in the turbine oil system...and that´s why they keep the turbine room clean ;)...so the **** doesn´t get to the oil. That is not the place for filthy persons to work in..

maximum steam temperatures is really high and the operating turbine is really hot too..steams are in the range of 1000+'C!! so how hot does eaton roots blower spin? 100-200'C...sure we need turbine oils :).

PS: here is the autorotor page that shows the input speed..the max rpm is about the same as eaton m-90 and the gear construction is about the same...
aftermarket dudes spin them faster tho ;)...
http://www.opconab.com/www/files/lysholm/pdf/performance charts/diagram_lys2300ax.pdf
 
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The service manual for my 97 GTP says use gm p/n xxx or 5W30 full
synthetic oil. Fill hole is on the snout and you need the right size
torx bit to remove it. Check the level cold and fill to the bottom of
the threads.
The service manual for my 97 GTP says any full synthetic 5w30 can be
used for S/C lube. Check the oil level with the engine cool(off for at
least 2 hours). There is a torx head plug on the side of the snout. The
level should be checked every 30k miles. The correct level is just to
the bottom of the plug threads.

Jon

complete thread is here:
http://groups.google.fi/groups?hl=f...91%24rs2.1424667%40client.news.psi.net&rnum=2

http://groups.google.fi/groups?hl=f...r=&selm=3421496C.1A67F35B%40lucent.com&rnum=3

and this conversation is for eaton m-90 ;)...that´s it for me..I´m satisfied :). If you want to use the expensive oils then do it :)...I will use 5w50 or similar fully synthetic motor oil and change it every year.

cheers, Msc.mech.eng. dude... ;)
 
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