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View Full Version : Question for those who've done the ABS to conventional swap



Jeremy_K
11-26-2005, 02:40 PM
I'm about ready to begin this project but I have a question about the brake lines. Is it OK to cut and re-flare the stock brakelines to neaten up the job or do they have to be a specific length? I know a couple of you just coiled up the brakeline to take up the slack. The reason I'm asking is because my Dad just had to replace a brakeline on his 78 Ford pickup and the new brakeline came coiled from the parts store. The only thing I can think of would be that the front and rear need to be the same length so they have even line pressure. therefore, you would need to coil the front one up so it could be as long as the one that runs to the rear brakes. I just don't want ot hack up my brake lines so I figured I would ask first.

Ddubb
11-26-2005, 02:48 PM
They dont need to be any specific length, they can be as short as you want to run them.
Brake lines are coiled on older vehicles because they need to flex with the frame seperate from the body. Unibody cars dont need the coil for body flex.
- Dan

Jeremy_K
11-26-2005, 02:52 PM
Cool. Thanks for the quick response.

91ScDrIvEr
11-27-2005, 02:35 AM
Wait you guys can switch to regular brakes so i dont have to go looking for the abs and it would be cheaper this way? what woould i have to do to do the switch? is there a place in this forum like a DIY? Man this is awsome i cant find a abs for under $100!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1:)

tim
11-27-2005, 11:16 AM
Why not just go to manual brakes? Full size Bronco master with disc brakes is the piece to use. On my 1990 I lost probably 75 lbs when you ditch all the wiring and the computer in the back.:D

Jeremy_K
11-27-2005, 11:55 AM
Wait you guys can switch to regular brakes so i dont have to go looking for the abs and it would be cheaper this way? what woould i have to do to do the switch? is there a place in this forum like a DIY? Man this is awsome i cant find a abs for under $100!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1:)
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59901&highlight=switching+abs. If you buy a new vac. booster and crown vic master cylinder you're looking at a little over $100 to do the swap. Cheaper if you can get the parts from the junkyard. The link has all you need to know and pics.

devilboy
11-27-2005, 12:07 PM
I'm about ready to begin this project but I have a question about the brake lines. Is it OK to cut and re-flare the stock brakelines to neaten up the job or do they have to be a specific length? I know a couple of you just coiled up the brakeline to take up the slack. The reason I'm asking is because my Dad just had to replace a brakeline on his 78 Ford pickup and the new brakeline came coiled from the parts store. The only thing I can think of would be that the front and rear need to be the same length so they have even line pressure. therefore, you would need to coil the front one up so it could be as long as the one that runs to the rear brakes. I just don't want ot hack up my brake lines so I figured I would ask first.
I just did the conversion and also shortened the brake lines. the only thing is I do believe it is the rear brake line has a bubble flare. In order for it not to leak you need to redo the bubble flare or do a single flare (for those that want to argue with that can go ask a mechanic), because I had a hard time finding anybody that had a bubble flare kit and the one mechanic told me that he did that on his brother t-bird and it hasn't leaked.

Jeremy_K
11-28-2005, 01:17 PM
So I can't just use a traditional brake line flaring kit? I'm not familiar with a bubble flare. I don't think I've ever seen one. Aren't the lines just a single flare from the factory?

DazedNConfuzed
11-28-2005, 01:40 PM
The flare on the tube is inverted.

sizemoremk
11-29-2005, 04:55 AM
Yes there are 3 flaring types, single, double, and bubble.

The metric lines on new cars use bubble flares.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4572813888&category=43998

I have done this non-abs swap in cunjunction with a PBR calipers swap and it just don't feel right.

I would love to hear from others, but my pedal is really soft, and I've bled the mess out of them, as well as letting the shop do it as well. I am wondering of the booster may be bad or something, but it definately doesn't feel right.

Jeremy_K
11-29-2005, 12:07 PM
Yes there are 3 flaring types, single, double, and bubble.

The metric lines on new cars use bubble flares.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4572813888&category=43998

I have done this non-abs swap in cunjunction with a PBR calipers swap and it just don't feel right.

I would love to hear from others, but my pedal is really soft, and I've bled the mess out of them, as well as letting the shop do it as well. I am wondering of the booster may be bad or something, but it definately doesn't feel right.
did you measure the post that comes out of the booster and make sure it's the same length as the one on the crown vic? I know it's adjustable. Maybe yours isn't going far enough into the MC bore when you press the pedal.

sizemoremk
11-29-2005, 12:15 PM
did you measure the post that comes out of the booster and make sure it's the same length as the one on the crown vic? I know it's adjustable. Maybe yours isn't going far enough into the MC bore when you press the pedal.


I've adjusted it all the way in and out... I guess the plunger could be a different (shorter) length than the Viki's plunger???

devilboy
12-04-2005, 11:15 AM
Yes there are 3 flaring types, single, double, and bubble.

The metric lines on new cars use bubble flares.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4572813888&category=43998

I have done this non-abs swap in cunjunction with a PBR calipers swap and it just don't feel right.

I would love to hear from others, but my pedal is really soft, and I've bled the mess out of them, as well as letting the shop do it as well. I am wondering of the booster may be bad or something, but it definately doesn't feel right.
When i first converted my brakes I had a bunch of air and could not get a firm pedal. A buddy of mine that worked for mieneke stopped and found out that there was air trapped in the master cylinder. He also comented that I should change the way the right front brake line runs. He said that master cylinder should be the highest point of the brake system. He also suggested that I move the junction block for the front brakes down lower and closer to the frame rail.

sizemoremk
12-04-2005, 05:12 PM
When i first converted my brakes I had a bunch of air and could not get a firm pedal. A buddy of mine that worked for mieneke stopped and found out that there was air trapped in the master cylinder. He also comented that I should change the way the right front brake line runs. He said that master cylinder should be the highest point of the brake system. He also suggested that I move the junction block for the front brakes down lower and closer to the frame rail.


Well I even had firestone bleed the brakes, when they checked my alignment for the 5th time or so since I bought their lifetime alignment... I guess this is why they sell he lifetime alignment, they know you'll probbaly have them do something else when you bring it back... 30 bucks for a 10 minute brake bleedin' they can't be doing that bad....

As for the line routing, when I swap egines in another month or so, I'll be rerouting and replacing that junction block/prop. valve more towards the bottom of the compartment, it looks crapppy where it's at now. I have the bubble flaring tool, so I can pretty much re-do the front lines alltogether...

So how would you identify air in the MC??? I guess I can re-hook the fittings up and "bench bleed" it again... But is air in the MC easily noticed???