Headgaskets, Heads, And ARP Studds

Danzajax

Registered User
So, i was dilligently tearding down my motor when my friend pointed out that the ARP headstuds i got might not allow me to install my new heads without removing the motor. Is this true? Do i have to switch back to crappy head bolts? Help? Motor is in the car and i need to have this done ASAP (cars in his garage)

Some pictures of the surgery.
Parts in trunk
You can almost see the block

Thanks
-dan
 
I didn't have one slight problem putting the head studs in with the motor in the car.

It's all simple. Good luck :)
 
Do not despair. In the event there is not enough room, you can always take the two 13mm bolts out of the mounts and raise the engine for clearance :D. In the event that there is STILL not enough room, put the heads on and stick the bottom studs in then and then put the nuts on. Think outside the box.

Chris
 
Danzajax said:
So, i was dilligently tearding down my motor when my friend pointed out that the ARP headstuds i got might not allow me to install my new heads without removing the motor. Is this true? Do i have to switch back to crappy head bolts? Help? Motor is in the car and i need to have this done ASAP (cars in his garage)

Some pictures of the surgery.
Parts in trunk
You can almost see the block

Thanks
-dan

If your car is a 92 or older, you might have problems clearing the mastercylinder. I don't remember having problems, but you might have to install the upper studs after the head is in place. The lower studs are short enough you won't have a problem.
 
A couple of the long studs on the driver's side will need to be removed to allow clearance around the brake booster when removing or installing the heads. It's not a big deal if you have the new style studs with the allen head connections on the ends.

I've done it several times.

David
 
Whew, Good. I was thinking i could sandwich two nuts on the top of the studs and dive them in like a bolt as a backup plan. That has worked well before. Thanks for the info.

Another question.

To take off the Power steering assembly bracket. Do i need to pull the pump pulley. Ive dilligently back out the nut/stud behind the pulley but theres bearly any room and im wondering about when i go to put it back in. Do you guys remove the pulley?. Also, if i wanted to remove my SC Pulley, how you suggest to do it? The instructions i have seem a little brutal (put a 3 jaw puller on there and remove it.)

What is the SC belt length you would suggest for a 92 with a 10% OD

-dan
 
Danzajax said:
Whew, Good. I was thinking i could sandwich two nuts on the top of the studs and dive them in like a bolt as a backup plan. That has worked well before. Thanks for the info.

Another question.

To take off the Power steering assembly bracket. Do i need to pull the pump pulley. Ive dilligently back out the nut/stud behind the pulley but theres bearly any room and im wondering about when i go to put it back in. Do you guys remove the pulley?. Also, if i wanted to remove my SC Pulley, how you suggest to do it? The instructions i have seem a little brutal (put a 3 jaw puller on there and remove it.)

What is the SC belt length you would suggest for a 92 with a 10% OD

-dan

Dan,

The head studs are only installed into the block hand tight. The ones you buy now have an allen head socket connection on the exposed end to make installing and removing the studs easier.

So you just leave a couple studs out until after the head is in place and then install the studs. Use a small dab of thread sealer on all the short studs, because some go into water jackets.

There is a special puller to remove the power steering pulley. It grips on the area near the shaft. Autozone and most other places will rent/loan you the puller/installer. I discarded that bolt behind the pulley so now I don't have to remove pulley.

David
 
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Get the ARP studs for the Chevy 2.8 V-6...you wont have to do any trimming and they fit easily....If you use the studs for the SC engine you will have to trim a couple of them so you can get the exhaust to remount....
 
Finger tight. Gotcha. I bought the ones for the 2.8L. They seem to fit well. Ive run into another concern.

I bought a brand new water pump. before installing it compared it to the one on my block (as ive grown tired of installing and removing a part because i found a stud/hole/bracket is wrong/small/big/moved).

The new one appears to have some type of oiling hole on the top, just forward of the impeller housing. The old one has no such hole. It dosent appear that any water would come out the hole but im afraid of items (rust, dirt etc) falling into it. Its about a 1/4 inch in diameter and i can see the pump shaft inside. I have pictures but i forgot my Camera cable (doh). So ascii art will have to do. Should i seal up this hole? fill it with oil, grease, chocolate syrup? I could buy a 1/4 inch bolt, cover it in RTV and seal it up.


From the top looking down on the pump as if it were installed on the engne.


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Original

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New Pump with strange hole.



There are notes on the sheet. This is a brand new pump, double checked to be the one that worked with the 3.8L SC.

Is it ok to leave those bolts out? There really freaking annoying. I did rent the Power Seering Pulley Puller (i used to work at a 24hr AutoZone). But if i can avoid that horror id really like to.

Thanks again.

-dan
 
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Are you sure it's the up side and not the down side weep hole? It may also be there just to allow for venting of the bearing.

What's the part number from what store or manufacturer?
 
Mike8675309 said:
Are you sure it's the up side and not the down side weep hole? It may also be there just to allow for venting of the bearing.

What's the part number from what store or manufacturer?
I agree that it sounds like the weep hole.
 
Well, without seeing it and being able to tap it all you can do is guess. I was thinking that it might be some sort of pressure equalization hole to maybe relieve pressure that could build behind a seal or something as things heat up.

I wouldn't think there would be two weep holes. Thus one's weep, but the other must be for some reason. Likely a redesign by that rebuilder.
 
Yes, that is a weep hole. At times they have been known to have the hole all the way through the pump (before you add the internals). Like I said...I wouldnt worry about that little fellah.

Chris
 
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