Changed my Strut Rod Bushings...

89SCK@t

Registered User
HOLY CRAP! Was it a pain in the butt...I work at Big 10 Tires as an uncertified mechanic...I don't have a lot of my own tools, but I can do the simple stuff.

Since the "true" mechanics only let me borrow a 12", 15" cresent wrench, and a ball peen hammer, I decided to take on the challenge of replacing my bushings...I kid you not, these were the only tools I had enough to replace them.

I got my bushings from AutoZone since I heard, and read, the Moog Polys have to be replaced in three months. The bushings from AZ were rubber:

susp. to arm part # FA7193 15.99
susp. to fram part # FA1771 22.99

I only took off the outer nut of the strut rod connecting to the frame and the only nut connecting to the Lower control arm for the bushing.

I decided to take out just the outer frame nut and outer lower control arm nut, just to remove the Strut rod...that didn't work, so I removed the coil over bolt to the Lower control arm...that didn't work...Then I removed the Lower Ball joint and Tie Rod, it didn't work...I said, "Screw it", marked the position for the adjust on the control arm with a white crayon and took the ENTIRE control arm out. Guess what...that damn bushing came out!

Just remember to use one of the cresent wrenches to hold onto the flat part of the S.R. itself and DO NOT move the middle nut. I used it as a reference for how tight everything was.

If you haven't changed the bushing in over 200K miles, the metal sleeves will stick to the strut rod itself. I HAD to beg for an air chisel to remove it. I put the bushing that needed to be in the inner side without a problem...it was the metal sleeves that were provided to me from AZ that I had a problem with.

On both of the outer ends of the strut rod I had to tighten their respective nuts (without bushing on the outside, or washers) to get the metal sleeves to where I would have enough room for the bushings and washers sitting there with enough thread to tighten them down. I bolted everything else up to were it was needed(remember the markings you made on the Lower control arm?), then tightened the SRB's down to where they needed to be. Since I didn't touch the middle nut, I at least got it to manufacturer's spec till I get the alignment done. Then I tightened everything else down to where it needed to be.

I did it in 2 hours with cresent wrenches and a hammer, you'll know when to use the hammer, for one side. All I know is that when I replace the driver side tomorrow, I am just going to remove the lower control arm to alliviate any difficulty that I might have.

If anyone has any different ideas, let me know...


Stephen
 
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