Swapping info:
There are several differences between the two year models. Most notably in the DIS and EGR systems. Plus, the newer exhaust manifolds have slightly different exit paths on the passenger side.
I have not done this swap myself but here is all the stuff I have read over the years on this swap. Several have done it with success.
The easiest way to swap is to use all of the wiring harnesses from your old motor and the original PCM. You will also want to use the exhaust manifolds, A/C (jackshaft) bracket, DIS module, pulley/damper combo and crank sensor from you old engine. I’d use a new bolt as well on the damper. Some of the vacuum plumbing will be different on the new inlet plenum, but with a little work; you can get it all hooked up. You can also remove the EGR from the new inlet plenum and put on a block-off plate over the opening. Oh, yeah, I’d change the spark plugs (and maybe wires) while the motor is out of the car! LOL You could also put your early sized pulley on the new blower to make for about a 3% overdrive.
The new oil pan may not be tapped for the VMM oil temp/oil level sensor. You can tap the new pan, but it is probably easier just to swap pans. The pan does not have a gasket, just use silicone.
Other stuff to do to the newer motor would be to replace the rear main, front crank seal and possibly valve cover gaskets.
I have heard a couple of different things on the MAF and injectors, but everything should run OK if you use the new engine injectors, MAF and MAF electronics.