Just got done gasket matching my exhaust ports, take a look

sizemoremk

Registered User
Now that I got your head porting attention... LOL!!!

Ok I didn't really gasket match the exhaust ports, I know I know the exhasut ports should be just about left alone...

Anyways, I am taking my first stab at porting heads, and just want some feedback!

I did smooth out the bowl area and got rid of any sharp areas. And I did grind down the protruding valve guide into the exhast port.

I didn't try to enlarge the port or reshape it or anything, I just went around once with a "tootsie roll" to smooth it out. There was a "bump" along the side of the bowl, going into the port, so I smoothed it out a bit.

I was lucky on my exhasut ports, my seats don't protrude into the bowl, but I did have a sharp edge just above the top of the seats that I smoothed out.

I also unshrouded the valves, at somewheres around a 30 degree angle.
I am kinda concerned about getting the unshrouded area matched really well, and from the pictures, it looks like the cut on one combustion chamber is a little smaller than the others, so I will check that out again tomorrow, it could have just been the angle of the camera...

Next I will move onto port matching the intake ports to a felpro gasket, and do the same for the intake manifold along with following the
MN12performance guide for smoothing the little bumps in the intake manifold.

I am hoping to get some more pointers on the intake side, I imagine these are more difficult ot port, as I don't want to do anything that would adversely affect the swirling affect, especially anywhere around the injectors.

My understanding is that I don't necessarily want to "polish" the intake side, as this may affet the mixture... So what exactly do I want to do to the intake side????

I plan on trying to put together a home head porting guide, so let me know if I screwed anyting up, and it will be a learning experience or everyone. So any help will be appreciated.

Just as an indicator of how tedious this work is, this is probably about 6 hours or so of work thus far...

Well what do ya think?

Thank guys!!!
 

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They Look pretty good to me

It wouldnt hurt to polish the combustion chamber itself while your at it

This alleviates any burrs and casting bumps that cause hotspots
that cause detonation

All you really need is some sand paper of various abrasiveness and some time
 
i thought that you were supposed to port match the intake side and smooth it too. :confused:, but other than that they look good, i was just looking on how to ushroud the valves thanks for the pics.
 
Conan56 said:
It wouldnt hurt to polish the combustion chamber itself while your at it

This alleviates any burrs and casting bumps that cause hotspots
that cause detonation

All you really need is some sand paper of various abrasiveness and some time

I've got some finer grit rolls also.... and plenty more time, so I'll be smoothing them out some more.

I am curious what kind of "tool" I could use to polish the CCs??? Is there die grinder sized "flapper wheels"??? I meant to ask this also... I will also be using a TBC coating in the CCs and tops of pistons to help against detonation...

Also, what is that little bump right between the valves in the CC? should I remove them???

And there are little raised ovals in the intake ports, what is there purpose, and should I remove those also??

Thanks!
 

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....what's with the AR15/M16 laying below the head.....you gonna shoot 'em?lol................
z
 
z90sc said:
....what's with the AR15/M16 laying below the head.....you gonna shoot 'em?lol................
z


That's outta my boy's arsenal.

Don't tell him I used it to prop up the heads :D
 
Polishing the CC will only give minimal gains from what I have heard. I also do this but have been critisized because of the carbon build up that occurs sooo soon after the engine is started. I would take out the bump in the intake and smooth any radi. However, did I read right that you took down the guide? I would leave them alone because I would rather have valve stability then the minimal gain in flow that it achieves. This is just my .02 and I hope someone else chimes in...Rich, Randy, Dave, Jim...anyone?

But, your unshrouding looks pretty good. Dont go too far because you dont want to jack the CCs that much.

Chris
 
seawalkersee said:
But, your unshrouding looks pretty good. Dont go too far because you dont want to jack the CCs that much.

Chris

That is my biggest concern so far....

On the valve guide, I seen a few pics where this has been done, and I know of someone else who done this and has had no problems... So we shall see..... I was mainly concerned about the big bump in the area around the guide...

As for polishing the CCs, I am going to be polishing them, and using a TBC (thermal barrier coating) kinda liek swain coating. I will also be using some dry film lubricant on the valvetrain. (stems, springs, rockers, etc) Its spose to reduce detonation, and keep the heat in the CC, rather obsorbing heat into the parts. Its going on the tops of the pistons also.


But once again, does anyone know what kind of abrasive attachment I can use to polish the chambers?

It seems like I've seen a flapper wheel that looks kinda like a flower, for lack of a better description? What are these called???

Thanks!
 
