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flying bird
10-18-2005, 06:32 PM
hey guy's i'm looking for a step by step on replacing the front brake pad's on my 93 5-speed.i've done brakes before ,but these look like a pain in the butt.what a surprise

lube70
10-18-2005, 07:17 PM
Procedure is as follows:

Jack car off the ground (use suitable jack and jackstands or other safety device).

Remove front wheel. (I suggest doing one side at a time, safer).

Remove the bolt (star socket) and remove.

Swing Caliper up and away from rotor. (stays on bolt with rubber cover).

Remove and replace pads. (add disc brake noise reducing compound on BACK of pads).

Compress caliper by using C-Clamp and old pad. If possible, open bleeder on caliper to let old fluid out.

Reinstall brake caliper (with new pads in it).

Reinstall wheel.

Lower car and repeat on other side.


Don

J dot Miller
10-18-2005, 07:37 PM
I suggest the following modification to that plan:

Before you jack up the car take the cover off the master cylinder and jam a clean rag into the top of the tank.

This way you will not need to open the bleeder when you press the LARGE C Clamp preventing a possible ~~~~ brake bleed job...

Just make sure you re-fill and replace the cover before pressing the brake pad.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v471/JdotMiller/DSC01351.jpg

flying bird
10-18-2005, 07:53 PM
hey thank's for the info .seem's pretty much the same as any other brake job i've done.although i was confused you take the tire off before you take off the brake's? hey i'm still looking for other member's in the portland oregon area

Mike8675309
10-18-2005, 08:43 PM
If you have to replace the rotors you'll need to pull the bracket off the knuckle too.

Oh, and get some silicone caliper slide pin lube to lube the slide pins.

Now would be a good time to pull the rear wheels and make sure the lower caliper slide pins are still sliding. The rubber boot gets torn and they like to freeze in the bracket. Make sure they move, make sure the boot is intact, and that there is plenty of lube.

Joisey Jim
10-19-2005, 12:25 PM
I would still bleed-off the fluid when you retract the pistons - it's easier and helps remove moisure in the fluid, which tends to build-up behind the piston and causes rust. Personally if you don't know the service history on the car then I'd 1).flush & replace all the fluid. 2). Get the rotors checked for thickness and cut/replace as necessary. 3). Lube the caliper pins and pad contact points/hardware clip.4). Grease the tie-rod ball joints while you've got the wheel off.
My 2cents

7birdslater
10-19-2005, 02:49 PM
Just dont let reading about it intimidate you. Thunderbird brakes are the easiest brakes ive ever messed with. I bought a bit that goes on a socket just for the caliper bolts, it allows a bigger wratchet and makes it very easy. Before that I just used an allen wrench with a bent cheater pipe slipped over it. The rotors are held on by the wheels so no need to mess with bearings or anything.
I could kick myself as I gave away two sets of fresh SC front rotors and pads when I thought I was done with Tbirds.......