Still waiting for IC parts, so I did this....(Pics)

fastsc92

Registered User
I've been waiting on parts for my IC project so i figured I'd waste some time. I decided to polished my raised top that i made. Tell me what you think. I hope it'll look good with all polished tubes and blue couplers. I went from this:

finished2.jpg


To this:

DSC01533.jpg

DSC01531.jpg

DSC01530.jpg
 
It does look very nice. I have to give respect to those who polish parts because that is one thing I do not/can not do. Nice job.
 
Nice!

Damnn! That looks good. What did you use to do it. It should look real good the the tubes and blue couplers.
 
I have my little tricks here and there. I polished my rims and engine parts ( i'm sure you guys have seen pics...). I use emory paper and wetsand paper, them some steel wool and rouge and them some polish. Takes a long time since its all done by hand and not machine, but I like the outcome. I cant wait to get those polished IC tubes on there and see how it all comes together...... :cool:
 
fastsc92 said:
I've been waiting on parts for my IC project so i figured I'd waste some time. I decided to polished my raised top that i made. Tell me what you think. I hope it'll look good with all polished tubes and blue couplers. I went from this:

finished2.jpg


To this:

DSC01533.jpg

DSC01531.jpg

DSC01530.jpg

you made that top?
 
Ya i made that last year. I just made an Autocad drawing of the spacer, then I used a CNC to cut it out and welded that on my stock top, and made a new peice for the throat. If you're interested...here are the construction pics from last year....everyone loves pictures :cool:
top3.jpg

top2.jpg

top5.jpg

top4.jpg

top1.jpg

top.jpg

100_0220.jpg

100_0219.jpg

100_0218.jpg

100_0221.jpg

100_0222.jpg

bottom.jpg

100_0224.jpg

Throat.jpg
 
Just My Two Cent,s

;) IF YOU CUT THE THROAT DOWN MORE ON THE SPACER .. :eek: ABOUT 1/8 TO3/32 YOU GAIN EVEN MORE FLOW :D ....BUT IT LOOKS GOOD JUST THE WAY IS :cool:
 
I like your polished top very much! I have to do that for my own top also... :)

How long it took before it shines like that? Could you give good instructions...?! ;)
 
Just a lot of sanding. I use emory paper in 3 grits, then I wetsand 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, then I use some super fine steel wool, then some rouge on a cotton wheel, then some Blue Magic Polish. No rush, otherwise you'll get a dull look. This top took me about 3-4 hours because it'll all done by hand. The top is very very pitted, so expect to spend even longer to get all the casting marks out.
 
fastsc92 said:
Just a lot of sanding. I use emory paper in 3 grits, then I wetsand 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, then I use some super fine steel wool, then some rouge on a cotton wheel, then some Blue Magic Polish. No rush, otherwise you'll get a dull look. This top took me about 3-4 hours because it'll all done by hand. The top is very very pitted, so expect to spend even longer to get all the casting marks out.

Ok... When I'll get my raised top I'm gonna do it!

Thanks!! :)
 
I'm doing a short block rebuild and am thinking of polishing everything aluminum, and painting the rest. What about using a drimel tool or a polishing wheel on a bench grinder? And, what did you do about the paint on the unit before you polished it?

Alan
 
I'll save the pics for a little later. Working on my front mount set-up with all aluminum tubing which will also be polished. I'll post the final pics when everything is done. I'm expecting it to be done by the middle to end of the week ( 10th-13th).
 
For the guy who wants a decent polish with the least amount of work here is the poor mans way to do it.

First, remove all paint from the piece you are working with. For most painted finishes like the IC, tubes and top...use aircraft paint stripper. You can buy it in an aerosol can at Autozone. I usually take the piece I'm working with up to the car wash. Place it on the ground, hose it down with the stripper, let it bubble and then powerwash the paint off. Don't inhale the fumes or get it on you as it'll burn.

Take the piece home, clean it good, then get ready for sanding. Start with the grittiest paper you can find....probably 80 grit. You will do 80% of your work with this paper especially if you are sanding something very pitted like the IC, IC tubes, and top.

Keep sanding until you get all the pits out. This is the most important part to getting a nice finish....remove as many pits as you can. Once you get it to an acceptable point, then move up to 220 grit. All you are doing now is replacing the 80 grit scratches with 220 grit scratches. It won't take you that much time to go over the piece and reduce the scratches to the 220 level. Then move up to 320 and repeat.

It is easier to go to 400, then 600. BUT, I have been known to skip from 320 to 600. You just end up spending more time with the 600 so there is no time savings, just a phsycological savings by going to your final grade.

Once you work the piece to the 600 stage, it should already be shining pretty nicely. Then go over it a few times with Neverdull. When you wipe it off....work the piece very quickly to generate some heat in the process. It should shine good.

YOU NEED to get up to the 500 grit level to get any kind of decent shine from the piece. YOu don't need to go up to 1000 and use tripole or rouge with buffs. That is the route you go for a chrome like luster....and it will dull down pretty quickly so I don't really see the point in finishing to that high of a luster.

So again, chemically strip, sand with 80, 220, 320, 400 (maybe skip this step), 600, use neverdull. That's the bare minimum to getting a decent, low level...but acceptable polished finish. Anything less than this and your piece will look like cement and no one will be impressed.

If you want to kick it up a notch.....use a spiral sewn buff and tripole compound. This gets you to the next level of luster...but requires the purchase of a buffer.

Micah

P.S. Wet sand when possible. I tear off a 3 X 5 piece of paper, dip it into a moose cup full of water and start sanding. I usually sit out on the deck with a nasty towel in my lap and hold the piece that I"m working with. Just keep dunking the paper into the cup. Then throw the piece away when it's spent. The towel catches most of the water and keeps your lap relatively dry. Be prepared for sore, blistered nasty fingers. Anyway, wet sanding keeps the paper from clogging and extends the life a little longer.

Also, work away from stuff you care about. That aluminum dust gets airborne and will settle on stuff like...your SC. So I have my garage totally shut and sit out in the back yard in my old clothes in an old chair with an old towel, etc.... old moose cup. Everything will get nasty. You don't need a mask, but you'll be spitting and snotting black stuff. It's far easier to do your work outside than to clean all the aluminum off your tools, hood, and other stuff you care about in the garage.
 
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