89 manual hangup between 1st&2nd

My 89 manual transmission hangs between 1st&2nd gear on a
power shift,any ideas....will the ripper shift help. Also,getting more
cooler air in to the supercharger. I have already removed air silencer
3" polish tube between MAF & T-BODY. thanks

What do you mean by the tranny hangs? Does it not go into gear when shifting it to second gear? Not powershifting it might fix the problem.

Shane

Wrong!!!!

quick35th said:

What do you mean by the tranny hangs? Does it not go into gear when shifting it to second gear? Not powershifting it might fix the problem.
Shane

Click to expand...

Not powershifting Won't fix the problem, any more than Not Driving the car will fix the problem.

I'm having the same problem with my car. New Spec Stage III clutch & alum. flywheel, & new slave cyclinder. It shifted GREAT for one season, now it hangs up between all gears. Mostly between 1st. & 2nd. though. I think it's the master cyclinder leaking fluid back past the piston. I've watched the PP & it doesn't move enough to fully disengage the clutch disk, even when the clutch is pushed to the floor. There are no external leaks, so it has to be leaking internally. I'm thinking that a new master cyclinder will fix the problem. Then you get to have all the fun of bleeding the cyclinder. The manual says to pump the clutch 10 times for every bleed. Repeat at Least 6 times, probably a lot more!!!! Have Fun!!!!!

68COUGAR

Speaking from my drag racing experience I know that failing blockers can cause this problem. Mine hadn't started to crunch last year and it decided to intermittently not speed to shift to 3rd. It kept getting worse until it wouldn't speed shift at all and began crunching on normal shifts, time for a rebuild. The 3rd gear blocker was indeed toasted. A friend asked me to run his one day and it too had wornout blockers. It wouldn't speed shift either and would only occasionally crunch on normal shifts. If the slave cyl won't pressurize or leaks at all you'll have fluid on the bottom of the bellhousing.

Usually the slave will bleed itself. If you read the Ford shop manual it will tell you to simply hold the clutch down for awhile and pump it repeatedly. It does actually work. I haven't cracked a bleeder screw in quite awhile.

As for hanging up between gears, usually that is caused by worn slider rings and/or bad blockers. If you've been powershifting and/or speed shifting most likely the teeth are all worn on the sliders and will never be "like new" again.

These transmissions will tolerate fast shifting if they are in good shape but they will not hold up to powershifting or poorly executed speed shifting.

Mark, remember the old tranny that I got off you for parts? The output shaft was completely shattered.

Hangup 1st&2nd

68COUGAR said:

Not powershifting Won't fix the problem, any more than Not Driving the car will fix the problem.

I'm having the same problem with my car. New Spec Stage III clutch & alum. flywheel, & new slave cyclinder. It shifted GREAT for one season, now it hangs up between all gears. Mostly between 1st. & 2nd. though. I think it's the master cyclinder leaking fluid back past the piston. I've watched the PP & it doesn't move enough to fully disengage the clutch disk, even when the clutch is pushed to the floor. There are no external leaks, so it has to be leaking internally. I'm thinking that a new master cyclinder will fix the problem. Then you get to have all the fun of bleeding the cyclinder. The manual says to pump the clutch 10 times for every bleed. Repeat at Least 6 times, probably a lot more!!!! Have Fun!!!!!

68OUGAR

Click to expand...

thanks for your reply; Something I did not mention in my thread
When first starting,everything cold,it shifts very smooth it has the
factory oil (MERCON XT-2-QDX) plus fords friction additive, it's when
the tranny is hot that the problem starts. jz89scbird

Mike Puckett said:

Speaking from my drag racing experience I know that failing blockers can cause this problem. Mine hadn't started to crunch last year and it decided to intermittently not speed to shift to 3rd. It kept getting worse until it wouldn't speed shift at all and began crunching on normal shifts, time for a rebuild. The 3rd gear blocker was indeed toasted. A friend asked me to run his one day and it too had wornout blockers. It wouldn't speed shift either and would only occasionally crunch on normal shifts. If the slave cyl won't pressurize or leaks at all you'll have fluid on the bottom of the bellhousing.

Click to expand...

thanks for your reply; Something I did not mention in my thread
When first starting,everything cold,it shifts very smooth it has the
factory oil (MERCON XT-2-QDX) plus fords friction additive, it's when
the tranny is hot that the problem starts. jz89scbird

Re: Shattered

XR7 Dave said:

Mark, remember the old tranny that I got off you for parts? The output shaft was completely shattered.

Click to expand...

Holy Schitt!!!!!! That happend on the expressway @ 90 mph, easy shift into 4th or 5th. No speed shifting or power shifting. Was anything salvageable in that tranny?

68COUGAR

ressurecting this post. ive noticed this happening on my 89 5sp.

another part of the problem ive noticed is that the clutch never actually disengages, may be part of a different problem but ill give you an example. when the car is in neutral running obviously the car does not move, but when im stopped, in gear, foot on the clutch and off the brake the car creeps forward as if the friction disc is touching just enough to roll the transmission.

shifting is notchy in all gears majority of the time, and the symptoms seem to be worse with humidity. any ideas?

im thinking about pulling the trans and doing a rebuild this winter because of this but if i dont have to, obviously i dont want to spend the money. if this is just a clutch issue, like broken pressure plate fingers or something then obviously id prefer just replacing the clutch kit.

4Well, the clutching action all happens infront of the trans (but inside the bellhousing), they are independent systems (grar changes and clutching actuation).

Make sure the clutch fluid is full, and the clutch is bled properly. Its pretty simple. Basically, open the bleeder fitting (located just over the inlet tube on driver's side) and close it. Gravity should do the work, but if you feel like. Pumping the pedal too, like when bleeding brakes, go ahead a do that dance with a friend.

Next, look inside the trans through that inspection hole that's covered by a piece of rubber on the driver's side and watch the action while someone presses down on the clutch pedal. Look for any leaks from the throw out bearing, you slave cylinder could have failed, and isn't capable of building enough pressure to fully depress the fingers on the pressure plate.

While your at in, stick your head up under the dash and inspect where the clutch pedal connects to the clutch master cylinder. Mine just broke on the freeway.