Any help using a EEC-IV Tuner from MN12 Performance?

KocaPuff

Registered User
Any help using a EEC-IV Tuner from MN12 Performance? The instructions are terrible.... Any would be greatly appreciated!
 
This seems like a good time to bug fastsc92 with the same questions...


If you remember, I asked you for some gudance on the EEC awhile back, and a little later for some guidance on the PLX datalogger....

Well I have the dash outta the car, finally, and am ready to start hooking things up.
(I now have some questions on what and hpow to wire the PLX datalogger stuff in as well)

I want to go ahead and start figuring out how to tune, ie, what paramaters I can change and why should I change them for what mods, etc... When I looked before, I found some info on what all the parameters were, but coudln;t find anything about why you would change what parameter...

Maybe all three of us can have an eec class...

Thanks professor fastsc92 :D
 
the info I know, and I'm not a pro at this either, is all in my head, and its too much to post and explain. Something like this is best suited for an over the phone conversation.
 
I'm up for anytime thats reasonable on the east coast. I have free min. on my cell after 9. Just get a list of question and/or print out a tune so that we can go through everything and take some notes.
 
Do you have tune from a stock SC?

Like I said, I've taken my dash out in prepration to swap in a 93 dash...

I thinka good metod would be to go over a stock tune, and then compare it with your current tune, and perhaps it will help clear up whay what was changed for your mods....

If you could possibly email me a tune or two, at sisemoremk@yahoo.com, I can print them out and have em ready to take notes.

Thanks for the help guy!

I will do my best to share all this info with anyone I can!!!
 
fastsc92 said:
I'm up for anytime thats reasonable on the east coast. I have free min. on my cell after 9.
You can also talk for free anytime computer to computer via SKYPE.
with a conference call maximum of 5 at a time.
Download free program from www.skype.com
 
fastsc92 said:
the info I know, and I'm not a pro at this either
Jay can barely figure out how to start his car with all that shiny crap under the hood, I wouldn't let him tune my lawnmower! :p
it's all in my head
ic4.jpg
j/k, be sure to post a list of your mods, climate and available pump gas octane if you decide you want him to write a file for you.

Paul
 
I can help also. I use the GUI software that goes threw the Tuner. I have some tuning using the SC tuner but both really suck compared to the GUI and the amount of parameters you can change. I have been tuning using the EEc-tuner for about 6 years now but have been out of it the last year. Im now starting to get into the SCT stuff and it is set up just like the GUI but with help notes (very nice)
I will list some things in the basic Tuner
WOT voltage = is simply the TPS voltage that will triger WOT (open loop )
Desired idle airflow in drive & neutral =If you changed your TB and now your car idles like crap you must change these so your car know how much air is now entering with throttle blade shut.
Dashpot = Changing this to 94 cobra specs helps bring your idle down after shifts and when costing (stick cars )
Exhaust pulse delay = all 10s if you are running LT headers. If using stock manifolds dont touch.
Most SCs i dynoed liked around 26-28' total timing. Also no reason to run more then 12.5 A/F Maybe 12 A/F at torque peek but thats it, after torque peek you can lean these things out. If you need to run super rich fuel mixtures something need adjusted or fixed. At torque peek(2500-3200) you might need to reduce timing and add a little fuel.
 
Could you send me (or post) the 94 specs for Dashpot? My car idles high between shifts and when coasting.
Also, what idle air flow would you recommend for an 85mm TB?

You said that most SCs like 26-28 degrees total timing. I am running mine at 30 degrees at WOT and I also changed the base spark table to be 30 at full load in the higher RPM ranges. It made a noticable difference in power from the 28 that I was running previously but I live in fear of knock. I think maybe I'll take it back down to 29 or 28.5 until I get water/alcohol injection or something to keep it safe.

dsly@detroit.faurecia.com
 
Nice comment Paul, I was waiting for someone to bust my b_lls....lol. Anyways, I'm not going to write any files for anyone, but rather just go over some information that I've picked up since I myself started. A lot of that information came from a respectable source..... ;)

From my experience, what people say works and what actually works are two different things. I've tried a bunch of different things to get my idle values correct such as using proven numbers for other people, but I haven't been too lucky using them in my own set-up. I find it best to use my wideband and start from scratch, however, I still have a decel idle issue thats not making the car that much fun to drive around town.

