PDA

View Full Version : Several codes pulled, need help!!!!



bustedbird
09-01-2005, 02:57 PM
I broke down and bought a code reader today thinking that maybe it would help solve my brake problems. Here are the codes that came up:

33 - EGR valve not opening
77 - Wide open throttle not sensed during test
74 - Brake on/off circut open, not on during test

Could anybody point me in the right direction as to how remedy these codes, and what they might mean. How would I go about checking the brake circut? Thanks guys, I owe you all a beer!

TbirdSCFan
09-01-2005, 03:29 PM
You're obviously doing a KOER test. On the 74 you are supposed to step on the brake and turn the wheel 1/4 turn clockwise and then counterclockwise within a few seconds after starting the test. For the 77, your are suppose to floor the accelerator pedal briefly when the "goose" pulse flashes.
The EGR code is probably real and indicates a sticking valve. They can sometimes be cleaned.

Unfortunately, none of the EEC codes will tell you anything useful when it come to brakes. Do a forum search with the following words and read up: ABS accumulator relay hard pedal

bustedbird
09-01-2005, 03:33 PM
You're obviously doing a KOER test. On the 74 you are supposed to step on the brake and turn the wheel 1/4 turn clockwise and then counterclockwise within a few seconds after starting the test. For the 77, your are suppose to floor the accelerator pedal briefly when the "goose" pulse flashes.
The EGR code is probably real and indicates a sticking valve. They can sometimes be cleaned.

Unfortunately, none of the EEC codes will tell you anything useful when it come to brakes. Do a forum search with the following words and read up: ABS accumulator relay hard pedal

Thanks, I will need to get an extra hand then.

TbirdSCFan
09-01-2005, 03:38 PM
You can do it yourself sitting in the driver seat. Run the car for 2 minutes if not warm, shut it off, hook up the scanner and then get back in and start the engine. Wait a few seconds for the initial noises and things to stop, then step on the brake, turn the wheel and wait. When the check engine light flashes once, then push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and let off. Then wait for the test to complete.

bustedbird
09-01-2005, 03:40 PM
You can do it yourself sitting in the driver seat. Run the car for 2 minutes if not warm, shut it off, hook up the scanner and then get back in and start the engine. Wait a few seconds for the initial noises and things to stop, then step on the brake, turn the wheel and wait. When the check engine light flashes once, then push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and let off. Then wait for the test to complete.


Right on, will do, thanks again!

bustedbird
09-02-2005, 12:28 AM
Well did everything like I was supposed to, and am still getting codes 74 and 33. Code 74 - Brake on/off circut open, not on during test. I could care less at this point about code 33, the egr valve not opening, but I would like to solve the problem with code 74. Would this have anything to do with the brake lights not working? The antilock light is on also, and the pedal is stiff. I replaced the relay for the pump motor today and it is still the same. I probably need a new accumulator ball, but would this be throwing the code? Thanks again for the help.

Shockwave
09-02-2005, 01:41 AM
Well did everything like I was supposed to, and am still getting codes 74 and 33. Code 74 - Brake on/off circut open, not on during test. I could care less at this point about code 33, the egr valve not opening, but I would like to solve the problem with code 74. Would this have anything to do with the brake lights not working? The antilock light is on also, and the pedal is stiff. I replaced the relay for the pump motor today and it is still the same. I probably need a new accumulator ball, but would this be throwing the code? Thanks again for the help.


TBirdSCFan is correct about operator error as most likely the cause for codes 77 and 74. The code scanner during a Key On Engine Running test should pulse once during the test, this is called Dynamic Response. At that time you should press the accelerator all the way to the floor and let off as quickly as possible. After this point is when I rotate the steering wheel and press the brake pedal.

You must have a working brake pedal switch for code 74 to go away. Get the brake lights fixed first. If you have a hard brake pedal it could be do to a really gone accumulator, but does the ABS motor (under the Master Cylinder assembly) run with just the key on? The ABS pump has to run to create the pressure in the Accumulator to have power brakes. Check the two ABS relays located on the pass side firewall behind the A/C accumulator.


Code 33 is most likely a bad EGR solenoid located on the firewall behind the A/C accumulator.



Jerry

TbirdSCFan
09-02-2005, 06:20 PM
Might want to get someone to look and see if your brake lights are working.. could be the stop lamp switch. They run about $6 at Autozone.

If you replaced the ABS relay, its time to test the pump motor itself by applying 12V directly to it.. Do a forum search on ABS motor and read up on how to do this check. Then start working your way back. Could be the pressure switch. Its not common, but it does happen. Also, ignition switch problems have can cause brake problems.. turn the key back and forth and try it at various settings.