What cam should i get?

x182dan

Registered User
First off I don't know much about duration,lift, exhaust, and intake numbers so could someone help me out. I am going to be getting Dr. Fred Stage One Heads. I would like the idle to be very noticeable not crazy lumpy but a little. Also what RPM range should I be looking for.
 
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x182dan said:
First off I don't know much about duration,lift, exhaust, and intake numbers so could someone help me out. I am going to be getting Dr. Fred Stage One Heads. I would like the idle to be very noticeable not crazy lumpy but a little. Also what RPM range should I be looking for.
Contact Brian Solomon, aka "catwithboost." He'll get you the best deal along with a really good cam. The cam I got from him is the 212/220 duration, .531/.539" lift on a 114 LSA. Thats a little bigger than the Dr. Fred cam and more than streetable.
 
Camshaft

For the cam that Cmac got is very streetable and will have a good rpm range from 2000 to 6000. I have larger cams also it all depends on what you are looking to get out of the motor and what all you have to back the cam up. For prices and more info on all other valve train parts contact me at camsunlimited@comcast.net
 
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Do you also sell valve springs to go with the cams. I have a Dr. Fred cam and people have told me that i will need stronger springs or do i?
 
Chad, you need comp cams #942 springs with your Dr. Fred .520 cam.. They use the stock seats and are available through summit racing at an affordable price.

Just install them as you would the stock spring, and go, nothing special..

I've had mine up to 7,000 rpm (ooops.. :) ) accidentally a few times while missing a shift and they are holding up great.

Jeramie
 
Make sure you get a new cam and not a regrind..OK!!!

Lots of peole are running big power on regrinds with no problems.. Now if you plan on going with uber big lift, then a true core is a better way to go.. But the average joe with their .520 ish cam should be more than fine.. Besides, they are half the cost of a true core..
 
The only thing that is wrong with regrinds is that the base circle is worn down so you need a longer pushrod and you can get an lsa above 112. So really there isnt anything wrong with a regrind at all.
 
cam

CMac89 said:
The only thing that is wrong with regrinds is that the base circle is worn down so you need a longer pushrod and you can get an lsa above 112. So really there isnt anything wrong with a regrind at all.
I can do all the way to 540 lift and still keep the 114lsa with the regrind.
 
if you get Comp 942 springs, are these a dirrect bolt on, or do you need machining of the seats, cup, or retainers to get the correct installed seat pressure, ect ect?
 
spring

fastsc92 said:
if you get Comp 942 springs, are these a dirrect bolt on, or do you need machining of the seats, cup, or retainers to get the correct installed seat pressure, ect ect?
I use comp 986 they are better and are a direct fit. Aslo just a couple dollars more.
 
It looks like the 986's are a little weaker than the 942's.....they also have a smaller ID. Will both of these sets work with stock retainers and spring cups?
 
Here we go..First of all if he can get the Fred cam go for it..And you dont need to chaneg any springs on those heads being its set up for teh cam

About regrinds to do it right

Problems associated is getting a good core..
Preferably an 89(try finding one). Say $50
New Pushrods..Yah you have to figure the proper lenght $50
Regrind....Hell Ill be cheap.... $150
Modify timing chain to properly degree camdegree.... $$$???
Degreeing cam...Do you know how or have equipment to do so????
Shipping if your core to teh cam dude............$$$???

Ok so you dont think you have to degree a cam....Ok...

You dont feel there is a possability that the cam hardness can become to thin and flake off causing all sorts of problems..Oh it happens..The main reason you want an 89 core is because it has the most material to work with. EVen with a not so big cam..But yer not worried about that


The cheapest you will get a regrind in my opinion in total is $250...Maybe more. Thats for a used cam with minimal lobe hardness...And no warranty it will hold up..Of course many will say IT HELD UP FOR ME..Yah..

Or you can spend an extra 100 and save many hours of time and frustration and get a MUCH better cam suited for whatever your needs may be.

When ther eis no option..Yeah a regrind..WHen you have the option...I think its foolish
 
I don't disagree.. Wish the true cores were available when I did my motor, but that was 4 years ago now..

He can't use stock springs with a .520 cam.. If he bought the stage I package from Fred, then the heads should already have comp cams 942 springs in them.
 
Cams

I edited this. Ok If you want to talk prices contact me. My prices are cheaper then was posted by someone that does not no me. I have done bussiness with this company for 18years.
 
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