how do you test the coil pack

langwilliams

Registered User
I have a 89 xr7 that wont run, it tries to start but wont...i replaced the cam sensor an it still wont run....is there a way to test the coil pack without a code reading computer?

thanks
 
You could use an ohm-meter to test it. You can get one for say $10 at auto parts stores, Radio Shack (Bit more $$ here?), etc.

I will say these coil packs are pretty good units, and I bought one before for $60 only to find out that wasn't the problem. Maybe your your crank sensor or DIS went bad? Does your tach jump around when turning the engine over? Do you have fuel pressure?
 
i never had trouble with coil pack or dis i would look at crank sensor or harmonic balancer or plugs or fuel pump
 
Last edited:
langwilliams said:
I have a 89 xr7 that wont run, it tries to start but wont...i replaced the cam sensor an it still wont run....is there a way to test the coil pack without a code reading computer?

thanks

To check the coil, go to AZ or someother parts store and ask them for the ohm specs for you coil pack, then get an ohm meter and check out the primary and secondarys. I know AZ does this, but if you dont trust the person doing it, just ask them for the ohm meter and specs and do it yourself, simple as that. The AZ part number for the coil pack is a C901, i beleive, i used to know the ohm specs, but i forgot those. Then, check to see if you can find a place to test the ignition control module, if those 2 check out, check the fuel pressure with a PRESSURE GAUGE, pushing down on the shrader valve tells you nothing but theres fuel in the fuel rail.


Derek
 
Been trying to find the ohm specs on alldata with no luck? Can't seem to find them anywhere else either....
 
If they try and sell you a new coil pack cause yours is "Below specs", have them test the new one in the box before you purchase it. If the new one is also "Below specs", than I would think yours is fine.
In other words my Haynes Manual says specs are suppose to be between "X" and "Y" but the old coil pack was within the same specs as the brand new one. So I ended up with a new part, minus $60 out of my wallet, and still had same problem.
 
dis

thanks for the info on the coil packs....what is a "dis"....i'm new to this...i'm a 5.0 mustanger primarily, this xr7 is for my son....i changed the cam sensor, while checking out the balancer, there was a cover under it that was loose, could this be causing a prob with the crank sensor?
 
DIS means "Distributorless Ignition System". The engine uses a combo of a cam sensor, ignition module, and coil pack to replace the distributor and TFI ignition module that the older Birds had.

In this case, I think the poster is referring to the ignition module when he says DIS. That is the flat, small gray or black box mounted above the A/C compressor.

My ignition module went bad last year. The car went from fine to almost dying instantly, then back to fine. A couple days later, it died for good. Swapping the ignition module brought it back to life.

Oh, by the way, I had engine codes when the module went bad. The code was something like "Coil Pack Circuit 2 failure", so I, too, bought a new coil pack. I should have tested it first - it was perfectly fine, and the module was the problem.
 
Yes, the DIS is the rectangular electronic device mounted on the A/C bracket and it has two electrical plug-ins (One on each side of it). If yours is bad and you replace it, make sure to use a Heat Sink compound underneath of it. Some have used Dielectric grease and not sure if that is a really smart idea, but I use the stuff from the computer store or auto parts store.

Come to think of it, make sure your son currently has some heat sink grease under the existing DIS..;)
 
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