The car does haul @ss, and runs a near perfect ratio and great driveability, just that idle issue that has me stumped... :confused:

I find the best way to tune is to just do one thing at a time and only tune what is needed. There is no reason so start chaning the scaling of different tables, ect ect. Personally I changed all my WOT values, slightly changed my spark tables, MAF and displacment are scaled values, and the list goes on. One thing at a time allows you to understand a lot about the system. I do not claim to be a pro at this, and I often ask around for help since I have a lot to learn, however, I feel comfortable walking someone else through the basics with explanations. Since I do not claim to be a pro, that is why I'm not going to write files for anyone.
 
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fastsc92 said:
Nice comment Paul, I was waiting for someone to bust my b@lls....lol. Anyways, I'm not going to write any files for anyone, but rather just go over some information that I've picked up since I myself started. A lot of that information came from a respectable source..... ;)



Hey dude, I misspelled my dang email addy....

It is sizemoremk@yahoo.com whenever you're ready....
 
we'll have to plan for sometime tommorrow, been pretty busy on my car, got some new rims, tires, cross drilled rotors, motor mount mods, bushings, ...ect..ect that's been eating up my spare time from my new job. However, I can't complain too much about work, I get paid very well, doing what I love( proto-type design, testing and assembly), and it buy parts for the car....lol
 
Good to go!

I'll plan around when you can get to it then!

I want to learn how to do this, not have someone do it for me everytime i change a part...

It will also be cool to tweak things depending on weather etc, at the strip...

This is of course why I bought the PLX....

But I don't have the stock tune yet, and the car is in pieces... So if you could send a tune file first, I'd appreciate it....

Thank alot!!!
 
just need to know you computer code. and I feel kinda bad that we all hi-jacked KocaPuff's thread....sorry man, we're here to help you out too.
 
For proper idle if it is a aftermarket TB and im unsure its adjusted properly i turn the adjuster screw all the way out and then turn it back in till it just makes contact then one full turn. I make sure the TPS is around .98V after the TB adjustment. For this to work you really should have a good MAF curve already. Start car up and bring it up to temp, with no electrical load or A/C unplug IAC and measure MAF voltage at base idle (around 550rpm) If you idle is to low or high make sure there are no vaccum leaks, if running a big cam and need higher idle then stock adjust base idle (IAC unpluged) 150rpm below desired idel and abjust TPS. So lets say you got .8V at 550 RPM look up you MAF function and find out the kg/hr at that voltage. Now take (MAF V *2.2046226 / 60 =TB air flow or in another way .8V*21.999kg/hr*2.2046226 / 60 = .6466 This is what you would enter if you had THROTTLE BODY AIRFLOW This is in KG/Hr Tuner might use something else i dont know its been a LONG time since i used the base tuner. Its also almost 12:00 and im tired.
Now for desired idle airflow in neutral all you do is look in you tuner for the RPMs that is has listed usally 608-656-704-752-800-1008-1248-4080RPM what you do is set your NEUTRAL IDLE to those RPMs and read the Voltage at the MAF then look on the MAF function and look up the KG/Hr at the voltage do the same math as above and enter the new #s. The IAC can only contol idle up to about 2k RPM so dont bother with anything higher then that. Now idle should be good if you have a rock solid MAF curve. If you can data log you should have rock solid Idle timing around 14' if timing is swiging all over the place something is wrong.
 
This question is for BKB......

IF you read your MAF voltage, and look up the airflow at that voltage via the MAF curve, why do you need to do the math? The MAF curve is in kg/hr already and those numbers should plug right into your desired idle airflow values at any given RPM

For example, if at idle I'm logging .75volts and 800RPM, and that translates to 25kg/hr on the maf curve, then in my ISC table I would enter (800rpm, 25kg/hr). It should work that way. I believe the formula you listed is to convert CFM to kg/hr.
 
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