Relocate A/C condenser

sail7seas

Registered User
I would like explore relocating the A/C condenser. The existing is about 14" x 24".

Maybe relocating it laying flat behind the front spoiler?
Or how about substituting it for the splash shield? (looks like 14 x 22.5 will fit)

Then maybe louvers for protection, and a puller fan to come on below 45 mph.

Using a ACKITS.COM parallel condenser below:
http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=01&Category_Code=Parallel
(Parallel Flow condensers are approximately 1/3rd more efficient than a standard OEM Tube & Fin condenser.)
 
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>This is the condenser that Ford should have put on the SC! It is a 3-tube unit that is about 9” shorter than the stock unit and allows for full air flow to the intercooler. <

I have a MP FMIC not a Ford IC.

I can cruise in 90 degree weather all day at 80 mph, and the temp gauge will stay at 'N'
But once I turn on the A/C the temp slowly goes up to M.
This heat from the condenser must also be going into the MP FMIC and heat soaking it.
Though a 9" opening would helpful a even larger gap (relocate condenser) would help the FMIC even more. (and help engine temp)

.
 
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A true FMIC would work a lot better than a sandwhich mount IC in helping airflow to the radiator. Such as the #1 Micahdogg design.
 
Horizontal Condenser

Well here it is happy SCer's, it only took me 13 months:) checkout the pics.
Car now runs at 180 F with the A/C on a humid 90F+ air temp day :cool:

At 65 mph on the highway IR gun shot at vent said 45 F.
In traffic IR vent shot read 55 F.
Stopped read 65 F.

I believe the A/C is overcharged for the following reasons.
(the reason for poor performance at slower speeds)

1. When I got home the condenser 'fans' were not running. This is a mystery to me as they were directly connected to the 'low speed' fan wire. (perhaps poor connection, but i tested it?)

2. The compressor was cycling on and off from the newly install high pressure switch protecting the system since the condener fans where not working. I was reading over at www.ackits.com forum if you charge the system with the condenser fans not working you will run the risk of overcharging the system.

3. The compressor eventually 'STALLS/stops' the engine after a while with the car at rest/idle, the compressor cycling every 3-5 seconds with the condenser fans now running. I say overcharged.

4. The way I wired it the low speed fan should have engaged the condenser fans when the A/C button is pushed. I wired the condenser fans directly to the Low speed fan wire. The delta current control runs the single speed fan wth the High speed fan wire atttached for back up.

5. So I rewired it so the low speed fan wire now turns on the A/C wire on the delta current control which turns on both engine fan and condenser fans. High speed fan wire for back up to engine fan.

The high pressure switch is on at tee on the high pressure side and wired next to the plug at the compressor. see pic.

So tomorrow I am going to A/C place and let out some gas/pressure.


ps. the manager on the phone asked the techy if the condenser fans where working when he did the install and techy said yes. :confused:

.
 

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Hi Chris,
I think you got it...after 13 months of working at this. First the DC control which works good....that was a good find and a good start. Then you made some adjustments but still were not satisfied, but did not give up...Good!!! This sounds and looks good.....

Well here it is, it only took me 13 months check out the pics.
Car now runs at 180 F with the A/C on at 90+ air temp.

At 65 on the highway IR gun shoot at vent said 45 F.
In traffic IR vent shot read 55 F.
Stopped read 65 F.


It took Benjamin Franklin 10,000 experiments to get the light bulb to work properly. Now G.E. brings good things to life :rolleyes: as the commercial goes... I think you,re ahead with your perseverance.

I like it and I feel it will work fine! I think you got something here. I will give you a holler and pick your brain plus other things I have to pass by you. I have been meaning to write you. I have been busy with other things that could not wait. So I have been taking care of those things and will be for a few more days only I hope... Call me or I will call you. I knew you would not give up. It looks like I maybe trying this out. I'll talk with you soon! Thanks for sharing this with us all.....
Take care!
Regards,
Victor......
PS Thanks for all the links and references. You too George.
 
Outstanding! What a great fix for those of us with the FMIC sandwiched in there like that.

So, pictures, how to's and parts lists, man. I need my AC at those outside temps too!!

Ira
 
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I would think it be safer if you used relays to power the fans for the condensor. So tap into the low speed wire, like you have, but take THAT to a relay, that will direct power through a fuse of course from the battery to the 2 fans on your condensor.

Good idea though.

Frit
 
That is basicaly what I have done in item 5 above. The delta currrent control acts as a relay and is wired directly to the battery with a fusible link. I'll write more info once I've solved the compressor four second cycling problem, later today.
(I think the 'high pressure switch' breaking the circuit to the compressor, is turning off the condenser fans with the engine temp below required temp to turn on LS fan wire.)
 
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Ended up being a faulty 'high pressure' switch cycling the pressure between 250psi and 200psi every 4 seconds.
With new HP switch, the IR gun showed 35F highway, and 45-50F city. The installer was shooting for a High pressure of around 300psi with 95 ambient temperture.
He said switch now cycles up to 305F, with new pressure switch. (results in some cycling, but to early to tell)

I have been told by installer and Jack at ackits.com that these HP switches do get out of calibration. Jack recommended looking at a Toyota HP switch which should have the same 1/4 ntp thread.

Phase II is change out 6" fan to second 10" with a shroud. And get an new HP switch.

So far so cool.:cool:

condenser size 22.5" x 12" http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=01&Category_Code=Parallel
 
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sail7seas said:
I would like explore relocating the A/C condenser.


