questions about installing a new traction-lok

90blkbrd

Registered User
1. What all is needed to install a new read differential FRPP M-4001-M373.

2 new circlips
2 new bushings - Do I get these from Ford for $50 or from mn12performance?
3.25 pints of 75w90 ???
4 oz friction modifier

I've searched, but not very hard. Any help on removal and installation would also be helpful.

Thanks

Michael
 
Looks like you have it covered already. Check your wheel bearings while you have it apart.
 
XR7 Dave said:
Looks like you have it covered already. Check your wheel bearings while you have it apart.

By the way who sells those wheel bearings and how much they cost!? I haven't seen anyone sell them...
 
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90blkbrd said:
2 new bushings - Do I get these from Ford for $50 or from mn12performance?
3.25 pints of 75w90 ???
Has anyone gotten the bushing from Ford? My local dealership says they are absolete. Also is that the correct weight for the fluid?

Thanks
 
i think 75-90 is probably right, but doesn't the pumpkin say. It is probably in your owners manual as well.

You can do it with just removing one half shaft but I wouldn't recommend it, as it is more of a pia then just pulling both. Just take off the top spindle bolts and pull it down out of the way, the halfshafts should pop out with them. Otherwise just take a flat blade screw driver and pop them out at the diff.
 
What bushing? There are bearings inside the diff for the axles. They are available from most gear shops or the dealer.
Alan
 
Does a FRPP center section come with fluid in it?

I went to put the first pint in, then the friction modifier, then the rest of the fluid.

I didn't get a pint in and it overflowed. What do I do now?
 
Use a 21 tooth speedo gear. I don't know if the pumpkin is shipped with lube already installed, but I doubt it. If it were my car I'd drain it and start over to insure the proper mix of gear lube and friction modifier.

David

PS: Be sure to use a drop of loctite on each of the bolts that hold the driveshaft on and get them real tight.
 
I have the 21 tooth gear, but I didn't get it installed yet. I will finish up next Saturday.

I woke up this morning and had decided that was the only safe way to guarantee the fluid in the differential.

Car is totally ready to be driven except for the above stuff.

Should I remove the bolts on the drive shaft and put on the loctite? They are torqued to the top at the top of the specified range, 100 FT LBS I believe.
 
One more thing. I guess I am not very good at reading directions. My Ford manual said I should put paint marks on the lower control arm bushings and then align them back up. This will avoid premature wear of something. (I left the manual at the shop with the car) Does this mean premature wear of the bushing or tires. Should I get it aligned now?

Any help or opinions would be great!
 
90blkbrd said:
One more thing. I guess I am not very good at reading directions. My Ford manual said I should put paint marks on the lower control arm bushings and then align them back up. This will avoid premature wear of something. (I left the manual at the shop with the car) Does this mean premature wear of the bushing or tires. Should I get it aligned now?

Any help or opinions would be great!

I've never heard anything about paint marks on the control arm bushings. Since they are bolting back to the same place they were unbolted from, I don't really see how it could have any impact on the allignment.

David

PS: Yes..I would add loctite to the driveshaft bolts.
 
Re: Paint Marks

David Neibert said:
I've never heard anything about paint marks on the control arm bushings. Since they are bolting back to the same place they were unbolted from, I don't really see how it could have any impact on the allignment. David
Dave, I bought new UCA's for my car. The OEM inner bushings are an eccentric design. Paint marks are used to ensure that the bushing doesn't move (rotate) if they are reinstalled.

When replaceing the UCA's like I'm doing, I guess I'll need to realign the rear geometry.

68COUGAR
 
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