Intermidate No Start

MN12nationals

Registered User
I've started to get an anooying problem with the old SC.

I have started to just get the old "click" problem when starting the car. Here is what I have done so far.

Replaced relay(whatever it is) on the drivers side fender wall.
Check wire to the starter. (looked good)

This morning I had to turn the iginition over about 10 times for it to start, first 9 just clicks. This afternooon after work I will more then likely get the same situation. The other day it required a push start to get it to start.

I guess the only thing left is a new starter that I can tell. Its an AutoZone replacement one from about 6-7yrs ago.

I could also check the ignition switch, old SC had a loose ignition switch as the tabs broke off in the rear on the plastic part.

Any help or suggestions would be greatful.
 
Clicking like that is normally either a weak battery or defective starter solenoid (on the starter itself). Places like PepBoys will test the starter for you - it only takes a few minutes to take it off. SC starters are also notorious for corroded solenoid connectors, so you can check that while your under the car (it's the small spade connection to the solenoid mounted on top of the starter body).
 
Joisey Jim said:
SC starters are also notorious for corroded solenoid connectors, so you can check that while your under the car (it's the small spade connection to the solenoid mounted on top of the starter body).


This was the connector I checked and it looked clean and tightly seated.

I imagine that the starter might be the issue so off to AutoZone/O'Reilys to get it tested. No PepBoys around here in blamy So. IL, 110 heat index today and like 110% humidity! :eek:

Thanks for the info so far, any other suggestions out there?
 
TBirdDriver said:
Don't forget the negative ground cable.
Mine was badly corroded after 64,000 miles.
If it was the ground cable, it wouldnt even click would it? I know on my mustang the ground cable was bad, and it wouldnt make a sound.
 
its been working for over a yr this way. There is no possible loose connection its bolted through the trunk floor for the ground.

This is a newly occuring problem.
 
If you can't see the problem in the logic that there is no way then I feel for you. I have had battery cables come loose after years of service. Besides by moving the battery you have made far more connection points than there was previuosly.

Jeff
 
My starter started doing the exact same thing a couple months ago. I was convinced it was the starter in need of replacement. Upon closer inspection I found it was the small wire with the spade connector on the starter that was causing the problem. I pulled it off, cleaned the connection as best as I could with a small wire brush, put the wire back on and squeezed it tight with a Vise-Grips. Car has started with no problems since then.

Check out that connection. Mine didn't LOOK loose or too dirty either, but I figured it was worth a try before spending the $$$ on a new starter.

Good luck, and let us know what you figure out.
 
If you can't see the problem in the logic that there is no way then I feel for you. I have had battery cables come loose after years of service. Besides by moving the battery you have made far more connection points than there was previuosly.

The reason I say this was not an issue is because I just remounted the ground cable. There is no way that was loose, nor the other cables because I just remounted everything in the trunk to rule out a loose connection.

I also made sure all connection on the fender wall device was connected correctly and completely when I replaced that with the new item.

And is there truely any additional connections made with a trunk mount system? I think there is the same amount just in different locations.

My starter started doing the exact same thing a couple months ago. I was convinced it was the starter in need of replacement. Upon closer inspection I found it was the small wire with the spade connector on the starter that was causing the problem. I pulled it off, cleaned the connection as best as I could with a small wire brush, put the wire back on and squeezed it tight with a Vise-Grips. Car has started with no problems since then.

I also did this and crimped the connection, the spade part was clean of corrision.


I'm going to check the remainder of this wire to see if it damaged upstream at all.
 
As long as you looked that's fine but just saying that ain't it and not giving an explaination of how you made the connection makes me think you haven't checked. Wiring is like skinning cats there is more than one way so you could have 15 butt connectors for all I know. If you expect help you have to tell everything that is going on. You didn't even mention moving the battery to the trunk at first. How the hell are we supposed to help you when we can't see what's going on? All we have is what you have stated nothing more. You also didn't even know what the solenoid was called, leading us to believe that you don't even know what you are looking at.

Help us help you.

Jeff
 
As long as you looked that's fine but just saying that ain't it and not giving an explaination of how you made the connection makes me think you haven't checked. Wiring is like skinning cats there is more than one way so you could have 15 butt connectors for all I know. If you expect help you have to tell everything that is going on. You didn't even mention moving the battery to the trunk at first. How the hell are we supposed to help you when we can't see what's going on? All we have is what you have stated nothing more. You also didn't even know what the solenoid was called, leading us to believe that you don't even know what you are looking at.

Well the moving the battery to the trunk was not the issue and why it was left out till the question about grounding came up. I've been around SC's now for over 12 yrs, and this is my 3rd SC at this time. So what that I did not know the exact name of the part at the time of asking the question? Does that mean I don't know what I'm talking about? I described the exact location of the part and did not have time to really think about part names as I was at work and was worried about getting home that evening(which I did).

I really don't enjoy getting into pissing matches when all I was asking for was some help on a situation. If you don't have something contructive to say on the situation, then don't post to someones post. Simple as that.
 
Then you should have no problems fixing this as it is very simple. There are only a few items to check.

I am not trying to get into a pissing match, as I said earlier we can't see it you have to tell us.

Trouble shooting sight unseen and only going on what someone says is extremly difficult. I do it for work and I can't tell you how many times I am scratching my head because I tell someone to check something simple (fused indicator lights) and they tell me "I already checked that" only to find out they didn't and after several phone calls they finally call me from the equipment on a cell phone and then say "Are all the lights supposed to be on?"
 
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