How about relocating it like this guy did.

ac1.jpg
 
Roadhawg said:
How about relocating it like this guy did.

ac1.jpg



That's really Funny.... I have a person that has been asking me how he could relocate his AC. I think I will send him this picture :D Then send the complete thread which IMO is a set up and I am pretty sure it will work as Chris explains. Chris has always impressed me with his ideas. He has done a lot if work on his SC. He is a true SC enthusiast let's give him any ideas we can to help him if we can. He doesn't quit when he is on to something he is very smart and very technical. A nice guy to boot.

I would like to meet the guy who put this AC/generator system together on this car. I would just like to know what made him do it. I am sure he had a good reason for it. Who knows?? I laugh wondering why! Thanks for the picture and laugh!!! Let's keep this thread going. I feel Chris has something going on that would help many of us with our front mount I/C. Chris also has a reason for taking the time to make this work and sharing it with us.

The Heat wave continues thought the country....Not good!!! (Green House) Or a Natural Cycle.? Nothing natural about the weather the country/ or the world has been experiencing for the past 5 years or so.! We need cold AC's and Sc's more than ever....Everyone stay C@@L :cool:
 
Finally, I found it again. I saw this a long time ago and wondered how it came out. I have to know, are you running 12 or 134 at >40? You show going down the highway and that is pretty cool. I can get in the 40s at speed with 134 but its high 40s and no better. What all did you change in the system other than the hp switch, the hoses, and the condencer? What color tube are you running at the oriface? How is it connected to the system with the flex lines coming from the condencer there? How much capicity did you add to the system by this swap? And for the final question, how much did your inlet temps drop, and how much cooler is the engine running with that out of the way?

Chris
 
Horizontal Condenser

I had my system converted to 134a say 5 years ago, I do not know what they did but it has worked flawlessly. I do not know the color of my orifice, and not about to ask anyone, either.:D
The condenser is a universal parallel flow condenser which is 33 percent more efficient than the serpentine OEM condenser. I took the car to Auto Cool and they depressurized the system. I then removed the FMIC, radiator, condenser, reinstalled FMIC, radiator, dremel opening in bottom bumper, PF condenser with fans, and went to Auto Cool to connect it up. (total five trips to Auto Cool, you want to do what? well let's do this and that, get this part...)

Auto Cool used two(2) quick connect that attaches to where the OEM condenser was connected, and this was then connected to crimped barrier hose which went to the PF condenser. Barrier hose has high pressure crimp fittings at both ends and is rated not to leak, apparently R12 hose leaks. When you compare the two condensers, duh, it is going to be less capacity. OEM capacity is 40 oz; I think they said something like 24-28 oz now. Here we used a maximum design high side pressure of 300psi. This is why the high side switch is so important to work correctly.

Very important (From LENZ in attachment is HS switch FJC 3245 using FJC 2639 as tee to HS inlet)
As the HP switch from Auto Cool was defective. Also wire condenser fans correctly, which I did not do the fourth time at Auto Cool.

This condenser just rocks on the highway cooler than OEM, because of RAM air. In stop and go traffic about the same as OEM.

What did it do to engine temp? On a hot humid 95F+ day NOT running the A/C (with condenser blockage) driving moderately the temp gage approaching ‘M’ and climbing, I had to curb my style and baby it, and pray it does not go past ‘M’ and then inspiration turned on the heater w/ high fan and that helped stabilize temp and peace of mind.:p

With mod in humid 95F+ no matter hard I drive the gage stops on ‘O’ with A/C on. In 85F weather we had today, it stopped before ‘N’. The difference was from babying it with no A/C and possibly loosing a H.gasket TO driving like an idiot with the A/C on. Now the faster I go the cooler the A/C gets (ram air), with NO effect on engine temperature. :cool:

From memory I recall a laser reading of around 160F on the top of MP FMIC (heatsoak from A/C?). I laser thermed it on the first day of the swap, and it was 120F on a 100F day. Yesterday, I shot the front fins of the FMIC and it was 90F on an 80F day.

I think to fine tune this mod, and slightly lower high pressure side for city driving, I would get the longer 12 in parallel flow condenser at 26.5 in (I used 22.5in) from www.ackits.com I did not do this because I was concerned about engine temp, which as I have found out is no longer a concern.

See attachment for parts list.
 

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So....how exactly is the condencer attached to your bumper cover now? I would really like to see some more pix of this. Espically the hoses and the way they are connected.

Chris
 
Please look again at pics from post#4.
The second pic kind of shows the fittings at the condenser.
The fourth picture shows the Barrier hose crimp fittings connected to OEM quick connects where OEM condenser was connected.
Pic four also shows the HP switch and tee.
You can see air silencer in pic one.

There is a special high pressure crimp fitting at the end of each barrier hose (see parts list post#15,pic 1)
The barrier hoses with corresponding fittings have to be professionally made unless you have the $500 tool to make the crimps?
However www.ackits.com has cheaper ones around $200.

It is just wedged in there, it is a very tight fit (fore & aft) at the fender side (chamfered corners).
The smaller fan just fits snug on the other side. Fans are bolted and ziptied to PF condenser
I could bolt condenser down, but did not see any need to it has now where to go.:confused:
The sheet metal in that compartment holds the 10" fan down so it does not bounce.
I had to pull the bumper cover down to get it all in, then bolt it up to fix.:cool:
 

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Chris, that is just awsome work, and you provided directions, pictures, arrows and decriptions for eveything. It doesn't get any better then this.
Great mod!

Ira
 
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