bucking

sanoe63

Registered User
My car starts to buck at wot. I have changed plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, fuel pump,and the iac. I really don't know what to do next. Could a cam sensor make it do this?
Thanks,
Scott
 
sanoe63 said:
My car starts to buck at wot. I have changed plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, fuel pump,and the iac. I really don't know what to do next. Could a cam sensor make it do this?
Thanks,
Scott


When my cam sensor went bad, it would crank over for a long time before it would start, or sometimes wouldn't start. Then I'd try it again and it would fire right up. Once it did start however it ran fine even at WOT. Finally it got real bad and would barely run at all and the tach didn't work. I think if the cam sensor is bad it would not JUST show up at WOT.

Do you have a leak in your intercooler tubes? I've heard that can cause the symptoms you have.... did you maybe remove for access to change the plugs and not get them sealed back up?

Also, any possibility you broke a plug putting them in? or maybe a wire isn't on all the way. Either of those could definitely run fine at idle or light throttle but cause a misfire and a 'bucking' under load at WOT.

Hope this helps.
 
When the cam sensor in my '95 went it would only buck under boost. I never had any starting issues. Before you go replacing parts, scan the computer for any stored codes though.
 
I have the same issue in my car. If I stay at 3/4 pedal it's fine if I go wot it starts to miss. The only code I have in my computer is lean.. The fuel pressure is fine. The plugs and wires should be okay. So here's my theory I may be off on this as I am not sure. I replaced the headgaskets, now I know antifreeze will mess up the 02 sensors. I am getting fairly bad mileage. I think the computer is feeding my car to much gas at wot. Looking at my tailpipes I can believe it. There is quite a bit of carbon in there more, then I think there should be.
Later
Shaun
 
I don't know if you solved your problem or not. But, if not, here goes: Does it buck when the boost gauge hits "0" or greater (into psi...boost)? If so (and you are not going to like me if this is the first time you changed plugs on a SC), you probably have a brand new plug that has a cracked insulator. I put Autolite double platinum's in and one of them was cracked. Replaced with motorcraft "G" double platinum's and all is well. FYI.
 
On a recommendation (and did the same for the motorcraft), I just took them out of the box and put them in. I checked the gap and they were all pretty close to .054, I think but don't quote me.
 
if youve recently ahd your engine rebuilt the camshaft could be off the d*ckheads that rebuilt mine did that and i chased the problem for 2 months and then dealt with a small claims lawsuit for 4 months after that (sorry my little bitch fest there) but check the postion if its been messed with for whatever reason it oculd cause the problem your describing (just kind of a last ditch effort kinda thing)
 
Thanks for all the help. Pulled the plugs out to check them and I found one cracked. I put a new plug and wire and now it runs very good!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks,
Scott
 
Bucking

I had all the same symtoms you discribed. Changed bad plug wire ( taylor) and no results, then cam sensor, No change , checked crank sensor ok. then on my way to work I was just saying how overall this is a good car and as soon as I said that she responded by bogging down. I turned the key started again and limped home. noticed the tach going wild. I said cant be brand new cam sensor. i remember reading in a few posts about a bad DIS mod. I just changed it out a year ago, but it was a standard brand. I had a old back up from pick a part but it was a Motorcraft. after installing it fired right up, took it out for a spin and leaned hard on it no problem. Took it up to 15 psi. no prob in 3 gears. So Im saying all this time it was a poorly made aftermarket POS module. Whatever you do whether its buy new or get used , get a motorcraft of ford original parts. They last.
 
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