Hey, guys! My '95 SC has a vacuum leak in the InterCooler plumbing. I suspect the top tube going into the I/C, but I'm not 100% certain. So I ordered the teflon gaskets from tbird88 (thanks, Wynn!) to seal all the joints, just to be on the safe side. So basically, I just wanted to know if any of you has any pointers, tips, advice, etc. to help me do this right. Thanks beforehand.
I Need I/C Help!
- Thread starter Wicked SC
- Start date
Mike8675309
Registered User
Have a knife handy to make slight adjustments to the mounting holes for the gaskets from Wynn. I had to make my holes slightly larger.
Also, I had to decrease the outer diameter of the IC Top gasket to get it to fit inside the nut.
Just some trimming.
Clean the mating surfaces well. Because you are not using a "flowable" gasket material, any imperfections (left over gasket) could create a path for a leak. I used some fine grit emery cloth to clean up all surfaces.
Don't bend the gaskets. Keep all connectors loose and tighten the big nut on the IC Top FIRST. Then position everything and tighten them down. You don't need to crank on them, just get them tight.
Tighten both sides of the clamps evenly so one side doesn't bind.
That's about it. Just be patient.
Also, I had to decrease the outer diameter of the IC Top gasket to get it to fit inside the nut.
Just some trimming.
Clean the mating surfaces well. Because you are not using a "flowable" gasket material, any imperfections (left over gasket) could create a path for a leak. I used some fine grit emery cloth to clean up all surfaces.
Don't bend the gaskets. Keep all connectors loose and tighten the big nut on the IC Top FIRST. Then position everything and tighten them down. You don't need to crank on them, just get them tight.
Tighten both sides of the clamps evenly so one side doesn't bind.
That's about it. Just be patient.
tbird88
Registered User
my bad...
I should post it on my webpage, but so far I've only mentioned it in individual emails to customers...
The bolt pattern can vary slightly from ic to ic. I have both an 89 auto & 5spd, the bolt pattern between them is different by almost 3/32". Not much, but enough that the bolt hole in the gasket needed to be elongated slightly to fit the 5spd car. Like I said, I usually mention it but haven't put a "disclaimer" etc on my webpage (yet).
On the collar nut gasket, you'll notice it has a beveled outer edge. That bevel should face towards the blower top, helps to keep it from fallin' out if you have to remove the top later. It also gives the gasket room/material to be compressed into position.
About cleaning the surfaces...goes without saying that you should, but removing every last nick/burr isn't absolutely necessary if ya can't get 'em all. To a certain extent, this type of Teflon conforms very good to surface imperfections.
Good luck on using them, hope they serve you well. I still run the same set that I ran at the strip in May, and have driven them on a 63-65 mile round trip every day to work....and I mean every day, I work 7-10s (ARGH!!!!)
hopin' for a layoff soon,
'bird
I should post it on my webpage, but so far I've only mentioned it in individual emails to customers...
The bolt pattern can vary slightly from ic to ic. I have both an 89 auto & 5spd, the bolt pattern between them is different by almost 3/32". Not much, but enough that the bolt hole in the gasket needed to be elongated slightly to fit the 5spd car. Like I said, I usually mention it but haven't put a "disclaimer" etc on my webpage (yet).
On the collar nut gasket, you'll notice it has a beveled outer edge. That bevel should face towards the blower top, helps to keep it from fallin' out if you have to remove the top later. It also gives the gasket room/material to be compressed into position.
About cleaning the surfaces...goes without saying that you should, but removing every last nick/burr isn't absolutely necessary if ya can't get 'em all. To a certain extent, this type of Teflon conforms very good to surface imperfections.
Good luck on using them, hope they serve you well. I still run the same set that I ran at the strip in May, and have driven them on a 63-65 mile round trip every day to work....and I mean every day, I work 7-10s (ARGH!!!!)
hopin' for a layoff soon,
'bird
Thanks everyone! Just a question, though. It IS possible to have a vacuum leak other that in the plumbing? I have noticed a little bit of "oil" around the top IC joint. My Boost gauge does not move at all anymore (it did when I first bought the car, so I know everything was working). No vacuum, no boost, the needle just sits there right at zero. Now if the gaskets don't help, where else can the leak be?
tbird88
Registered User
you say either, I say either...
Either the hose to your boost gauge isn't hooked up, it's broken/cut/worn through (leaking) or your gauge is busted.
