ce light after a/c delete

flying bird

Registered User
has anybody else had this problem?The ce light says on and wont go off at all.any chance when i disconected the a/c it left an open circuit?I need to get new tags on my car this month and cant do it with the light on.I would check codes but dont have a way to do it,my accsess to the web is real limited so I may not be able to check until tommorrow,any help would be great,bob if you find anything out would you please forword it to my email tx shamus
 
take it to autozone they will at least tell you what the code is for free. There are several people including myself on here that can tell you the definition of whateverf they find.

If you had something disconnected and turned the ignition on that may have set the code. As much as I hate to say it, try disconnecting your battery and turning on your lights for 5 minutes. Turn off the lights before reconnecting. That should clear any memory, koeo, or koer, codes. Then you can see if it comes back.
 
The only thing that comes to mind is your temp sender wire. Dose your cooling fan run all the time? If so make shure its plugged in.
 

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thanks for the replys,I had left the fan unplugged on my first test drive by accident,so maybee thats why I have the light.I'm going to try to clear it tommorrow.I'm also getting a stumble upon accelartion,go's away when the car warms up.I had removed the top of the sc and ic tube for a differnt job and dont know if I sealed it right,it was the first time i've ever messed with an sc before.I used copper rtv on the top and teflon tape on the ic.
 
Use.....

Use the RTV grey on the IC tubes and top. The copper will work. Ford says NEVER use Teflon tape on the parts. It can get into the engine.

The Grey RTV works good or just get the TBIRD88 gaskets. Thay work wonders on these cars!!!

Don
 
flying bird said:
.....bob if you find anything out would you please forword it to my email
tx shamus
No problem Shamus. Swing by Autozone and they will run the codes for free.

lube70 said:
...Ford says NEVER use Teflon tape on the parts. It can get into the engine....
What??:confused: Ford used a Teflon tape on the IC tube connections from the factory, and also the Ford Techs have reamed me $20X to use Teflon tape on same connections when doing my P/S Pump. I'm confused..:confused: I now use TBird88's IC Gaskets for the last two years aso I don't have to deal with the expensive tape from Ford or SCP.
 
Jeremy_K said:
Pull the bulb out of the cluster before your test. It takes about 5 minutes.;)


I was thinking the same thing...but I'm sure they hook it up to the computers.

If you plugged in the Temp Sensor your check engine light should go off. Also this would cause the miss in throttle due to the fact that the computer is in a safe mod.

Also over in that area but not really where you where working is the IAC and TPS on the throttle...not sure if you touched them, but they will do the same too.

-Tim
 
Where i'm at if your vehicle is OBD-I then they don't plug anything into it. Just a sniffer in the tailpipe. OBD-II is tested at the diagnostic port for 96 and later vehicles.
 
still stuck

I was thinking about taking the bulb out,bout I want to know what is going on.btw I used a liquid teflon tape the kind uesd on the torbos on semi's.Today I tryed unhooking the battery with the lights on ,it did not reset it.I almost died when plulling out of my drive way with my two boy's in the car,it started bucking REAL BAD and almost died on me ,about 8 miles or so it started to act a little better.Before the a/c delete the car was running great.I'm picking up a code reader at a 24 parts store tonite when I get off work and will let you guy's know what I find out. thamks again,shamus
 
flying bird said:
I was thinking about taking the bulb out,bout I want to know what is going on.btw I used a liquid teflon tape the kind uesd on the torbos on semi's.Today I tryed unhooking the battery with the lights on ,it did not reset it.I almost died when plulling out of my drive way with my two boy's in the car,it started bucking REAL BAD and almost died on me ,about 8 miles or so it started to act a little better.Before the a/c delete the car was running great.I'm picking up a code reader at a 24 parts store tonite when I get off work and will let you guy's know what I find out. thamks again,shamus
If it's bucking it could be your cam sensor (about $32 at autozone). Next time it bucks, pull over, turn it off and wait a minute then start it back up. If it runs fine it could be the cam sensor is going out.
 
If you unhooked the battery to do the A/C Delete, maybe the EEC is just re-learning the car's running characterisitics all over.
 
they should both be 2 digit I think for that year. Local part stores will run them for you for free. KOEO and KOER
 
Im an idiot,I had left the electrical connector to the bps inplugged when I was removing the a/c lines.I still cant believe I didnt see it when I was running codes tx for the reply's.
 
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