Art Carr torque converter users need your input

"Got my Racing trans back"

Special thanks to Ron Randell of Interstate Transmissions in Modesto Calif for his help. On my 11.911et runs we found the Art Carr 2500 stall converter lost its stall along with burned high gear clutches in trans its a wonder it went 11.911et. I am going to go with Art Carr's AOD N/L Super Torque 9.5 dia with fab cover 3000 stall list for $488.00 will be going with Art Carr trans brake valve body as well. Question for you Art Carr users anyone runing this converter or a 9.5 dia? My old one was a 10" 2500 stall this car should dip into the low 11's now with no problems knock on wood ;) I was told the 3500 stall is not real streetable use

Thanks to SCPI on the quick service on getting the Art Carr harden input shaft shipped to me to make this possable thats a nice shaft Bill E.
 
Last edited:
Jim I had a 4200 stall in my car and drove 10,000 miles with it, but i did eventually cook the tranny, I didn't have a tranny temp gauge. now i have a 3500 stall with a temp gauge. put about 5000 miles on it. as long as i don't lug around in OD , i mean never in OD below, 55 then my tranny never went above 180-190 degrees. I think the 3500 is a good choice
 
Kevin Leitem said:
Jim I had a 4200 stall in my car and drove 10,000 miles with it, but i did eventually cook the tranny, I didn't have a tranny temp gauge. now i have a 3500 stall with a temp gauge. put about 5000 miles on it. as long as i don't lug around in OD , i mean never in OD below, 55 then my tranny never went above 180-190 degrees. I think the 3500 is a good choice


Thanks Kevin

Your input is much appreciated! What part number is your 3500 Art Carr? they list two one is up there in price. The 3500 stall seams good with trans brake before I couldent go past 1500 rpm's before the car torques out of shape and blows the tires loose using foot brake style. I was going to have the old on fixed but price of that you can buy a new one
 
go big and enjoy...

Go for the high stall, you will love it,IF and only IF you grt something that is going to be in your power range. Too many guys go for a converter that is not matched to the power band of your engine... My one car comes on at 3500 rpm's and that is where the converter starts to lock... The most important thing is to match these two parts. As for driveablity, I have had as high as 4500 on the street. That was a bit of a job to drive, but the mid 3000's are just plain fun to drive...
Now if you only race your car Jim, then it won't make much difference where your stall is.... Just match it to your power band and go and have some fun.....Rich
 
pro street rich said:
Go for the high stall, you will love it,IF and only IF you grt something that is going to be in your power range. Too many guys go for a converter that is not matched to the power band of your engine... My one car comes on at 3500 rpm's and that is where the converter starts to lock... The most important thing is to match these two parts. As for driveablity, I have had as high as 4500 on the street. That was a bit of a job to drive, but the mid 3000's are just plain fun to drive...
Now if you only race your car Jim, then it won't make much difference where your stall is.... Just match it to your power band and go and have some fun.....Rich


Thanks Rich!

I am going to contact Art Carr tech talk it over I think 3000-3500 is good with all the power we are now making it needs a bit more converter. I bought the 2500 when we where only going 13's the MPH fell off on the 11 second runs the converter and trans went away. I like the trans brake than I can come out on the converter the Hoosiers should hold it. We did a little extra to the trans to help the 60ft times just like to see what it can do with everything working together for once. I saw the roll cage pictures of your SC nice work a lot safer than mine
 
Jim Demmitt Jr said:
Thanks Kevin

Your input is much appreciated! What part number is your 3500 Art Carr? they list two one is up there in price. The 3500 stall seams good with trans brake before I couldent go past 1500 rpm's before the car torques out of shape and blows the tires loose using foot brake style. I was going to have the old on fixed but price of that you can buy a new one

it is the 9.5 inch non lockup converter
 
Kevin Leitem said:
it is the 9.5 inch non lockup converter


Thanks Kevin!

I found it part# 24035 AOD 9.5 dia N/L custom stall I like Art Carr converters they do nice work. We beat the hell out that 2500 stall for years thanks again for your help
 
3.500 is not all that bad. But as Kevin said do not do OD unless your up to speed and definately get a good cooler and gague to monitor with
 
Jim Demmitt Jr said:
That is nice!

C-4 with brake and 9.5 converter we thought about going to a C-4 back in 2001 its lighter and way much better than this AOD.Thats a nice price cost way more than that building one thanks for the tip
No problem Jim, looking forward to seeing some new times from you soon. Look at their feedback they have no problems and a friend of mine just put one in his mustang and it works great.
 
