Knock Sensor Location & Other problems...

I tried to find where the knock sensor is, I got a replacement, But I cant seem to find it...

I have a 92 SC manual.


Just to reiterate some stuff maybe you guys can help me with.. the car bucks like crazy under boost, and seems sluggish.... when it bucks the TACH dies and the check engine light comes on.


The codes are
113- Intake air temp signal high
179/188 Cruise lean limit, bank 1/2 still rich
212- No tach input to processor.

Guys PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE help me.!

Billabong089 said:

I tried to find where the knock sensor is, I got a replacement, But I cant seem to find it...

Click to expand...

It's on the passenger's side of the engine directly in front of the starter. You have to get to it from under the car.

Location as given is pretty good but doubtful the replacment with a new sensor is going to solve your problem. What makes you think otherwise?

In order to provide you any real help I need to know what mods you have, a complete symptom listing (does it happen both cold and warm) and all the other variables as well.

My brother works at a shop, and he hooked my car up to their scanner, and during the self test, the only codes it got we're an o2 sensor code, and a no signal from the knock sensor, the scanner showed that the first o2 sensor is a little wacky, its not switching fast but after driving it starts to function normally, however there is no knock signal which could very likely be a bad sensor causing the bucking.

As far as when it happens, the car was tested at normal operating temp, my bro and the mechanics beleive its a knock sensor, gotta take it one step at a time. What else do you need to know that can help, i'll ask my brother.

Also is it normal for the fuel pump to prime 2 or 3 times when the key is on engine off, my brother noticed during the scanner test, that it would do that.

Well....the ONLY function of the knock sensor is to "generate" a signal when it senses a specific frquency of vibrations existing. The EEC then pulls timing from the ignition until the "knock" stops. Do you know the KOER test was run properly? Was the throttle goosed (full throttle) when required? I would tend to think you are going lean for a reason to be determined and the knock senor may or may not be pulling enough timing to overcome the REAL knock you are getting from running lean.

Yes, the pedal was snapped during the test, isn't it possible that the knock sensor is bad and is causing it to mistakenly pull the timing, well I guess theres one way to find out anyway, My brother got a new sensor thru his work so it wasn't too much anyway, Ill put that in tomorrow and go from there, if that doesn't work, I'll get a fuel pressure guage. On a side not to see if it was just occured during boost, I took the blower belt off and at exactly 4k the motor dies, loses all power like a rev limiter is being kicked in, but it doesn't buck violently like it does when it does it in boost, the pedal can be floored and it will not go over 4k.

Billabong089 said:

so what do you suggest that I do? How can I figure this thing out lol...

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Change the PLUG WIRES !! that , i think should clear up the bucking. does it idle ok and drive ok under vaccum? if it does then it is probably the plug wires. just my .02 cents

Plugs and Wires are new.... Taylor wires and Autolite Double Plats.

Well...if it were my car these are the things I would be checking.

1) Verify the harmonic damper is not broken (If you see any wobbling of the crank pulley with the engine running bingo....broken damper)
2) Check all IC Tube Connections are tight particularly at the IC tube connections (Nuts tend to loosen on the studs)
3) Spray starting fluid at the IC Tube connections with the engine running and see if the RPM goes up (If so bingo..you got leaks)
4) Check MAF Sensor wires clean as well as MAF Sensor electrical connector clean and has dieletric grease in the connector.
5) Check all vac. hoses are connected and in good shape.
6) Make sure the PCV hose connector to the Intake Tube is connected tight.
7) Make sure the IAC and TPS Sensor connections (Screws) are tight.

Once you check all that get back on if you don't find a problem in the list.

Went back and checked your original post.

New #1 thing to check....ACT Sensor connection is properly made up. If so change the ACT. High Inlet Temp pulls timing too. Also you may have a bad DIS Module given you are loosing the tach signal.

Ok thanks, appreciate it, Ill check all that stuff tommorrow, the Dampner is new... BHJ balancer...