Tranny is out

Dahoopd

Registered User
What next guys. Where is the best place to buy all of the parts needed. I am going to need clutch, pressureplate, throwout bearing, and flywheel, slave cylinder. Are there any other places to get all of the items at a decent price. I like SCP but its a tad pricey at this point. I would prefer to put a spek clutch in and skimp on the aluminum flywheeel. I wont have the money for the McCloed so stoc it will be. Is there antyhing I can do to the tranny other than that. I dont have the skills to rebuild the tranny myself. I would like to because i am sure the synchros have issues....Thanks
 
If you have the tranny out you should replace the syncros' also because you'll have to sooner or later and if you drive it with bad syncro's then you'll be replacing the tranny too.

I'd go with the cheapest parts you can find for now. There's no point having a badass clutch in there if the car is falling apart. Stock replacments are fine for even moderate performance applications.
 
Dave is correct, if your tranny is bad now, just waiting till later may cause more damage, and some parts for these trannys range from hard to find to gone like clear Pepsi. I purchaed my rebuild kit from Southern Gear (1-800-289-7432) in Atlanta and unless you have major problems now, it will have almost all the parts you need for a rebuild. The kit included the fiber blockers rings for 1-5 and brass for reverse. You will however, need to order the mainshaft (E8TZ-7B364-A) and countershaft (E8TZ-7N170-A) nuts as they are not included in the rebuild. Just make sure on the mainshaft they give you the one for the Tbird, as the F150's is a little larger (E8TZ-7B364-B).


There are many "How-to's" on the site detailing how to rebuild a M5R2, and after helping/watching get rebuilt last weekend, its a peice of cake. Just take your time and detail, either by picS or writing it down, what order stuff is on there and how they face.
 
You'll need some small diameter punches for the roll pins and to lift the indentation on the big shaft nuts. Use hardened steel punches. The ones I bought from Harbor Freight, I beat the crap out of them the 1st time I used them. You'll also need a hydraulic bench press to unpress/press the intermediate bearing on the output shaft or take it to a shop to do it for you. A big wooden dowel helps when seating the bearings. A metal chisel and hammer is useful, also. Otherwise, it's basically metric sockets, etc. Do a search on this site and find the article I wrote for Charging Thunder a few of years and posted a jpeg copy of a month or so ago on the tech bbs. It took me about 6 hours to do Tim's so plan on the whole day or 2 to do it.
 
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