Rear Brake line

Dragon

Registered User
The SC I just purchased needs the rear brake line fixed, It is cut about 3 inches out and away from the proportioning valve, The line looks as though it runs down and inside the lower firewall, Does the whole line have to be replaced or is there an easier way, Can I double flange the line and put a new piece in?
 
You can put in a splice, but if you do, make sure you do proper flares and fittings. Why not replace the whole line? That might be the easier way. You just have to confirm what fittings you have on the end.
 
I wouldn't mind replacing the whole line, But I haven't looked to see where the other end is connected, I went to a local wrecker to see if I could see how long it was on one of the wrecked SC's and to see where the line was connected underneath, But there was only one wrecked SC and everything was removed allready. With the the motor still in , replacing the whole line doesn't look like an easy job. This may sound like a stupid question because I haven't taken the time to crawl under the car, But Do you know where the rear brake line connects or how long the line is?
 
Hey there. I apologize for the long wait here, but it was Thanksgiving, so I didn't check in at all.

I took a look under my car. I didn't jack it up, but here's what I could see from ground level. The line comes from the ABS unit to the proportioning valve or whatever it is in the engine bay. Then that line dives down under the firewall and heads all the way back to just in front of the left rear wheel. I think there is a simple "T" block there with the same type of fitting, but I don't recall exactly. There are some little zigs and zags along the route to clear various obstacles. All in all, it's probably 10 or 12 feet of line.

If you get the pre-flared lengths of pipe with the fittings already installed, you could just get 2 lengths of about 5' or 6' and 1 union. Then, with the aid of a tubing bender, you can gently duplicate the existing bends and just plug the new one in place of the old.

The only caveat I have is that I am not absolutely sure of the fitting sizes. I think they should be 3/8-20 threads with a 10mm flare nut, but I can't guarantee that.
 
Thanks for the info, I fixed the line and don't look like its leaking, Now All I have to figure out, is how to bleed the whole ABS brake system. Let me see if I got this right,.... I will start by Pumping the peddle 20-25 times, (To clear the Vacume) then turning on the key, waiting for the accumulator to build pressure , open the bleeder screw on the RR wheel for ten seconds. (I will attach a small diameter tube to the bleeder screw and drop the hose into an old coke bottle, half filled with brake fluid, watch for air), repeat if necessary. before I move to the LR wheel, I will have to pump the brake peddle 20-25 times again and turn the key on again waiting for the accumulator to build pressure again. Once the air is out of the rear lines, I move to the RF wheel, Do it the old fashioned way by having someone pumping and holding the brake peddle, while I do the bleeding. Then lastly move to the LF (closest to the master cylinder)?
 
I am not the guy to ask about that. I know there is a special procedure for the ABS, but I totally forget what it is. Sorry. But, if you do a search, you will probably find it.
 
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