Setting the timing during short block rebuild

A

AlanEdwards

Registered User
Is there anything I need to do special with setting the timing when putting it all together tomorrow? I've got a Ford factory manual for my '94 T-Bird SC, but I was wondering if there's anything you guys could suggest that might not be in the manual.

And if there is anything else (I already know about priming the oil pump before trying to start the engine) as far as tricks of the trade, that would help too. Take care.
 
AlanEdwards said:
Is there anything I need to do special with setting the timing when putting it all together tomorrow? I've got a Ford factory manual for my '94 T-Bird SC, but I was wondering if there's anything you guys could suggest that might not be in the manual.

And if there is anything else (I already know about priming the oil pump before trying to start the engine) as far as tricks of the trade, that would help too.
Click to expand...

Weekends can be tough to get the old boys and their answers. too much racing or wrenching going on.

How far apart did you have it. Did you pull the cam, did you degree it to make sure all is in order?

As far as I can recall from what I've seen posted all the years is just what the book says. Do you have a camshaft syncronizer tool? If not, this thread has info on how to eyeball the position of the sensor vane pretty dang close
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34530&highlight=align+cam+sensor


Here is what my book says:
1) Rotate the crankshaft until the No.1 cylinder is at TDC of the compress ion stroke and the TDC mark lines up with the timing mark. CAUTION: Do not turn the crankshaft or the camshaft during the removal and installation procedure or the fuel system timing will be out of time with the engine and possibly cause engine damage.

2)Install the special tool on the camshaft synchronizer by rotating the tool until it engages the notch in the camshaft synchronizer housing and the armature.

3)Install the camshaft synchronizer housing assembly so the arrow on the special tool is 38 degrees from the centerline of the engine. NOTE: During installation, the arrow on the special tool will rotate clockwise until oil pump intermediate shaft and camshaft gear engages.

4)Install the camshaft synchronizer bolt.
 
Mike8675309 said:
Weekends can be tough to get the old boys and their answers. too much racing or wrenching going on.

How far apart did you have it. Did you pull the cam, did you degree it to make sure all is in order?

As far as I can recall from what I've seen posted all the years is just what the book says. Do you have a camshaft syncronizer tool? If not, this thread has info on how to eyeball the position of the sensor vane pretty dang close
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34530&highlight=align+cam+sensor


Here is what my book says:
1) Rotate the crankshaft until the No.1 cylinder is at TDC of the compress ion stroke and the TDC mark lines up with the timing mark. CAUTION: Do not turn the crankshaft or the camshaft during the removal and installation procedure or the fuel system timing will be out of time with the engine and possibly cause engine damage.

2)Install the special tool on the camshaft synchronizer by rotating the tool until it engages the notch in the camshaft synchronizer housing and the armature.

3)Install the camshaft synchronizer housing assembly so the arrow on the special tool is 38 degrees from the centerline of the engine. NOTE: During installation, the arrow on the special tool will rotate clockwise until oil pump intermediate shaft and camshaft gear engages.

4)Install the camshaft synchronizer bolt.
Click to expand...


That's close but not entirely correct.

Set Number #1 to 26 degrees ATDC (after top dead center)

Arrow should be pointing aprox 30 degrees from the face of the motor. If using the tool mentioned above, the exact degrees don't really matter much because it will function correctly in any position you install it. 30 degrees just keeps the wires that plug into the sensor away from the belts. The key is to use the alignment tool to keep the vane positioned correctly with the sensor.

David
 
David Neibert said:
That's close but not entirely correct.

Set Number #1 to 26 degrees ATDC (after top dead center)

Arrow should be pointing aprox 30 degrees from the face of the motor. If using the tool mentioned above, the exact degrees don't really matter much because it will function correctly in any position you install it. 30 degrees just keeps the wires that plug into the sensor away from the belts. The key is to use the alignment tool to keep the vane positioned correctly with the sensor.

David
Click to expand...

I just got done doing this, right on David. One more thing to note:
If you have a BHJ balancer, there is no mark on the balancer for 26 degrees ATDC (there are marks for BTDC). I cheated and took a piece of paper laid it on the balancer and then marked out 26 degrees. Then I took the piece of paper and transposed it to the other side then put a dot with white out for 26 ATDC. Also another thing to note, the black plastic that goes around the balancer has BTDC and ATDC written on it, don't go by the numbers on it for ATDC / BTDC (they are reversed). It threw me off and made me think hard and worry until the next morning when I could start the fire in her for the first time! Good luck, and have fun. I hope not to rip her down that far for a while.
At least until I get a FMIC to help make things go quicker in both aspects, speed and workability.
 
Thanks for the correction Dave. The book is wrong and I could have sworn it was different number than that.
 
Wow. I wasn't counting on that detailed of a response. Thanks much guys.

Are there any other tips regarding anything else with the engine? Another thing I'm doing is using Lubri-plate brand white grease for engine assembly. And, as far as priming the pump, the shop that I'm doing the work at has a engine oil prime pump that will actually prime the entire engine for me.

To answer Mike's question, I have the short block completely apart. I'm doing a short block rebuild. The heads seem to be fine, and they appear to have been reworked not long ago. I bought the car in October, and I spun 2 rod bearings not long ago, and FINALLY I've got all the parts I need to complete the job. Thanks again guys, very much! Any further advise would be appreciated as well.

Take care.
 
I had to do the same thing to my BHJ balancer when installing it to get a mark for 26 degrees ATDC and I discarded that plastic cover about 3 years ago.

I've always packed the oil pump gears with vasoline on my SC, but decided to do it right with the new motor I had built for the turbo car. I bought an oil pump priming tool like Alan is describing that uses an electric drill to spin the pump and prime the entire motor before startup.

It's just a pain in the a$$ to stab the cam sensor stalk when the motor is in the car.

David
 
Note that a guy clued me in on a priming tool available at the local hardware store. It seems tthat a couple brands of caulk dispensers use a hexigonal shaft. For about 1.09 you can pick one up and take it apart to use the shaft chucked in a drill to prime it.t
 
Check out that thread I linked to as well. It has a picture and a further little hint on proper positioning of the sensor once you have the motor set to the right position.

Eyeballing it can work pretty well as that sensor doesn't need to be as precise. But if you have time, certainly getting the correct tool is nice.
 
A little help. the BHJ is not marked jsut the lines, no reference as to where TDC is. I no longer have the housing or old damper. Any ideas to id the location?
 
A little help. the BHJ is not marked just the degree lines, no reference as to where TDC is. I no longer have the housing or old damper. Any ideas to id the locationof TDC?
 
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