Geeezz Dave, will ya stop showing off your chit already and get it to the track and the dyno.
Skip, I already went to the dyno (it sucked)...that's why I'm making all the changes. Since installing the 240/240 cam last year it won't pull over 335 rwhp, no matter what I did. Should be much better now, but won't know until getting it dyno tuned today or tommorow.
what did you use to seal the grommet to the reservoir
My favorite...Permatex Copper RTV. It's a bulkhead fitting that you have to special order with the kit and has a nut on the inside of the tank to hold it in place. The RTV was just to prevent leaks...Snow actually reccomends another type of sealer, but I knew this stuff would work.
So how did the cam swap with the motor in go for you? Did you have plenty of room to get it in and out?
It went fine...after removing the radiator and MP FMIC there was plenty of room to remove it without messing with the AC condensor. The only thing that was unexpected was finding out that I don't actually own a puller big enough to remove the BHJ. Well that and I ended up buying new lifters because a few of the ones I had were questionable and had small wear grooves on the rollers and I didn't want to mess up the surface of the new cam lobes.
Have you had any issues with that aftermarket fuel pressure regulator mounted there? I've heard that many people have quality issues with such regulators.
I haven't had any issues with this particular one, because I just installed it a few weeks ago when doing the MPIII swap. I went to the dyno and did a baseline pull just prior to making the swap and found that I was running dangerously lean. Since I had no way of re-burning the Apten Diablo chip that's in the car, I was forced to install an Adjustable regulator to richen the A/F ratio by raising the pressure.
I don't like adjustables and I've had problems with them sticking and leaking in the past. I ordered the latest all billet Kirban, but it didn't arrive in time for the install, so Kurt K. let me use one of the older style Kirbans from his vast parts stash.
Did ya do any work on the bottom end any?
Yes, it's got pretty much everything you could possibly upgrade on the motor done to it, except a main stud girdle.
How much boost are you making with the MPIII and what pulley/jackshaft? Coated rotors?
I think it's around 18-19 pounds over driving it with a 10% ESM 10 rib jackshaft pulley and a 2.75 dia. 10 rib supercharger pulley. Since I peg the stock gauge as soon as I hit the throttle, I have to use the fuel pressure gauge to determine boost levels. According to my calcs it's about 24% overdrive. The rotors are early style bare. I considered installing a set of GTP coated rotors, but decided to wait and see how it does with the bare ones.
It's already sold.
I was lookin at that pic of the lower. Is it mildly worked? It appears to be welded in the front. But the opening looks stock.
Heavily reworked..The intake runners are all about 1/8" taller and wider than stock and required extensions to be welded to the upper portion of the intake manifold and also requires using hand made intake manifold gaskets (pain in the a$$). The heads and the manifold are a matched set. This was something I regret doing and it didn't make the heads flow much better.
If your talking about the opening for the intake manifold adaptor, yes it's also been ported to match the ESM ported and diffused adaptor.
Thanks for letting me have it, that helped alot. Now with that full billet replacement I traded, your parts stash has been updated
neibert you wuss, that car needs a real blower on it.
I'm just trying to let you catch up. Besides that, If I went straight to the AR I wouldn't have anything to upgrade next year. You know I have to tear the motor apart at least one or twice a year, just for practice.
David