Master Cylinder??

Darkangelo23

Registered User
The mechanic is telling me that the master cylinder has gone bad now. I was rolling up to a stop sign and breaks went stiff (not to the floor). He said there was a lot of leakage underneath the car. He was saying that that his computer lists the part as $2,100!!! Does this sound right. Someone on this site has offered to sell me theirs (the whole master cylinder assembly with ABS and all). He says I can just bolt it on after I take mone off. $350 plus $29 shipping. Does this sound right. How much would it be to install this in my car? Does anybody sell remanufactured master cylinders? Any help is needed here. I think Im booting this car to the curb. For once the car runs ok and now this crud with the breaks.

Thanks
Nick
 
For remans go to Prior Reman:

www.priorreman.com

Many have used their parts and with good results.

There are several things that may be wrong with the ABS system for the hard pedal condition. But if there are leaks that could be a problem that requires replace or rebuild of the master cylinder.


The $2K from Ford is the price for their new ones, if you can get it! Used parts are just that, used. Hard to say how long it will last. If you do go used, you may want to replace the accumulator as they often go bad just from sitting. Ford or Prior Reman will have that part.
 
what part

Do you know the part number or what the exact name of the part is? Master Cylinder, and you said maybe the accumulator too?
 
Some additional info (long)

If you have an SC model yrs '89 thru '92, then you have the "Teves Mark II" ABS. Later model yrs have the "Teves Mark IV". There is no accumulator on the later model. The unit from Prior will cost you around $400.00 plus a refundable core charge. It comes with a new accumulator (and has a 3-yr warranty I think). Installation is realatively easy. If you have ever changed your sparkplugs on the SC, then this job is a breeze.

Now, as far as the diagnosis of your current unit, The leakage is probably coming from either the connecting hose between the reservoir and the pump, or from the hydraulic pressure sensing switch (located on the bottom of the pump). Since you have a "hard pedal" it would probably be the pressure switch. These range in cost from around $90.00 to $175.00 depending on who you ask. Finding one in stock at the dealership can be somewhat difficult. I personally didn't have any luck so I went ahead and got the whole system from Prior.

Another cause of a "hard pedal" is the ABS Pump (or brown pump) relay located next to the firewall on the passenger side. Hard pedal is also caused by a failure of the hydraulic pump. This is generally the result of a failed accumulator that hasn't been replaced which causes the pump to cycle every time you depress the brake pedal. You will know the accumulator is bad when you get the Brake and ABS warning lights flashing in sequence whenever you push the brake pedal.

If you decide to replace the entire unit yourself, I will be happy to give you some pointers on how its done.....
 
Ok, this Kid has an 89 SC with a blown piston. He said he would sell me the complete Master Cylinder assembly, with the ABS for $300, but he started at $400.

I have a question for you. What are the list of parts I would need to replace the whole assembly like you are saying (accumulator Once again I am going on what the mechanic is saying and he hasn't been that clear about the problem. He stated that there is a lot of leakage, etc. related to master cylinder or other things. I would really appreciate any information you have to offer me on replacing the entire assembly.

Another question for you. When you refer to "unit from Prior" does this include the accumulator? What does "the unit" consist of. Is it just the master cylinder? Please help.

Nick
 
On the early ABS systems you have a hydraulic actuation assembly (master cylinder and ABS in one), electric pump with accumulator and a solenoid valve block assembly. The pump fills the accumulator with pressurized brake fluid for power assist and ABS action. The solenoid valve controls the whole mess.

The reman unit I believe has the rebuilt hydraulic actuation assembly, solenoid, pump and new accumulator. I would imagine that they would rebuild any part you needed. For the $400 and warrantee you may just want to send in your unit (less reservoir) once you have determined that the relays and switches as Larry mentioned are in good shape.
 
What you get from Prior

When you order a rebuilt Teves Mark II ABS from Prior, you get the complete ABS Hydraulic Pump assembly with a tested pressure switch, a new Accumulator installed, and it even comes with the reservoir. All you need to do is disconnect the electrical connections, brakelines, etc. from your old unit, disconnect the clip that attached the brake pedal to the actuator pushrod, unscrew the 4 nuts on the mounting studs that extend through the firewall. Installation is the reverse.

In a nutshell, you get everything but the rotors, calipers, wheel sensors, relays, brakelines, and computer.
 
master...hello Medina

I had the same problem...I replaced the long tube structure the reservoir sits on, junkyard...sorry ..wrecking yard for 75.00. Now the master is gone...the acutator rod has become dislodged from the clip inside the master. I'm trying to find out if I need to replace the master or if the rod and spring can be replaced?


Medina...How's the hill?
From Rootstown..now Boston
 
That is correct.....

the '93 and later model SC's have the "Teves Mark IV" ABS, which does not use an accumulator.....
 
Master cylinder

I put a bottle of brake fluid in the reservoir and now the brakes are working fine. To bad I spent $110 getting it towed everywhere. It looks like the leak may be slow because there are no puddles underneath the car yet. There is some white smoke that comes up through the hood from the passenger (left) side of the engine, but I can't see where it's coming from. Does anyone have an idea of what this smoke might be from?

Thanks,
Nick
 
possible

I guess anythings possible. How do I tell? Its towards the back of the engine, not near the radiator. Im still sure its brake fluid hitting something hot but just cant see it.
 
For Mike

The 93 up do use vacuum assist on the brakes. The ABS is completely different from the early models. It is an external unit that is not tied to the master cylinder.
 
The heater core is in the passenger compartment. Thus the heater hose passes through the firewall near the rear of the engine on the passenger side.

You check it by probably getting under the car with a light and looking up. You can see up towards the top much easier that seeing down. (Like i saw the leak in my valve cover gasket... :( )

Monitor your coolant level. It will go down if it's leaking.
 
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