cutting out under acceleration

kpatton

Registered User
I'm becomming stumped. I had the clasic problems of bucking, so in Feb changed out my cam sensor while changing out a busted motor mount, plus wires and plugs. Motorcraft on both. Ok a few weeks ago the bucking was back. Wierd, changed out cam sensor again. This one lasted 24 hrs and out yet again.. Found a place to test my DIS, thinking something must be taking these out. Sure enough, tested bad. Replaced DIS. Guess what I am having it sometimes cut out on acceleration, not even hard accel. Surely it can't be yet another cam senson that would be 3 in less than 3 months..When it cut out the tach does jump but only about what I would expect ( jerk about 1 " or so ) One more thing, the oil pressure guage ( smart light ) is acting different. It had always stayed in 1 position, now it moves and sometimes normal sometimes 1/2 of what it had always been. Next steps, my thoughts are maybe I have an alternator problem, 1 diode out causing power fluctuations? Or maybe the crank sensor. Anyone have any ideas? thanks
 
continued woes..

Ok, I thought I would take the easy way first. I got yet another cam sensor.
Changed it out, then started it up. The car started rough then the tach went to zero. restarted and tach is still zero.. Great, this one lasted approx 10 seconds. Am I getting a batch of bad sensors or is something taking these out?
What could possibly be taking these out?
Help!!

-thanks
 
I think you have a vaccuum leak... next time the bucking occurs, unplug the cam sensor, restart and drive on. It will take multiple tries to get it started, and you'll have no tach, but at least it will tell you if the cam sensor is at the root of the problem. Oh, and thats key-off between tries. :D
 
camshaft sensor diagnostics

Oh wise ones,

Please correct me if I am wrong.. the camshaft sensor is a simple hall-effect senor, not an ac type..

If so, it needs a reference voltage to function properly, does anyone know what the proper voltage should be? As well as which terminal is actually the input voltage and what is the sense terminals..

thanks,
keith
 
I'm definately no expert, but I always buy from Ford. It's not that it can't go wrong, but more times than not, the part from the aftermarket doesn't hold out as good or as long. At least from what I've read here over a few years. Also, could the "cam shaft housing" be out of whack? Might want to check to see if it's in alignment. There's a tool or something for that and maybe someone else will chime in about that. My .02.
 
continueing saga....

Well my blue bird died.. :( ..and has a real problem starting, and more trying to run.. I have a strong gas smell... :rolleyes: OK, fuel problem, I put a fuel pressure guage on it and I get about 25psi.. way too low... This leaves fuel pump or regulator, This coupled with the strong gas smell, I'm betting on regulator. Being the royal pain to replace ( as with nearly everything on this car ), can anyone confirm my conclusion? I read that you can take off the hose and check for gas in the diaphram.. ( probably the gas smell being fed directly in ), however I can't get to it.. Any tricks to get to this ?
 
Not that it couldn't be the "regulator" and I never measured my fuel pressure, but the strong gas smell would tell me to take the car out and while idling, look under the car right in front of the right rear tire and tell me if you see any dripping/seeping. I had this and my fuel lines had a hole from rubbing the frame.
 
When you replaced the DIS Module did you add the Heatsink Grease to the backside of it? If not goto Radio Shack and purchase the Heatsink grease and apply it to the back side of the module then reinstall it and test the car.

Rich
 
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