Trunk Shaving????

T@Sound-Xtreme

Registered User
While i was in the garage today for the first time in a long time, i was working on some boxes, and i was already working on a box using bondo, so i decieded to try my luck out with the extra trunk i had laying in the garage. So im looking to see if anyone would be interested in this, i could send you a shaved trunk and you could send me yours, or send me yours and ill send it back to you? What would a good price be? I think it looks damn good all nice a smooth across the lid.

This is just fiberglass, primer, and some black paint.

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Tyler
 
If you lived closer I'd just come over and let you do that to my car. Could probably do it in an afternoon right? I mean hell my trunk is already primer and I want to shave the lock before I get the car painted. If I did it or had you do it I bet it'll save me big money when it goes in the shop.

Where in Ohio are you?
 
Right now im in NC, i prolly wont be coming home for like 2-3 months, since i jsut took a week and half vacation up there. The lock is still in that trunk, i left it there because i wasnt sure if i took it out if it would still pop the same when you press the button inside. I was thinkning of charging like $45-50, does that sound decent? I dont know what trunk "shaving" really goes for, but id like to keep mine cheaper than body shops. If you take the actual lock out, will it affect the lever that pops the hood open?


Tyler
 
I have the lock cylinder in my trunk still, but the plastic tab broke that holds the rod to the latch, so basically the only way I get into the trunk is through the glove box. The lock just gives someone an idea that they can brute force their way in my trunk if they hear my system, so I turn off the amp until I'm pretty far away from the house. I am renting a room from a friend and its not the best neighborhood. We haven't had any problems on our block, but I have seen some of the people in the surrounding area and I figure better safe than sorry. So I don't let them even know that I have anything in my car.
 
err! uhh!

ok, guys what do you do if the button breaks thats in the glove box and you cant get into the trunk. maybe put a manual release switch in. its a PIA pulling the rear seat just to get in there.


By the way, the trunk looks good.
 
unless your welding a peice over the lock i would not trust it most likely over time it could crack and fall out
 
Brad Klein unless your welding a peice over the lock i would not trust it most likely over time it could crack and fall out

Ya, i had been wondering about like when it got cold and stuff, but then agian the fiberglass is the only thing there, no bondo, and that stuff takes quite a while to get worn down.

Tyler
 
Brad Klein said:
unless your welding a peice over the lock i would not trust it most likely over time it could crack and fall out
I agree. Repeated closures of the trunk will cause the fiberglass to develop spider cracks. The only way to do it is to weld a piece in, grind it, and put filler over it to smooth it for paint.
 
Darkside
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Klein
unless your welding a peice over the lock i would not trust it most likely over time it could crack and fall out

I agree. Repeated closures of the trunk will cause the fiberglass to develop spider cracks. The only way to do it is to weld a piece in, grind it, and put filler over it to smooth it for paint.


aghh yes, thats something i didnt think about,hmmmmmm. Maybe ill try it on my car and see how long it lasts, never really know till ya try right?!?!?!?



Tyler
 
The trunk looks good, but I would be worried about the fiberglass beginning to spider web after time. For what it takes, removing the key solenoid is a joke, and welding in a piece of sheet metal doesn't take long.

With the solenoid removed, I cut out the recessed metal that surrounded the solenoid. I used cardboard to make a template for the patch and cut it out of steel. A few minutes with a MIG welder, and you're almost done. Grind down the spot welds, and a skim coat of body filler should be all it needs.

For those worried about getting into the trunk should the electronic release fail, I usually run a cable with housing to the release and hide it in the interior of the car. This will allow you to pop the trunk manually by pulling the cable should you ever need it.
 

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You need to put the sheet metal patch as close to the surface as possible. That is why I cut out the recessed area where the key solenoid fits. Use a magnet to hold the patch and weld it in. Give the welds a grind, and the patch should be almost perfect in terms of being surface flush and minimal bondo will be needed.
 

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An easy way to get it you filler pieces is to apply some painters tape (masking tape) over the area you want to fill in (with the lock cyl removed of course). Run your finger around the edge to clearly mark the edges of the area to be filled. Outline this area with a sharpie, remove the tape w/outline and apply it to a donor piece of sheetmetal. Cut around the outside edge with tin snips or your cutting tool of choice (keep in mind the heat distorts metal) and there you have your filler panels. As mentioned before use a magnet to hold in place while you tack it into place (again keep in mind, while welding, that heat distorts metal).

I shaved door handles and on several cars using this method and I am by no means an expert with a welder.

Note: It works better to have a spare door a laying around to ensure your contours are the same as the area you want to fill.
 
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