Repaired by not totally functional Code 63

R

rickbtbird

Registered User
Hi,
I started a thread a few weeks back but it's getting rather long so I thought I'd post it again so I can get some additional suggestions.
Well it all started one day on my way to work one day... http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65253&page=1&pp=15.

I know it's been a few weeks since I started working on the Bird but Monday through Friday for me I can't do anything because I carry one of these pagers and work has been unbearable the past few weeks. Finally this weekend I dedicated two entire days to the car and I finally got it back together, now I (lmao) have a different problem.

Here's what's been done so far. I tore it down to the intake manifold and replaced or repaired the following:
  • Cam Sendor Cap (new)
  • IAC and gasket (new)
  • Coil Pack (used)
  • DIS (used)
  • Injector O-Rings (new)
  • NGK Spark Plugs (new)
  • Taylor Wires (new)
  • Tbird88 Teflon IC gaskets (new)
  • Bypass Hose (used)
  • Air Bypass gasket (new)
  • Under-Drive accessory Pulley set (new)
  • Removed and rewrapped both the ignition and Fuel injection wire harnesses
  • IC fan (new although not hooked up yet)
I've got a Crank Senor (Not installed yet) but maybe I should.

Anyway, So I get all the parts back on and do a fuel pressure test and it passes, so I flip on the ignition and hit it with the remote starter and crank her up and it starts and runs good, not the best so I shut her down and start again to get the computer to learn and it runs perfect, better then it ever has. I go to turn off the ignition switch and look at the dash and I have the infamous "check engine light" illuminated. Crap! I shut it down and start checking for disconnected wires and I find none.

I attached a code reader to it and I'm getting a 63,63,1,11,11. Best I can tell the TPS is low on voltage and wouldn't you know it, that's the only cheap part I didn't buy. Rock auto here I come... So I'm gonnahafta wait a few days before I can do that.

Be that as it may, I took it for a test drive. It ran perfect and with the new seals in the IC and bypass hose, it ran better then it has in about a year (mustahada vacuum leak). It was running perfect for about 15 minutes and the engine starting cutting out and the TAC starting jumping up and down. Hmmmm... could that be the TPS? I thought that was a Cam or Crank Sensor problem. Anyway so I have both as spares and when I get the TPS I'm also gonna do the crank sensor. Also I guess I should do another fuel pressure test while the motor is hot and running just to double check that as well.

Any suggestion?
 
Last edited:
seawalkersee said:
Sounds like the bad DIS. That is what controls the tach.

Chris
Click to expand...
I have three DIS modules... I put one on last night and I still get the "Check Engine Light" so I'm sure the TPS is bad or out of adjustment. As for the intermittent "cutting out and the TAC starting jumping" I'll take it for a ride tonight with a different DIS and we'll see if that problem changes but, I'm thinking I'm gonnahafta do the crank sensor after all.
 
Lemme know what ya find. I still think its probably the DIS module. When mine quit, I got a new one from the parts store and it ran for about four miles. I had to put the bad one back on to get it to the parts store to return the old one. I am not sure what a bad crank sensor will do for performance. The best I can tell is it would not run peroid and that is all I have seen from a bad one. Oh and the DIS did not trip a code.

Chris
 
Well I got my new TPS today. Rock Auto really ROCKS.. It took one entire day to get here with standard shipping.

I didn't have time to take the old TPS off as I have to remove the IAC and that's gonna take a bit or work because I can't get to the bolt on the bottom without moving some other stuff around... ect.. so this may turn out to be a major job (again) :( .

What I did do is disconnect the old one and connect the new one and grounded the brass bushing to the TB and reran diags.... and I'm still pulling a code 63, so this must not be a valid test. I disconnected it and hooked up a vmm to it and connected to pins B A and it's reading about 256 ohms. As I rotate the pot the resistance decreases drastically. When I connect to C B pins the reading is 3.6 ohms and as I rotate the pot the resistance decreases slightly until I hit WOT where I'm getting 320 ohms.

I tried to measure the resistance of the one on the TB but when I rotate the butterfly I get no change in resistance on any sets of pins therefore I'm thinking that the POT is bad on the old TPS.

I wasn't able to do a voltage check on the TPS as I either need a breakout box or find some fine wire to get into the connector. BTW does anybody know which wires I need to touch to get the proper reading because there's three.

Hopeful I'll have more cycles this weekend to pull off the TB and install the TPS.
 
Fill in the blanks

Ok, I got the old TPS off without removing the either intake system and TB. It wasn't easy to get the bolts off the IAC (bottem) while TB was attached to the intake but I got it done. I attached the new TPS and hooked up the code reader and it passes with 11,11. Ok that's good to go now. So I'm trying to put the bottom bolt back on the IAC and it I lose the bolts inside the engine compartment (son of a ..... ) and I can't find it anywhere (dirty .... ......). Therefore I can't bolt down the IAC right now until I get a new bolt. Therfore I can't test drive the car. So now it's time for a few cold beers and tomorrow's another day.
 
Beer Solves Everything

Ok, I found the bolt.. after two beers. Got everything tacked up and started the beast and Walla.. no CEL. Great, now to see if the other problem reappears. So I take it for a 15 minute ride and as expected the car started shuttering and this time I get a CEL. So I limp it into the driveway shut her down, attached the code reader and do the KOEO over again and I get a 11,11,1,45,45. This is a Continuous Memory Exception for a bad DIS. Basically it means if you get one of the listed exception codes you should fix it first before going to the next step. The DIS attached to the car is one of two I got from someone here..LMAO :rolleyes:. I put on my original and drive it for 20 minutes and its now fine.

Problem resolved! Bad TPS and DIS. All I need to do now is wire up the blower fan and buy the molding and BAP bracket so I can put my wiper pivot assembly and cowl back on and I'm good to go.
 
Was your DIS a Ford one or some cheep parts store one? I will never use the crappy parts store ones unless I can not get the good stuff. I had one form Orieleys but that was because the one from Ford was a week away.

Chris
 
seawalkersee said:
Was your DIS a Ford one or some cheep parts store one? I will never use the crappy parts store ones unless I can not get the good stuff. I had one form Orieleys but that was because the one from Ford was a week away.

Chris
Click to expand...
It was a used one my Ford I got from one of the people selling parts here on this site.
 
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