Horizontal Condenser
I had my system converted to 134a say 5 years ago, I do not know what they did but it has worked flawlessly. I do not know the color of my orifice, and not about to ask anyone, either.
The condenser is a universal parallel flow condenser which is 33 percent more efficient than the serpentine OEM condenser. I took the car to Auto Cool and they depressurized the system. I then removed the FMIC, radiator, condenser, reinstalled FMIC, radiator, dremel opening in bottom bumper, PF condenser with fans, and went to Auto Cool to connect it up. (total five trips to Auto Cool, you want to do what? well let's do this and that, get this part...)
Auto Cool used two(2) quick connect that attaches to where the OEM condenser was connected, and this was then connected to crimped barrier hose which went to the PF condenser. Barrier hose has high pressure crimp fittings at both ends and is rated not to leak, apparently R12 hose leaks. When you compare the two condensers, duh, it is going to be less capacity. OEM capacity is 40 oz; I think they said something like 24-28 oz now. Here we used a maximum design high side pressure of 300psi. This is why the high side switch is so important to work correctly.
Very important (From LENZ in attachment is HS switch FJC 3245 using FJC 2639 as tee to HS inlet)
As the HP switch from Auto Cool was defective. Also wire condenser fans correctly, which I did not do the fourth time at Auto Cool.
This condenser just rocks on the highway cooler than OEM, because of RAM air. In stop and go traffic about the same as OEM.
What did it do to engine temp? On a hot humid 95F+ day NOT running the A/C (with condenser blockage) driving moderately the temp gage approaching ‘M’ and climbing, I had to curb my style and baby it, and pray it does not go past ‘M’ and then inspiration turned on the heater w/ high fan and that helped stabilize temp and peace of mind.
With mod in humid 95F+ no matter hard I drive the gage stops on ‘O’ with A/C on. In 85F weather we had today, it stopped before ‘N’. The difference was from babying it with no A/C and possibly loosing a H.gasket TO driving like an idiot with the A/C on. Now the faster I go the cooler the A/C gets (ram air), with NO effect on engine temperature.
From memory I recall a laser reading of around 160F on the top of MP FMIC (heatsoak from A/C?). I laser thermed it on the first day of the swap, and it was 120F on a 100F day. Yesterday, I shot the front fins of the FMIC and it was 90F on an 80F day.
I think to fine tune this mod, and slightly lower high pressure side for city driving, I would get the longer 12 in parallel flow condenser at 26.5 in (I used 22.5in) from
www.ackits.com I did not do this because I was concerned about engine temp, which as I have found out is no longer a concern.
See attachment for parts list.