eec tuner installed now have hard start when hot

wakinyantanka

Registered User
To any and all tuner pros. What do I need to adjust to get her to start when shes warm? 42lb injectors, 76mm maf, 70mm tbody, just a few of my mods.
Runs great, just have to give her some throttle to start when shes warm.

Thanks :D
 
Sounds like...

Sounds like the throttle body is mis-adjusted. The adjustment screw on the butterfly flap (throttle stop) can become mis-adjusted. This means that the throttle will stay closed and when cold, will start OK, and when warm, will be hard to start.

Is the tuner file written to correct for the 42" injectors?????

If not, this can cause problems. Usually not the problems you have.


Try setting the screw for the throttle plate correctly.

Here is the procedure:

Start the car.

Disconnect the IAC connector from the IAC motor.

Turn the screw down that is by the IAC until it bottoms out.

Then unclip the throttle cable from the throttle body.

Then adjust the screw (it's an allen key) that stops the throttle stop.

Adjust it on the idle is about 700rpm for manual or auto.

Once this is done, reconnect the IAC connector and throttle cable.

Test the car and see how it is.

Good Luck.

Don
 
lube70 said:
Sounds like the throttle body is mis-adjusted. The adjustment screw on the butterfly flap (throttle stop) can become mis-adjusted. This means that the throttle will stay closed and when cold, will start OK, and when warm, will be hard to start.

Is the tuner file written to correct for the 42" injectors?????

If not, this can cause problems. Usually not the problems you have.


Try setting the screw for the throttle plate correctly.

Here is the procedure:

Start the car.

Disconnect the IAC connector from the IAC motor.

Turn the screw down that is by the IAC until it bottoms out.

Then unclip the throttle cable from the throttle body.

Then adjust the screw (it's an allen key) that stops the throttle stop.

Adjust it on the idle is about 700rpm for manual or auto.

Once this is done, reconnect the IAC connector and throttle cable.

Test the car and see how it is.

Good Luck.

Don

I will do that right away.

Thanks Don :)
 
You need to adj the Crank Fuel Pulsewidth for you'r new injector size. So if you have a 89-93 it would be 30/42 = .714 Then X that by all the pulse #s in the Crank Fuel Pulsewidth chart.
 
BKB said:
You need to adj the Crank Fuel Pulsewidth for you'r new injector size. So if you have a 89-93 it would be 30/42 = .714 Then X that by all the pulse #s in the Crank Fuel Pulsewidth chart.

I did that already. Should those #s be adapted to correct this situation?
 
wakinyantanka said:
I did that already. Should those #s be adapted to correct this situation?

99% of the time doing that I said is all i need to do. But sometimes you need to tweek them at a certin temp, I would look into other things first. Chances are you have a lean spot caused by a bad MAF Function table, if you have had it on a dyno W-WB and all seems good and you are happy with the way the car runs then go into the startup fuel table and richen it up till it starts the way you want. If you have to start it with it to the floor then its flooded and just lean it out at the temps you are having problems with. The 2 tables are the Crank Fuel Pulsewith & Startup Fuel Tables.
 
BKB said:
99% of the time doing that I said is all i need to do. But sometimes you need to tweek them at a certin temp, I would look into other things first. Chances are you have a lean spot caused by a bad MAF Function table, if you have had it on a dyno W-WB and all seems good and you are happy with the way the car runs then go into the startup fuel table and richen it up till it starts the way you want. If you have to start it with it to the floor then its flooded and just lean it out at the temps you are having problems with. The 2 tables are the Crank Fuel Pulsewith & Startup Fuel Tables.

It runs as strong as my brothers 02 lightning,( his own words after driving it today), so I guess I'll look at startup fuel tables. All I have to do on warm starts is crack the throttle ever so slightly and she starts right up. If I don't it will start but barely run. :confused:
 
wakinyantanka said:
It runs as strong as my brothers 02 lightning,( his own words after driving it today), so I guess I'll look at startup fuel tables. All I have to do on warm starts is crack the throttle ever so slightly and she starts right up. If I don't it will start but barely run. :confused:

There is also the ISC During Crank I have never had to increase this on any car, actually i usally reduce it so the motor dosen't rev up after a warm start. But if the problem isen't fuel related and just needs more air that will let more air threw the idle air control valve. This could be all messed up if you have a larger TB and either didn't adj your Desired Air Flow In Neutral or you just don't have the right #s in there.
 
BKB said:
There is also the ISC During Crank I have never had to increase this on any car, actually i usally reduce it so the motor dosen't rev up after a warm start. But if the problem isen't fuel related and just needs more air that will let more air threw the idle air control valve. This could be all messed up if you have a larger TB and either didn't adj your Desired Air Flow In Neutral or you just don't have the right #s in there.


I will look at those #s today if I get the chance.
Thanks for all your help. :)
 
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