Can I hone the BHJ with this:? (pic inside)

CaifanSC

SCCoA Member
I need to hone my BHJ slightly to fit my crank and I was thinking if I can use a drill and something like this:

grn27029003.jpg


...pic is of a larger one, the one im looking at is craftsman, comes with a 240 grit stone and extends only up to a 2" diameter.

I used a digital dial caliper and got the following measurements:

crank: 1.375"
BHJ: 1.366"

To get the recomended clearance of .001"-.0015" i need to hone the BHJ to 1.374"-1.3735".
 
Looks like it will work.

But I would just take a grider to the crank till I got it right>:D
 
Those brake hones do wonders. I use them for curing scratches in lifter bores or the bronze sleeves.

Go for it, but I don't really think it will take much metal out, hence the name "hone." It might also have problems getting past the keyway groove also.
 
Old should Morph into NEW

CMac89 said:
Those brake hones do wonders.
I thought Brake Hone too, but I'm an Old Guy. Maybe it's time we just call them: Cyclinder Hones. What's the difference between a Cyclinder Hone, & a brake hone? Size & Grit ONLY!!!!!

68COUGAR
 
CMac89 said:
It might also have problems getting past the keyway groove also.

That's what I was thinking. The stones on that thing would most likely catch in the groove. If that happens I would think you would be risking damage to the balancer.

Tracy
 
68COUGAR said:
What's the difference between a Cyclinder Hone, & a brake hone? Size & Grit ONLY!!!!!

68COUGAR
The cylinder hones are alot bigger for use on engines. The brake hone is more along the lines of small precision holes.
 
I thought maybe filling the keyway with some RTV and letting it dry. That should fill up the keyway and perhaps allow for the hone to move freely...what do u guys think?
 
That MIGHT work.... as long as the RTV stays in place and it doesn't fill up or "clog" the abrasive stones. I PERSONALLY wouldn't risk it cuz if that thing catches in the keyway slot it may nick and/or scar the inside surface that you are trying to hone out. I would just use a fine grit flap wheel as others around here have said they have done with success. Besides... I would think a flap wheel would be cheaper anyways.


Tracy
 
Bad Advice is WORSE than no advice

XR7inWI said:
That MIGHT work.... as long as the RTV stays in place and it doesn't fill up or "clog" the abrasive stones. Tracy
It's never good to encourage a young SC kid, to do something DISASTERIOUS!!!!

BTW: you forgot to tell the kid, that you were JOKING!

68COUGAR
 
68COUGAR said:
It's never good to encourage a young SC kid, to do something DISASTERIOUS!!!!

BTW: you forgot to tell the kid, that you were JOKING!

68COUGAR

:confused: :confused: encourage him to do something "disastrous"?
I PERSONALLY wouldn't risk it cuz if that thing catches in the keyway slot it may nick and/or scar the inside surface that you are trying to hone out.
That don't look like much encouragement to me. And there was no "joking" involved. I would either use a flap wheel as has been done by several around here with no ill effect or I would take it to a machine shop and have it done.

All that needs to be removed is enough to enlarge the inside diameter .008" (at most). That means only .004" of material needs to be removed. You could ALMOST do that by hand with a piece of sandpaper, but that would not only take a while, it would not remove material evenly and IMO would quite likely cause problems. A fine grit flap wheel of the right diameter, spun at slow speed should work just fine.


Tracy
 
You guys think i can use a flap wheel with a drill? I saw people using a flap wheels but with die grinders. I dont have immediate access to one, just a drill. If so...what grit?
 
flap wheel wont apply even pressure:rolleyes: , try a hone, if it does catch the keyway, maybe fill it with ummm something that dries hard, but not impossible to remove, maybe contact cement?, cant let it stick past the existing surface
 
CaifanSC said:
I used a digital dial caliper and got the following measurements:

crank: 1.375"
BHJ: 1.366"

To get the recomended clearance of .001"-.0015" i need to hone the BHJ to 1.374"-1.3735".


Did you measure the crank snout in multiple places, towards the end, near where the balancer will sit, and at different points around the snout? you'll want to have it set to fit where it sits, but you'll want to know if there is runout along it's length that you'll need to contend with.

A hone should work. you should be able to pickup an extra key or two, grind it down to be flush when glued into the keyway with some silicone and that should keep the hone from catching.
 
If you are going to hone it, be very careful when you start and use as little pressure on the stones as you can.....

You will take a lot of material out at the beginning of the honing process due to the "record groove" left there by the BHJ machining process....
 
Several years back when I first got my BHJ, I used a small cylinder hone on a drill with no problems. It was the type used for honing the cylinder in lawnmower engines. I don't recall having any problems with the honing stones catching in the keyway. Be sure not to remove too much material. Hone a little, measure the bore, repeat until it is right. Remember, the balancer is intended to be a tight fit onto the crank.
 
Im going to give it a try with the hone then....are these 'line' type stones ok or are there smaller 'ball' type hones that I can look for?
 
Ok, is there a specific grit stone i should buy?

what im going to do is try to hone out an old snapped balancer i have laying around. That should give me an idea of how to attempt doing it on the bhj.
 
The more coarse the grit the better, but it is a hone and not a grinder so you won't be able to find coarse only fine.

You can look into buying an extrude hone. Exhaust manifold classes in drag racing use these to port manifolds. It's designed a little different.

RTV filling won't work because the hone will eat right through any direction it wants to take. Maybe JB Weld, but I won't encourage you to do that in the least.:)
 
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