ABS Mystery

zillion_03

Registered User
Ok leme start this with a few statments.

I searched and found the links to the abs page with the self test and what to check for in your abs system.

I ran threw all the checks. This is what i came up with. when i hit the brakes i get dummy lights for just a sec (abs and e-brake)
I pumped the brakes(20+)times with the car off key off, turned key on abs pump turned on for about a min then turned off once system is presurized.

with key in run hit brakes 1 time abs pump turns on then turns off. now i understand that this means that the accumulator ball is old and needs replacing. but also on the abs tech page it said that i would not have any rear brakes if the accumulator was bad i still have back brakes. so if i change the ball this should fix my dummy light? what about my pull?

next the car pulles to the left, so i changed the frount pads rotors changed rear brakes. still there. Under normal braking no pull( if i push brake pedal slow) if i push fast it pulls to the left. I tried to bleed brakes. the driver side bleed fine but the pass side it just dribbles out of the bleeder.no pressure. but the brakes engage. Im at a loss of what to do. Am i lumping several diff problems into one problem or is this a cause of 1 problem


thanks,
Nate
 
First things first...

Contact the folks at Prior Remanufacturing (www.priorreman.com) and order a new accumulator for a Teves Mark II ABS. Your pump is working overtime because the old accumulator is no longer able to maintain system pressure. This may (or may not) correct the other issues your are experiencing, but if you don't correct this problem soon you will lose the hydraulic pump all together. No pump=no brakes, so the other problems won't matter. After you install the new accumulator you may find that the "pull" was a result of insufficient system pressures. If it doesn't clear up at least you will have a properly functioning hydraulic unit which will allow you to test the calipers with the correct system operating pressure.
 
No Pump No Brakes??

LJGriggs said:
Contact the folks at Prior Remanufacturing (www.priorreman.com) and order a new accumulator for a Teves Mark II ABS. Your pump is working overtime because the old accumulator is no longer able to maintain system pressure. This may (or may not) correct the other issues your are experiencing, but if you don't correct this problem soon you will lose the hydraulic pump all together. No pump=no brakes, so the other problems won't matter. After you install the new accumulator you may find that the "pull" was a result of insufficient system pressures. If it doesn't clear up at least you will have a properly functioning hydraulic unit which will allow you to test the calipers with the correct system operating pressure.

Don't think you lose brakes if the pump stops working, you lose power brakes. Talked to one of my best friends who works on Ford ABS systems all the time for a Ford Dealer and the system is designed with fail safes included. You won't lose your brakes if the pump stops working, you only lose the power assist. It would be like driving an older car without power brakes. He was saying that Ford actually thought of this if the ABS system goes out (Fuse, Pump motor, Accumulator etc;) what happens to the brakes. It is "supposed" to revert back to standard brakes if you have a complete failure of the ABS system.

Smitty
 
Based on personal experience...

The SC may revert back to "non-assist" when the pump fails, but from my experience (having a pump fail while in traffic), it is basically the same as having no brakes. The pedal is so hard that it takes a lot of force with both feet to slow the car down. It's hardly the same as the standard hydraulic brakes from the old days. But, maybe my "near catastrophic" event was an exception...
 
Exactly!

LJGriggs said:
The SC may revert back to "non-assist" when the pump fails, but from my experience (having a pump fail while in traffic), it is basically the same as having no brakes. The pedal is so hard that it takes a lot of force with both feet to slow the car down. It's hardly the same as the standard hydraulic brakes from the old days. But, maybe my "near catastrophic" event was an exception...

You are exactly right!!

I should have stated also that it will in no way slow down in a hurry and you had better have speed skater legs to push the pedal hard enough to make them work very well. LOL ;)
 
ok thanks, but still im looking for a awnser for my questions. also anyone have a accumulator that is a few years old and still good for sale?
 
zillion_03 said:
ok thanks, but still im looking for a awnser for my questions. also anyone have a accumulator that is a few years old and still good for sale?

i think your better off buying a new one there not very expensive. and if its coming out of another car its alreaghty 10years old
 
something happend to dayand im not shure what to think about it.

I was driveing to work, and the check engine light comes on. im like uh oh what could this be. I get to work and look around i cant make anything out that would be wrong. i start the car light is gone. i drive it for a few mins it comes back on for like 30 sec then turns back off...... this is strange. anyone else had this happen? i don't have a code reader is there a way to get the codes ith out one?
 
well I don't like this.

I thought this was suposed to be a helpful web page. I posted my problem and all i get is nothing. no help with eather problem. Thanks for the help im gana go to another forum.
 
zillion_03 said:
well I don't like this.

I thought this was suposed to be a helpful web page. I posted my problem and all i get is nothing. no help with eather problem. Thanks for the help im gana go to another forum.
It can be helpful, but you also get what you pay for. ;) How much did you pay someone here to answer your questions?
 
Last edited:
zillion_03 said:
well I don't like this.

I thought this was suposed to be a helpful web page. I posted my problem and all i get is nothing. no help with eather problem. Thanks for the help im gana go to another forum.

no help with either problem? we all said ur abs accumulator
 
zillion_03 said:
well I don't like this.

I thought this was suposed to be a helpful web page. I posted my problem and all i get is nothing. no help with eather problem. Thanks for the help im gana go to another forum.

Sometimes you have to wait for the right person to see your question and respond with an answer... :rolleyes:

This isn't like AOL with 24 hour support..... ;)

Sometimes you have to be paitent....

Have you ever been fishing?

Your check engine light could be an 02 sensor....
 
Here's an answer to the CEL question...

I don't know how accurate this is, but the Owner's Manual says if the CEL comes on momentarily and then goes out, this is an indication the that EEC detected an "out of tolerance" reading from a sensor. The EEC will then attempt to make adjustments to bring the sensor back into range. If successful, the CEL will go out. That may be just some propaganda put into the manual, so the best thing to do is get a cheap code reader and check for any stored codes.
 
hrm the cel does it all the time come on for a few mins then go off.... its got a new crank and cam sensor. if it is the 02 what do those run?
 
it can be a million differant things, drive your car to auto zone they will put a code scanner on it for free, write down the codes that it throws out and post them here. and we can take the problem from there
 
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