C-4 with brake and 9.5 converter we thought about going to a C-4 back in 2001 its lighter and way much better than this AOD.

Actually AOD's have been known to handle much more HP then a C4 when properly built.

If you want to go race do a poweglide conversion.

Ive done really bad things to c4's in the past....real bad things
 
DamonSlowpokeBaumann said:
Actually AOD's have been known to handle much more HP then a C4 when properly built.
I guess I won't ever be going to a C4 since I can't find an AOD that will hold up for more than about 10k miles and a couple dozen passes.
 
D&P Torque Converters

"Friday Surgery time"

My 10" Art Carr 2500 stall is going in for surgery Friday D&P Racing Torque Converters in Sacramento just 35 min from my work place. They are going to fix it and make it a 3000 stall also put an order in for the Art Carr trans brake valve body. I am starting to get the feeling of cant waite to go racing its coming together after so long its like a new car I havent sat in it in about two years now
 
Last edited:
Maybe this will help....

Now take all this with a grain of salt..... These are #'s for built trans that are for racing......C4's are good for 450 to 500 horse.....C6's are good for well over 800 horse.........AOD's are good for 400 to 450 horse.........
Now there are going to be some that will fall by the wayside sooner than the others.... There are also some that will keep going for even longer.... This is all related to how good and how tight it was built....These are #'s that are out there at many different locations.....
One last thing, YES you can use a C6 behind a 3.8 sc.... I know that this statement will get someone going,,,BUT Ford did build C6's with the small block bolt pattern.....I know,I have one to prove this statement.........Rich
 
pro street rich said:
Now take all this with a grain of salt..... These are #'s for built trans that are for racing......C4's are good for 450 to 500 horse.....C6's are good for well over 800 horse.........AOD's are good for 400 to 450 horse.........
Now there are going to be some that will fall by the wayside sooner than the others.... There are also some that will keep going for even longer.... This is all related to how good and how tight it was built....These are #'s that are out there at many different locations.....
One last thing, YES you can use a C6 behind a 3.8 sc.... I know that this statement will get someone going,,,BUT Ford did build C6's with the small block bolt pattern.....I know,I have one to prove this statement.........Rich


Rich yes C6's are good!

Our friend from Concord Calif my Dad built a stroker 427 with Shelby aluminum heads for his 68 Mustang it has the C6 built by ATO only big problem is there very heavy. He is now going to a powerglide lighter stronger my Dad ran a clutch C6 in his race car it was neat still have it here. All in all ATO is building some trick C4's for the Comp classes ATO told me the Ford AOD is junk he dont even work on them dont figure. Tell you one thing this clutch C6 would love to run it in something he did good with it won lots with it in the hay days of the 60-70's

(Note) Gas Rhonda my dads friend backed by Russ Davis Ford ran Nitro Funny Cars Mustangs with a Nitro burning 427 SOHC with a C6 from 68-70 and some of the other Ford racers ran them there strong and with Trans brake there killer but behind a 3.8 V6? thats adding weight much more than an AOD. Going with a C4 or Glide is the best move lighter stronger contact ATO in Sac his C4 unit top notch provin in Comp and TS and SG
 
Last edited:
Jim,

Glad to hear your getting the Silver Bullet back on the track. Looking forward to hearing how well it runs with the new trans and looser converter.

David
 
David Neibert said:
Jim,

Glad to hear your getting the Silver Bullet back on the track. Looking forward to hearing how well it runs with the new trans and looser converter.

David


Thank You David!

Hope to have it together and fired up in the within the next week I been bummed out the last three years. I am getting my head out of the sand and stop feeling sorry for myself and do what was so fun before racing the tbird. It will be fun keep pushing adding new stuff to it the New trans and changes we did to it and the better converter and trans brake cant waite to run her down the 1/4 mile once again
 
Jim Demmitt Jr said:
Thank You David!

Hope to have it together and fired up in the within the next week I been bummed out the last three years. I am getting my head out of the sand and stop feeling sorry for myself and do what was so fun before racing the tbird. It will be fun keep pushing adding new stuff to it the New trans and changes we did to it and the better converter and trans brake cant waite to run her down the 1/4 mile once again

Jim,

Cool...then you won't mind a little friendly rivalry.

David
 
Back
Top