Unique Problem???

L.A.TBIRD

Registered User
Has any of you loyal TBIRD owners ever experienced your TACH jumping with the KOEO??? I have heard of it going crazy while the car is running but not while it just sitting there with the KOEO. I am asking this question because my car suddenly is having a crank but no start problem and i believe it is something electrical. So if anybody has had a similiar experience could you please post so maybe i can track down this bug.
 
It may be in the condensor (capacitor) on the Coil pack or a faulty cma sensor or related wiring.

Jeff
 
L.A.TBIRD said:
Has any of you loyal TBIRD owners ever experienced your TACH jumping with the KOEO??? I have heard of it going crazy while the car is running but not while it just sitting there with the KOEO. I am asking this question because my car suddenly is having a crank but no start problem and i believe it is something electrical. So if anybody has had a similiar experience could you please post so maybe i can track down this bug.

Could be a bad cam sensor...i dunno about while not running.... pull your codes look for 214..or could be a bad ignition switch...they go bad alot...
 
THe codes i am have been trying to figure out is 14,66,87,96 so far i have replaced camshaft sensor, fuel filter, and fuel pump but it still will not start and if it does it stalls almost immediately. Upshift light goes out and stays out as i am trying to start car so i don't think its the cranksensor but don't know? While under the car it did appear that the motor mounts maybe shot but i don't know if that would cause the car to stop starting when it has been running great. Actually it was kind of funny? You have always heard of people saying when a car hits 100,000 miles its shot. The day before my trouble starts the odometer hit 100K running strong with a fresh oil change WTF!!!
 
Hi everybody, well after putting in a new fuel pump. I am still trying to track down my no start problem. I have concluded that it is some type of wiring problem because i here a sound like my injectors are frying and fuel pump relay frying also when car is left in the koeo since it won't start. Do anybody out there know where a problem like this would lead to or do i just break down and let my local mechanics do me? I would just like to say thank you for everyone that has given me advice and i will keep the board posted on my findings for anyone else that may have had a similiar issue.
 
Do you mean firing or frying (like bacon)?

I actually here frying like bacon. This is a problem like i never had before. I know with my EX N/A TBIRD my problems always surrounded itself around bad battery connections but this sc has me puzzled?
 
The only thing that I could make it sound like frying bacon is if there is a bad connection that is turning the relay for the fuel pump on and off rapidly. For the Fuel injectors I don't know. Maybe a bad engine ground. There is ground on the back side of the cyl head on the DR side. And If I remember correctly there is one on the pass side low on the engine. All these problems sound like bad grounds. Could the sound you hear be fron the ABS pump or somethinf besides the injectors? Have you checked the fuel pressure? I don't have a breakdown of all those codes (I sold both my SC's)

Jeff
 
A definite try!

L.A.TBIRD said:
THe codes i am have been trying to figure out is 14,66,87,96 so far i have replaced camshaft sensor, fuel filter, and fuel pump but it still will not start and if it does it stalls almost immediately. Upshift light goes out and stays out as i am trying to start car so i don't think its the cranksensor but don't know? While under the car it did appear that the motor mounts maybe shot but i don't know if that would cause the car to stop starting when it has been running great. Actually it was kind of funny? You have always heard of people saying when a car hits 100,000 miles its shot. The day before my trouble starts the odometer hit 100K running strong with a fresh oil change WTF!!!
I would try changing out the crankshaft sensor too.....I had the same peoblems in my 93 sc and changed both the cam and crank sensors....took me the better part of a day but no that hard for being my first time scrwing around with the engine......afterwards it started right up and stays started.....BUT!!...lol....I still seem to have a an intermittent idle problem....after running for about 5 minutes it drops down and barely stays above stalling but never does.....anyway...thats my story and I'm stickin to it....good luck...and I'd say it's worth a shot
 
can you hear the fuel pump when you turn the key before cranking , maybe inertia switch , or check fuel pressure at the check valve , the only other thing that ever kept mine from starting was crank sensor or harmonic balancer
 
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Hey it sounds like a bad ground has come into play. I have had the same problem myself with my old 91 SC. Look around the battery ground cables as well as ground wire that my be broken or loose on the engine block itself. One more thing. You may want to examine your engine compartment fuse/relay box for damaged or broken wires. About the no running on my 89 cougar I went through a few parts on my car trying to get it to start, when I was looking around the battery I found a little barral connector that comes off a wire that leads to the ground side of the battery, "in front of the battery". Mine had come disconnected. As soon as I pluged it in, my car fired right up. To the best of my knowledge, all 89-95 t-birds and cougars have this connector. I hope that some of this mess that I wrote helps. God bless.
 
Fyi

I finally figured out what the problem was and would like to share what fixed my problem in the end. First off i know this is old but here it goes. I went thru the usual changing parts thing Dis, spark plugs and wires,fuel pump, crank sensor(twice),IRCM and nothing would get my fuel pump to run and build up pressure without jumping it and the spark was eractic. Upshift light would not go out even after switching it twice. After original fault codes was cleared computer would only give pass codes and would always do the self test correctly. Now guess what was bad all this time. It was the computer!!! Sent it to SIA Electronics to be tested or repaired. $103.50 later and few days the car started up on the first try after sitting for a while. Car is running like new, barely heats up to the N, Supercharger even screams louder, and tires breaking loose and all I have is exhaust work. So to anybody that may be having similar problems you may want to get your computer checked out. And my opinion it is about age of your computer and not mileage because my car has exactly 100,000 miles on it but the computer was original 16 years old.
 
It's great to see someone come back and post an update with the solution to their problem. Hopefully a mod can get this post into the FAQ forum.

Where in LA are you?

Paul
 
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