View Full Version : any tips or hints on HG replacement

06-21-2005, 09:32 PM
Well Im not 100% sure there gone but I figure ive got some time and it may be bad so why not. Does anyone have any tips orhint on a 90 SC. Its mainly stock and this is just to get it back on the road again. Ill upgrade stuff later.

Its got 80k on it. Should I have the heads resurfaced even though Im not getting the block done?

Is the FoMoCo SC seal kit the best way to go as far as that?

My snout seal leaks some Im thinking of doing that if its not too involved and pricey. After all Ive got the time since Im not working right now.

My timing cover leaks also I shou;ld do this also right. Is it too awful impossible to do in the car? The heads and intake will be off anyway.

Oh lets see ant other recommendations. Im thinking felpros but if theres say sop on stock bottom end I may go with those aftermarket ones that arent cometics. I forget the name.

Oh and if theres anyone in the Marysville area that has some free time let me know. Ive got probably most of the tools but with everything else on the car Ive always had to get something special to do something.

06-22-2005, 07:46 AM
A couple of very important tips.....

LABEL EVERYTHING!!!!! I've read too many "where does this go" questions from folks that didn't bother labeling anything :eek: .

TAKE YOUR TIME!!!! Be patient and don't rush anything... If you feel your getting frustrated step away and have a beer or something ;)

DON'T REEF ON ANYTHING!!! When your dealing with a stubborn bolt (will be most of them) don't jump on it with a 20 foot breaker bar... use the proper tools and gradually increase the force on it till the bolt starts moving, this way you won't break anything (if it breaks it was bound to go anyway)

Use good tools that fit properly. In my case all the bolts where metric so I used metric tools, and if I didn't have the right size, I bought the right size. Also use 6 point sockets.

I used the felpro gasket set and arp head studs. The head bolts your car has are Torque to yield bolts so DON'T USE THEM AGAIN... throw them out and either get the arp studs or new OEM TTY bolts from ford.

One of the best tips I read on here was torqueing down the intake manifold.... The writer had suggested to keep going back every 5 to 10 minutes and retorqueing the bolts down until they stay torqued. I had to do this about 9 times (you will be surprised how loose those bolts are after the first torque down :eek: ) just to get the bolts to stay at torque... and now I know for sure I don't have any leaks there :D .

Most importantly..... HAVE FUN DOING IT :D , and if your unsure about something, ask here.. most of us have been through it ;).

BTW, my car started on the first attempt and within about 10 minutes was running beautifully, so yes... patience is a virtue.