Check the connection on the discharge plenum where the line connects while it's idling & see if there's vacuum...it's a longshot but the fitting might be clogged (I doubt it). Sounds like the gauge is simply bad (or the hose/tubing).
'bird
Either the hose to your boost gauge isn't hooked up, it's broken/cut/worn through (leaking) or your gauge is busted.
Check the connection on the discharge plenum where the line connects while it's idling & see if there's vacuum...it's a longshot but the fitting might be clogged (I doubt it). Sounds like the gauge is simply bad (or the hose/tubing).
'bird
Mike8675309
Registered User
The gaskets worked fine and were a plus for a first time IC tube remover. Since I had to tighten and untighten, reposition and generally just do the job 4 times before I had it right.
The main top gasket Certainly needed a trim of a good 1/16" all the way around to fit inside the threads of the nut.
At least that's the way I choose to install it. I placed the gasket into the bore of the nut and up against the top. Then inserted the IC tube and screwed it down. I tried it without trimming and would have had to force it dramatically without trimming.
Certainly not an issue.
The car is on the road today. I pulled it of the jackstands and verified fluids last night. Fixed my check gauges light, and drove it around last night and to work today.
Before motor mounts and spark plugs: Max PSI 11-12psi
After motor mounts and spark plugs and new gaskets: Max PSI 11-12psi.
In other words, they sealed up tight!
The main top gasket Certainly needed a trim of a good 1/16" all the way around to fit inside the threads of the nut.
At least that's the way I choose to install it. I placed the gasket into the bore of the nut and up against the top. Then inserted the IC tube and screwed it down. I tried it without trimming and would have had to force it dramatically without trimming.
Certainly not an issue.
The car is on the road today. I pulled it of the jackstands and verified fluids last night. Fixed my check gauges light, and drove it around last night and to work today.
Before motor mounts and spark plugs: Max PSI 11-12psi
After motor mounts and spark plugs and new gaskets: Max PSI 11-12psi.
In other words, they sealed up tight!
I know it's not the gauge, because I don't feel the extra "kick" when I stomp on the gas. In other words, the gauge doesn't register boost because I'm not getting any. The car is sluggish.
Hey, Wynn, you said to "check the connection on the discharge plenum where the line connects while it's idling & see if there's vacuum."
Where exactly is that?
Also, will it be necessary to completely remove the lower I/C tube to install the gaskets? I really don't want to take apart the whole top of the engine just to seal the tube, but I'll do what I have to do. Also, can I spray the tubes with non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean them before installation? Will that hurt anything? Thank you for your patience.
Hey, Wynn, you said to "check the connection on the discharge plenum where the line connects while it's idling & see if there's vacuum."
Where exactly is that?Also, will it be necessary to completely remove the lower I/C tube to install the gaskets? I really don't want to take apart the whole top of the engine just to seal the tube, but I'll do what I have to do. Also, can I spray the tubes with non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean them before installation? Will that hurt anything? Thank you for your patience.
tbird88
Registered User
Hey man, you said your gauge does not show vacuum or boost. The gauge has a hose that runs from the back of the instruments over a duct and towards the driverside firewall area to the lower left of the steering column. It passes through the firewall and runs to the plenum that the lower ic tube hooks to. Look near the air temp sensor (that big UGLY sensor that Ford just HAD to put in plain sight) on that plenum and you'll see a vacuum hose connected (I hope) the a nipple.
need a pic, I'll see if I have one or maybe someone else has one (?)
'bird
ps: I got my wish! Laidoff today, I actually get to sleep past 4:30am now...
need a pic, I'll see if I have one or maybe someone else has one (?)
'bird
ps: I got my wish! Laidoff today, I actually get to sleep past 4:30am now...
Thanks, Wynn. I went outside and checked. Guess what? That was exactly the problem!! The little hose was broken right at the nipple. I hooked it back up, and WOW!! Boost gauge is working now. Took the car for a spin around the block and that thing is got that "OOMPH" back. At idle it shows about 18, 19 inches of Mercury of vacuum. At WOT, though, I'm only getting about 9 or 10 psi's of boost. Everything is stock as far as I can tell, so should'nt I be getting about 14 psi's? So I do have a leak at the tubes, don't I? Or could it be because it's 100 degrees outside (at 9:45 PM). As soon as I shut off the engine, I heard that valve a'hissin' and a'puffin', so that's a good sign. Thanks for everything, and sorry to hear about your job. The good thing is that now your 'bird will rest a little more, as will you. Enjoy your time off!!
I GOT BOOST!!
I GOT BOOST!!
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