Not talked about Brake light problem

T1Bird

Registered User
Alrighty, this has been a on-going problem for 2 years now, I have been told many times that when I am braking my car is actually slowing down and my lights do not come on, I have replaced my brake light switch 2 times now, I have respliced inline the connector to the brake light switch, It all ends up working the same and Im lost for ideas. I can fully stop the car gently without my rear brake lights coming on, but if I press the pedal hard enough they do? I have new brakes all the way around, was the same way before I did my brake job. In changing the brake light switch tonight I noticed the black plastic bushing that sits inside the arm from the master to the brake arm, it was a bit cracked, Is this a known problem? could it just be that worn that it needs to be replaced?, Anyone had this problem? please lend me some advice! much appreciated.

Bruce
 
you should be able to adjust the position of the switch. It sounds like yor peddle is not engaging the switch when it should :D
 
I dont see a adjustment on the switch itself, is there one? and I can get the lights to work sooner, by pressing the whole switch assembly up, but it won't stay in that position, its not where it wants to sit.
 
May be a bad bracket

Sounds like the bracket is mounted wrong or bad i.e loose or missing a clip. I would suggest you check out how the switch is mounted on a working SC and then either get a new bracket or mount or go to a junk yard and get the whole assembly.

Ed Springer

90 Black XR7 5-speed: 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, '94 Supercharger, 36# injectors, 190 l/h fuel pump, 5% SC Pulley, 180° Stat, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, UD Pulleys, Headers, Magnaflow Muffler (no cats) with stock resonators, 3:27 Gears, Rear Spring Air Bags, Ripper Shifter, 73 C&L MAF (Blue Tube), Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, Royal Purple Synthetic Lubricants.

94 Red SC Auto: 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, Stock 90 SC Pulley, Accel 36# injectors, Scorpian 1.73 Rockers, ARP Head Studs, 190 l/h fuel pump, 180° Stat, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, Headers, UD Pulleys, Raven Muffler (no cats) with stock resonators, 3:73 Gears, 76 C&L MAF (Gold Tube), Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, TRANSGO Shift Kit, Haydon Auxiliary Transmission Cooler, ProTorque 2500 TC, Tokico Struts & Shocks, Royal Purple Synthetic Lubricants, Optima Yellow Top Battery, American Racing 17” Sniper Wheels, Michelin Pilot Sport A/S.
 
thats how mines used to be... then i replaced the brake pedal with a 5 speed one and everything works out fine... mines would turn on about halfway into braking..... very dangerou in traffic.... but now its fixed...
 
well there is a bushing that goes into the arm from the master assembly, which the pin from the brake pedal arm goes through, mine is cracked and a little worn, wondering if that may be the problem, guess we go from here. any other ideas that i can check is always appreciated
 
You can make up for a missing bushing with a few windings of electrical tape and if it fixes the problem, wrap it with something sturdier, such as metal foil tape later. If that doesnt work, it time for atrip to the junk yard.
 
Back
Top