How important is the 3-4 accumulator in the AOD?

Most of em I see don't have it. As long is it has the A servo you're ok. I believe different valvebodies used the accumulator.
Alan
 
I have seen many with and many without depandent on car and year. It is valvebody related and probably wouldnt be a good idea to add one if not already there. I do recall shift kit instructions for the AOD mentioning that some transmisions may not have the 3-4 accumulator valve setup. Havnt done one in over 10 years but I bet Alan could even get deeper into why it is good or not good to have one. Or the Tcco Jerry writups propaly dwell into it some
 
Ok, well that is good news. I am not an AOD guy, that is for sure.

This tranny has been problems from day 1 and it's been getting worse.

Initial symptoms were very early shift points. Most of the time it never even hit 2nd at all and under light throttle it would hit 3rd by 18mph or so. WOT would get you about 3000rpm shifts.

I tried adjusting the TV cable, and in desperation I set it so tight that the throttle will only go half way. Still shifts about the same, a little firmer and maybe 500rpm later.

History on the tranny says that it has an Art Carr kit in it of some sort. When it does shift it definitely shifts firmer than it would stock but it just shifts way too early. It will lug the motor down to 800rpm in 3rd.

Anyway, so the car sat for 6 mo and when I went to drive it again the tranny is taking forever to engage any gears and it slips terribly. Fluid is right up and its nice an clean and bright red. No sign of burning - I'm real careful with the car and I haven't driven it but around the block since the slipping started.

So I pulled the pan last night. Seems it has a shift kit in it because there is this copper line jumping from one place to the next and it was really loose. Another member told me that is part of a shift kit and suggested that it probably shouldn't be loose. Think that might be the problem or should I keep looking? I have another valve body here which I could put in but I'd like to keep the shift kit if the problem is easy to fix....
 
XR7 Dave said:
So I pulled the pan last night. Seems it has a shift kit in it because there is this copper line jumping from one place to the next and it was really loose. Another member told me that is part of a shift kit and suggested that it probably shouldn't be loose. Think that might be the problem or should I keep looking? I have another valve body here which I could put in but I'd like to keep the shift kit if the problem is easy to fix....

Dave,

I don't remember seeing a copper line on my Art Carr VB, but I definitely have one on the Lentech VB. Are you sure it's an Art Carr? Regardless, I'm pretty sure that line is redirecting fluid and is under pressure....being loose, would be a bad thing.
 
Kurt K said:
Dave,

I don't remember seeing a copper line on my Art Carr VB, but I definitely have one on the Lentech VB. Are you sure it's an Art Carr? Regardless, I'm pretty sure that line is redirecting fluid and is under pressure....being loose, would be a bad thing.

That copper line is also added with a TransGo shift kit, and it definately should be tight. John
 
How long has the car been sitting prior to you noticing from "day one" it had issues. When I had the AOD in my 90 rebuilt due to the failure, when taking with the guy that rebuilt it, he pointed out that the trans was having problems outside of the failure as well.

This was due to it sitting for many months (at least 6, if not 18) causing the internal seals to dry up on the top, and stay soft near the bottom (where they sit in fluid).

He suggested when storing to fire up the motor and run through the gears once a month when storing the vehicle to keep the seals in good shape.

It made sense, and I looked through the seals pulled out of it and you could really see where the fluid level mark was that the seal was o.k., and where it was terribly hard.
 
Mike8675309 said:
How long has the car been sitting prior to you noticing from "day one" it had issues. When I had the AOD in my 90 rebuilt due to the failure, when taking with the guy that rebuilt it, he pointed out that the trans was having problems outside of the failure as well.

This was due to it sitting for many months (at least 6, if not 18) causing the internal seals to dry up on the top, and stay soft near the bottom (where they sit in fluid).

He suggested when storing to fire up the motor and run through the gears once a month when storing the vehicle to keep the seals in good shape.

It made sense, and I looked through the seals pulled out of it and you could really see where the fluid level mark was that the seal was o.k., and where it was terribly hard.

Which seals were we talking about here? I don't want to pull the tranny but I'll replace everything that's accessible from the bottom. It certainly acts like dried out seals. I've ordered a seal kit and when it gets here tomorrow I'll be looking to see what I can replace.
 
Mike8675309 said:
How long has the car been sitting prior to you noticing from "day one" it had issues. When I had the AOD in my 90 rebuilt due to the failure, when taking with the guy that rebuilt it, he pointed out that the trans was having problems outside of the failure as well.

This was due to it sitting for many months (at least 6, if not 18) causing the internal seals to dry up on the top, and stay soft near the bottom (where they sit in fluid).

He suggested when storing to fire up the motor and run through the gears once a month when storing the vehicle to keep the seals in good shape.

It made sense, and I looked through the seals pulled out of it and you could really see where the fluid level mark was that the seal was o.k., and where it was terribly hard.

Hmmm, maybe this is answer to all of my transmission problems. My car definitely sits for months at a time over winter. Maybe, just maybe, there is hope for my AOD.
 
When I had the tranny in my Bird rebuilt,including the TransGo, he told me one thing, fluids, fluids, fluids!!! Especially for those of you with enough power to drive your cars hard. Mine sits almost all winter now, and he recommended the same thing. Fire it up, move it a bit. BTW Dave, she runs fine since the tune. TY. Hope to see you in the summer.
 
