Rear Alignment Problems

Quik95SC

Quik95SC

SCCoA Member
Need some help. Just replaced all the rear suspension bushings to include the IRS. Went to take it the alignment shop today and they are telling me the rear camber is close to -3 degrees off, which he says is way off.

I almost positive when I put it all back together the outer upper control arm has a concentric bolt inside the bushing to adjust the camber of the rear suspension. (original style bushing, not MN12's poly replacements)

The alignment guys says he doesn't see anything to adjust and was wondering if there is a kit to correct it when the car has been lowered. I told him it shouldn't need a "special kit" to adjust the rear suspension.

Am I missing something or does this guy not have a clue? I have used him before, but never had any problems like this.

He also says he can't align the front because you do the rear first and adjust the front to the rear for proper tracking!

So how do I get this thing aligned on the new tires and wheels and suspension?

Smitty
 
He obviously has no clue-here are the adjustments that can be made at the rear:

Toe, Rear

Rear toe is set by rotating a cam bolt on the lower arm inner pivot. Loosen the nut securing the adjustment and set toe by rotating the head of the bolt. Lock the adjustment by holding the bolt and tightening the nut to 230 N-m (170 lb-ft).


Camber, Rear

Camber is adjusted by rotating a cam bolt at the upper arm inner pivot. Loosen the nut securing the adjustment and set camber by rotating the head of the bolt. Lock the adjustment by holding the bolt and tightening the nut to 133 N-m (98 lb-ft).
 
Just like Birdman93 said......

You might have the adjustable bushings......

Loosen one side and turn the bolt to see if the arm moves inside the bushing.....

I had the same thing happen when I had my SC lowered....

They said that if coudn't be aligned.....
 
Loosen nut on upper control arm and turn bolt to adjust.

IRS-Subframe-pic5.JPG
 
I thought so!!

I was trying to tell the alignment folks that the bushing itself was the adjustment. It is inside the bushing itself when you turn the bolt after loosening the nut. I will take it to him on monday and he will take care of it for 1/2 price for the headache. He just said he had never seen one adjust like that before.


Rich,
Will the bushing itself be able to adjust it if I am about
-3.5 degrees to within the -1 to 0 spec or will I have to elongate the hole?

I have the eibach 1.5" lowering springs

Thanks for the help and great article everyone!

Smitty
 
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That is the exact setup that I put under mine and came out with about the same numbers as you......

Does you SC handle like it is on ice..... :D

The adjustable bushing should be able to take out quite a bit of camber......

It looks like the bushing has about ¼" of travel and that adds up to quite a bit at the outer edge of the wheel rim......

Mine was out about 1/8" at the rim and there was plenty of adjustment left...

Sometimes you have to educate the mechanics that work on these cars..... :D
 
Does you SC handle like it is on ice..... :D


Know actually it handles really well, except I think it is easier to chirp the tires on a hard pull because of the right rear tire only sitting on the inside half of the tire.

Thanks for the info/ help

Smitty
 
That's what I was talking about......

When I got into mine after lowering, I floored it and just about spun out..... :eek:

I did a little burn out in the parking lot and you could see that the tires were running out the outer edges..... :confused:

After alignment, the car would hook up better and leave a pair of good dark black footprints...... :D
 
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