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After finish sanding I use feltbobs that have abrasives
inbedded in then.You can buy fine or corse grits.Then
use a buffing compound.The feltbobs cost around $4.00
each take around 2 of them for each combustion chamber.
There are different shapes ,round pair shapes,etc.

You can use the little flower 3-M abrasives to take out
sanding marks.But you don't get a mirror polish from then.
They are just a start to get a mirror finish.

I have found polishing can add around 2% to flow or less.

Don't forget to sand and polish the outside of the heads.

In the pictures you have a good start on porting.I would
say your around 20% finished.
 
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Randy N Connie said:
feltbobs that have abrasives
inbedded in then.

You can use the little flower 3-M abrasives to take out
sanding marks.

Are the felt bobs the hard white deals that came with my die grinder? Or are tey the soft ones that you put comapund on???

I got the tootsie rolls from the local machine tool supply place, and thats all the had, they didn't even have the tapered tootsie rolls...

In the pictures you have a good start on porting.I would
say your around 20% finished.

You gotta gimmie 25%... I did some more smooting and blending last night!!!

But I am taking my time, hoping not to screw something up!

Don't forget to sand and polish the outside of the heads.

By the way, is there a reason I would sand and polish the outside of the head? Other than looking pretty? Does that help dissipate heat or something??? Do I really need to dissapate any more heat in the engine compartment, LOL!!! I assuem this is just to lok pretty? I planto get after it with some flapper wheels and a drill, but I really wasn't planning to "polish" the outside of the heads :confused:
 
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I still can't find out where to get "felt bobs" I did see some dremel type ones, at eastwood (thanks guy) but can't seem to find any with abrasive in it...

Any ideas?

Thanks!
 
Polishing Compounds

sizemoremk said:
I still can't find out where to get "felt bobs" I did see some dremel type ones, at eastwood (thanks guy) but can't seem to find any with abrasive in it...

Any ideas?

Thanks!
Do you have a Northern Hardware or Harbor Freight Tool store in your area? Is so, go there and you will see a display of the different compounds. They typically come in a cardboard tube and are available for ferous, non-ferous (aluminium - what you want), and plastic. There are different grits/grades going from course to fine. I believe the two you want to get are the red rouge (red) and tripoli (white). I think you start with the red and finish with the white .... I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong here! :eek:

I believe there is a FAQ on polishing aluminium parts ... read that for some additional insight.
 
Well Randy just said he got some with abrasives embeded in them...

I had some of the cotton dealies form the dremel kit, and used some comound on those, seemed to work fine....

We got us a HF, but hey don't usually have much in the abrasives isle, may they just can't keep stock.... I haven;t checked recently, so I guess I'll have to grab the ole dude down the hall and go up to HF.

I'll post some more pics tonight!

I'm still asking for a litttle more guidance on the intake side. All I plan to do at the moment is round out some csasting marks and leave an 80 grit finish.

Thanks again guys!!!
 
sizemoremk said:
Well Randy just said he got some with abrasives embeded in them...


Thanks again guys!!!

www.jlindustrial.com

About all you can do on the intake. Would be to make
the center port as straight as you can.I would finish the
intake with 120 grit.With fuel injected ports,You don't
half follow the thumb-rule of a wet port,(like a carb
motor).You can just finish the port injector ditch with
the 80 grit,120 for the rest of port, or polish if you
got a lot of energy to burn up.. :)

You can smooth out to a light polish with inpregnated
feltbobs.For a mirror finish you have to buff with compound.
The thing about polishing your ports ,you will be able to
see better all the high & low spots in the ports.

Randy
 
What about the two outside ports? Also, we were talking about bigger valves. What kind of downside do you forsee to that Randy? I know Dave was running some or ran some, but it was a time will tell kind of thing.

Chris
 
I would'nt spend too much time polishing your CC's because that Ceramic coating you plan on useing needs a sandblasted surface in order for it to adhere to the applied surface. You will also need to sandblast the valvefaces and piston tops.
DO NOT use glassbeads as they will embed and cause the coating to flake off once the engine fires.
 
MIKE 38sc said:
I would'nt spend too much time polishing your CC's because that Ceramic coating you plan on useing needs a sandblasted surface in order for it to adhere to the applied surface. You will also need to sandblast the valvefaces and piston tops.
DO NOT use glassbeads as they will embed and cause the coating to flake off once the engine fires.


I realized this yesterday, so I won't be polishing the CCs, anymore anyway... Just got carried away that's all..

Mike, do you think I should use that coating in the exhasut ports also?

Thanks!
 
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