Flexing/cracked Firewall

B

Banana Bender

Registered User
89SC: Back behind the clutch pedal. Unsurprisingly, this affects clutch operation. My mechanic (admittedly, a chevy guy) says in his experience this is a common design flaw with Fords: just not enough reinforcement on firewall. Chevy, of course, do the job right... ;) He's wedged in a strut from the engine bay side to counter some of the flexing, but says it needs an extra layer of metal welded in from the inside too. Will look at doing it without having to take out the whole dash (the latter would be too big of a job).

Have any of you ever run into this problem?
 
My firewall is cracked right in the middle, where the seams meet eachother behind the engine. Doesnt bother me all that much, but the chassis does have a good amount of flex.
How does it effect your clutch operation ? If its a problem, of course you'll want to repair the affected area, but I dont think you need to go ahead and strengthen the whole firewall for the clutch pedal.

- Dan
 
Pulling the Dash

Banana Bender said:
89SC: Back behind the clutch pedal. Unsurprisingly, this affects clutch operation. My mechanic (admittedly, a chevy guy) says in his experience this is a common design flaw with Fords: just not enough reinforcement on firewall. Chevy, of course, do the job right... ;) He's wedged in a strut from the engine bay side to counter some of the flexing, but says it needs an extra layer of metal welded in from the inside too. Will look at doing it without having to take out the whole dash (the latter would be too big of a job).

Have any of you ever run into this problem?
Click to expand...

Pulling the dash isn't that big of a deal. I've done it a couple of times. If you end up needing to do it, let me know. I can mail you the pages from the factory service manual that show how to do it very clearly. I think it's 22 steps.

JD
 
Ddubb said:
My firewall is cracked right in the middle, where the seams meet eachother behind the engine. Doesnt bother me all that much, but the chassis does have a good amount of flex.
How does it effect your clutch operation ? If its a problem, of course you'll want to repair the affected area, but I dont think you need to go ahead and strengthen the whole firewall for the clutch pedal.

- Dan
Click to expand...

Mechanic's saying I'm not getting full sweep of clutch pedal and so it's not releasing completely during gear change resulting in some crunching in first and second (I'm praying it's not synchros--he thinks it isn't). Till he put that wedge in, the clutch pedal was sitting low. Now it's sitting higher, but he thinks it has to come higher still (still some crunching--though it's a bit better). Essentially, I'm at his mercy. I don't have the tools or knowledge to do this one on my own. :(
 
txsc said:
Pulling the dash isn't that big of a deal. I've done it a couple of times. If you end up needing to do it, let me know. I can mail you the pages from the factory service manual that show how to do it very clearly. I think it's 22 steps.

JD
Click to expand...

Thanks for your offer, txsc. I'll keep you posted. If I pluck up the courage, I might go in and change some bulbs anyway... :)
 
I Have A Similar Problem. Mine Flexes And Causes The Similar Lack Of Clutch Depression. I Am Contemplating Making A Bracket That Extends Up Towards The Dashes Metal Structure That Would Brace It From Being Pushed Back Towards The Firewall, But Am Not Sure Yet. If I Am Hammering On The Bird, It Too Grinds 1-2 And 2-3, And I Have An Entirely New Tranny. I Am Ripping The Pedals Out In The Spring To Adapt To Non Abs Brakes, So I'll Dig Deeper Then. Until Then, Shes Plugged Up In Storage. Man I Miss It.
 
acb92sc said:
I Have A Similar Problem. Mine Flexes And Causes The Similar Lack Of Clutch Depression. I Am Contemplating Making A Bracket That Extends Up Towards The Dashes Metal Structure That Would Brace It From Being Pushed Back Towards The Firewall, But Am Not Sure Yet. If I Am Hammering On The Bird, It Too Grinds 1-2 And 2-3, And I Have An Entirely New Tranny. I Am Ripping The Pedals Out In The Spring To Adapt To Non Abs Brakes, So I'll Dig Deeper Then. Until Then, Shes Plugged Up In Storage. Man I Miss It.
Click to expand...

Off topic, but what program/system are you using that capitalizes each word? My phone can do it, but I can't imagine you using a PDA or phone to access all this.
 
Make sure that you have him check the actual clutch pedal to master cylinder attaching point and pivot point. The bushing there wears out and allows for excess movement in the joint. Along with the cracked firewall such slop could be furthering your issue.
 
I just found a very small crack beginning in mine just on the side of the tunnel on the drivers side.

How much will i have to remove to weld in that area?

Can I just pull the carpet back and weld the beginings of the crack while the engie is out, or is the heat likely to melt something in the dash?

I haven't looked inside the car to see what is close to the crack on the inside, but what kind of clearance is necessary in order not to damage something?

Thanks!
 
drill a small hole at both ends of the crack to stop it from traveling any further. A few small welds should hold it. If you keep them small the heat should be low enough not to hurt anything.

Mines an auto and I don't know exactly what it looks like under a standard dash. So your judgement is your best defense.
 
There are many possible reasons for clutches not disengaging completely. Mine does the same thing. Unless your firewall was REALLY whacked and flexing a WHOLE bunch I find it hard to believe that firewall flex is the reason. Just my $.02 worth.
 
I've cut a few of these cars up into lil pieces, you'd be surprised where else they'll develop cracks. One in particular that I remember is where the driveshaft tunnel meets the rear seat area.

'bird
 
I too find it hard to beleave that a crack in the fire wall could cause any clutch problems. The peddle and master are one unit. Sorry to say it looks like you have a bad shifter,blockers or syncros. Maybe your clutch line needs to be bleed? Look at the pic`s Only way if its so bad that your peddle bottoms out before depressing the master all the way.
 

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One other thing to check that'll cause ya misery is the bushing that goes on the rod that fits in the clutch cylinder shaft. If it wears far enuff like mine did then you'll have problems.

I know, I know...sounds like it would have nuthin' to do with anything but let that puppy wear far enuff and you'll see.

Koko has a few stashed that he got from Ford way back when but a fellow member sez he checked and these are obsolete now. I'll try to remember to call our connection and see if he's got some on the shelf.

'bird
 
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