View Full Version : intake manifold max height (custom)

12-26-2005, 08:27 PM
I figured, there's been a few guys messing around with modified stock intake manifolds and am giving it a try myself. the one question I have is how high can i raise the blower to achieve the most manifold volume and still be able to fit under a stock hood, with cutting out some of the hood crossmembers that is.;)
For that matter, how high have some of you raised your manifolds without concern of hitting the stock hood? (extra space of an aftermarket hood)
I would measure the workable distance on my engine but with a busted motor mount I know I will be getting an inaccurate measurement. so if any of you guys know the distance between the stock or raised top and the hood with good motor mounts I would appreciate this info greatly.:cool:
Thanks for any info!

12-26-2005, 10:17 PM
Ask Randy Baker he is the intake man!

12-27-2005, 10:43 AM
go all 80's on it.

raise it way up and cut a hole in the hood! MAD MAX!

12-27-2005, 06:31 PM
My engine sits a bit higher than most, so I only have about an inch to play with.

A manifold mod is an excellent modification, if you are ready for it. In it's stock configuration, it is matched very well to the heads. Even ported heads still using stock valves. In order to get the benifit of a raised manifold you should put it on a heavily modded SC. Otherwise you will no see any gain from a larger manifold with stock heads. I haven't looked at your member page (if you have one) to see what mods you've done. I'm speaking more for informational purposes.

A modded manifold will not gain you anything without the engine being able to take advantage of the increased breathing capacity the manifold would allow for. This HAS been dyno proven.

Now, on to your questions...the manifold that I've been slowly working on is raised to the point that the top of the runners is even with the top of the manifold. Put a flat edge across the manifold and that's how "tall" mine is. You won't be able to run a raised top with that manifold and you will have to also raise the intake plenum to match the inlet plenum. These are all things to keep in mind as you are modding your manifold.

I've got a raised hood going on in 2 weeks, so I'm not at all concerned about my eventual engine height. I would suggest that you get your motor mounts replaced first, then measure for you height restriction, unless you are planning a raised hood.

12-27-2005, 09:18 PM
I made mine almost even with top of ports and it cleared hood on my 92 then I made it into a inverted manifold but you can get by at top of manifolds use the shorter engine mounts I got some from kragen and they were 1/3 inch shorter than the ones I got from ford

12-27-2005, 10:03 PM
Thanks everyone for the info, I tore into it for the better part of the day today and got all the existing manifold top cut off and fabricated a plate to put on it. I decided to raise the blower 5/8" and keep the little valley the mainifold has in it to make room for where the intake plentinum bolts to the back of the blower (since it's the lowest part of the blower). I just bent up the cover plate in the press brake and kept it as snug as I could to the bottom of the blower.
I believe I'm going to be getting a raised hood in the near future and the busted motor mounts are going to be replaced when i put in my worked engine (see pic:D ) I may try to find the slightly shorter mounts as well.
As far as raising the return plenium as well, why? just to make the bypass tube line up with the bypass valve? if that's the only reason I'm just going to relocate the recieving end of the bypass upwards a little more. This way I won't be messing up the angle at which the lower I/C tube mates to it. I think I may run into problems with the throttle body hitting the hood as well, but thanks to Manny's post on the inlet plentinum he customised I'll probably be doing something similar and when I do that I can just adjust the angle of it to give it a bit more clearance.
I think my engine would benifit from this mod as the engine in the picture has mildly ported heads with bowl work, stock springs and valves and a comp cam with a grind of 210/220 @ .050" so I think it will be a good move, and if I don't like the way it performs I'll just throw the stocker back on it. The only thing i'm wasting is time on it, just a project to keep me busy on my time off from work.
Thaks again for everyone's input on this, unfortunately I don't have my digital camera but will post some pics once I get it done, untill then you can look at a pic of my motor!:cool: