Need Help choosing the right TQ connverter

DirtySouthBird

DirtySouthBird

Registered User
Im going to be installing these parts on my 95' SC: Coy miller cam stg. 1 (493 lift) and a set of P&P w/3ang. valve jb., ported upper intake, Double Intercooler, 3:73 gears, Trans Go skt. and a 99-01 mustang tranny.. I have a few mods already on and they consist of (S-ported) S-Model, BT 5% OD, Mac Intake, and full exhaust.. Just w/these mods I got a 14.8, but im sure I can do better if I ICE it dwn.. I really need to know what stall I need to get in order to rip the streets.. I really would I appreciate all the coments and info.

Thanks,
fred
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't he want a 3.55 gear over a 3.73 with a 4R70W? Not 100% on that so thats why I'm asking.

I'd say do everything but the convertor, dyno your car, see where your torque peak is, and set the convertor to stall about 200-500 below the peak. Then you gotta see what its at on the highway as you would probably rather have the convertor not flashing on the highway cuz 1. it will suck for gas mileage, and 2. it will generate a lot of heat if its constantly slipping. So if you cruise at 70 and you are at 2600 rpm with the gears, I'd say go no higher than a 2400 stall.

Usually these cars like anywhere between a 2200-2400 rpm stall convertor.
 
I live dwn south of Tx's, like at the tip.. Theres only one dyno but they just started and I hear they are not that good in tunning.. Well I just want to get this thing out and about since I've had it parked for over 3mo.'s.. I read and read all the forums and just got tired and fustrated because I never found the correct info.. I kept finding info on stalls for stock parts and nothing for cam and head combos.. Well I read that a Marauder TQ would be good, I think I can get a 03' Marauder stall.. I also heard about a 2500 and then a 2800 stall would make the car a bat strait of hell.. I took a look at coy millers stuff and he's got a 2500 stall.. man its hard finding this kind of info..
thanks,
fred
 
If its only going to run down the 1/4 mile and then sit and cool you can run a higher stall, but if you want to keep it streetable get one that stalls below your normal highway cruising speed.

You will still need a big *** trans cooler like 40k gvw and then i'd put a pusher fan or two on it. Can't be too safe. Also a deep pan that holds more fluid helps cool the trans also. Get a trans temp gauge, I hear to keep it under 220 degrees for best life.
 
Search for DirtyD0g (I think) and PM him for his ideas. He makes custom converters that many people are happy with.
 
Scott Long said:
Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't he want a 3.55 gear over a 3.73 with a 4R70W? Not 100% on that so thats why I'm asking.

I'd say do everything but the convertor, dyno your car, see where your torque peak is, and set the convertor to stall about 200-500 below the peak. Then you gotta see what its at on the highway as you would probably rather have the convertor not flashing on the highway cuz 1. it will suck for gas mileage, and 2. it will generate a lot of heat if its constantly slipping. So if you cruise at 70 and you are at 2600 rpm with the gears, I'd say go no higher than a 2400 stall.

Usually these cars like anywhere between a 2200-2400 rpm stall convertor.
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Why would he want to go with a 3.55 gear? If he were going to do that he might as well not bother to change gears at all as it should already have 3.31 in it. You are right though that your stall speed needs to be less than your cruise RPM or you will generate to much heat and you will have a very hard time cooling the transmission. My 95 with 4R70W did 2.06 sixty foot time and ran 14.30's with nothing more than 10% pulley and exhuast on Bridgestone all season tires. I would say go with the least stall you can that will still allow the car to idle in gear without jerking the car around while sitting at a stop light .
 
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