Dave, if you do pull the tranny apart please let us know what you find. I would suggest retorquing the valvebody at the very least. I haven't had any problems with my 89SC AOD, but have yet to have any luck getting one to work correctly in my nephew's 90 SC. Been through three rebuilds and on an Art Carr from SuperCoupe Performance and it's still not right. Best of luck to you. People on here made fun of Randy Baker and his AOD woes, but I have been in the same boat.

Automatics either work perfect or they are in need of rebuild not much inbetween. It seems once something isn't right with the pressures or the release points are out of sync the clutches go quick.


Jerry
 
I think whatever was wrong with it before, it's probably in need of a rebuild now.

Some diags from Ford for the AOD:
MUSHY AND/OR EARLY UPSHIFTS OR UPSHIFT PILEUP
  1. Improper fluid level.
  2. Improperly adjusted, sticking, or damaged throttle linkage.
  3. Low main control pressure.
  4. Valve body bolts improperly torqued.
  5. Valve body valve or throttle control valve sticking.
  6. Sticking governor valve.

ENGINE OVERSPEEDS ON 2-3 SHIFT
  1. Improperly adjusted linkage.
  2. Oil pressure control system or improper band or clutch application.
  3. Damaged or worn high clutch and/or intermediate servo.
  4. Cut or leaking intermediate servo piston seals.
  5. Dirty valve body or sticking valves.
  6. Broken converter damper and/or hub

FORWARD ENGAGEMENT SLIPS, SHUDDERS, AND/OR CHATTERS
  1. Improper fluid level.
  2. Improperly adjusted or damaged linkage.
  3. Low main control pressure.
  4. Valve body bolts improperly torqued.
  5. Valve body dirty or valves sticking.
  6. Forward clutch piston check ball leaking and/or not seating.
  7. Cut and/or worn forward clutch piston seal.
  8. Leaking forward clutch stator support seal rings Nos. 3 and 4.
  9. Damaged low one-way clutch (planetary).

There's a whole list of diagnosis by symptom.
Diagnosis By Symptom
. All Upshifts Early
. Engine Overspeeds on 2-3 Shift
. Erratic Shifts
. Forward Engagement Slips/Shudders/Chatters
. Harsh Downshift Coasting Clunk
. Harsh and/or Delayed 2-3 Upshift
. Harsh and/or Delayed 3-4 Upshift
. Harsh Engagements With Warm Engine
. Initial Drive In 2ND or 3RD
. Initial Engagement Clunk W/Engine Warm
. Mushy and/or Early Upshifts or Upshift Pileup
. Mushy, Early, Soft, and/or Slipping 1-2 Upshift
. No Drive, Slips/Chatters In 1ST Gear In OD or D
. No Drive, Slips/Chatters In 2ND Gear
. No Engine Braking In Manual 2ND
. No Forced Downshifts
. No or Delayed Reverse Engage/No Engine Braking In Manual Low
. No or Delayed Forward Engagement
. No or Delayed Reverse Engagement
. No 1-2 Upshift
. No 2-3 Upshift
. No 3-4 Upshift
. Poor Vehicle Acceleration
. Reverse Shudders, Chatters, and/or Slips
. Rough Initial Engagement
. Rough or Mushy 4-2 or 3-1 Shift
. Rough Shudder 3-1 Shift at Closed Throttle In Overdrive
. Rough, Harsh, and/or Delayed 1-2 Upshift
. Shift Efforts High
. Shift Hunting 3-4 or 4-3
. Shift Points Incorrect
. Shift 1-3 In Overdrive
. Slipping 4TH Gear
. Slow Initial Engagement
. Soft, Early, and/or Mushy 2-3 Upshift
. Transmission Clunk or Squawk During 1-2 or 2-3
. Transmission Leaks
. Transmission Noisy (Other Than Valve Resonance)
. Transmission Noisy (with Valve Resonance)
. Transmission Overheats
. Vehicle Will Not Start
 
Shockwave said:
People on here made fun of Randy Baker and his AOD woes, but I have been in the same boat.
For the record, I never made fun of Randy Baker! I think I had tranny problems before he had a SC.


Mike8675309 said:
Mushy, Early, Soft, and/or Slipping 1-2 Upshift
So Mike, what's the verdict for this symptom?
 
I pulled the VB, bolts were not torqued right. Most were over-tightened. Plus the aforementioned leaking bypass tube. I've pulled a stock valvebody from another transmission that hasn't been futsed with and I'll try that. I'm replacing the gaskets and seals that I can get to from the bottom and I'm thinking that should take care of it.

In my case I think the VB is the source of the problem. I also found a piece of old gasket material in one of the passages and remnants of gasket on the seperator plate that weren't cleaned off from before. I swear one of the check balls was in the wrong place also but I'm not sure anymore.

I don't think it has any burned clutches or bands. The fluid was clean and clear and it has very few miles on it since the work was done.

I'll post when I get it back together.
 
Dave I have a couple certificates from Lentech.
Len sent me for chrismas.I can send them to you
if you are thinking of going this route. I have 2,
I think they are for $100.00 each.

I have a 7.5" , 3000 stall convertor I have been
thinking about selling, Its a lentech,new. I don't
think you would want it if you plan any street driving.

Randy
 
Last edited:
Back
Top