Now, bumping 12s in the trunk.

AaronPierre

Registered User
Yo, whats up? This is Aaron, from Dallas Texas... used to be known as DJPhlex on the old board.
I haven't posted in months, and i haven't been big on watching the boards either, but i figured it was about time to...
So here's my update on the SC... Running Strong, taking 5.0s, and GTs, with my ported blower,raised top, pulley and exhaust.. I haven't put any current mods into the Black SC Rollin in Dallas, other than my new hittin 12s.

For those of you that think you have to remove the computer tray to add, 12s into your trunk... well, Your WRONG!
My 12s Fit perfect in my SC, in a Custom Profesionally Made Box. The 12s actually are mounted facing up to the computer try, and the box is ported; with the port visable with the back seats down.
This thing is a monster, hits harder than i ever imagined, and guys that work in car audio stores and are around nice systemsall the time are all impressed.
Best part is, the guy that Built my box, did it for 100 Bucks (he's a friend of mine). That is a killer deal for this type of box.
Anyone in the DFW area, that wants custom audio equipment, E-Mail me, and i'll hook you up with my buddy.
Anyone that wants a picture of my system, e-mail me and i'll send you them when get some in.
right now, i have a 600watt kenwood amp, the 12s are Audio Art (cost 130 each),and the deck in my car is a Pioneer Premier, the rest of the speakers are all stock and still sound pretty damn good. For having a relatively cheep costing system, i'm really impressed with them. I had two 10s in a normal box for a while, but they died and weren't hitting hard enough for my taste, but these 12s definately do it.

Anyways, those who know me, hollar at me.
Peace
-Aaron Pierre
 
just curious

I have a pair of 15" JBL's from the early 60's in my home system that I used to listen to. They need repair right now but hope to hear them soon. I love how "tight' they sound, they're about as efficient as it gets, rated around 94-96DBs, and are the most realistic speakers I've ever heard in my life when it comes to home stereo. At 5-8 watts the sound level is barely tolerable, at 10-12 watts you just about can't stay in the same room with them.

My point/question in all of this is, what am I after to replace the stock deck/speakers in my car? It's the original JBL Premium w/subwoofer etc. I'm leaning towards Alpine, heard one in a minitruck I liked, just lookin' for sound quality and "impact". I don't want to have to tighten the bolts on my car that loosen up because of some thump-thump box in the trunk, so I refuse to put a box in it.

A few tunes I'd like to hear in the car:
(this is where I get carried away)

SRV: Superstition
Aerosmith: Crazy
ZZ Top: Beer Drinkers & Hellraisers
Bon Jovi: Dead or Alive
B52s: Love Shack
Van Halen: Cradle Will Rock
Black Crows: Twice as Hard
Outlaws: Green Grass & High Tides
Queensryche: Jet City Woman
Bob Seger: Thunderbirds
Kenny Wayne S: Everything's Broken
Metallica: Unforgiven
Allman Bros: Southbound
REO Speedwagon: 157 Riverside Avenue
Journey: Feelin' That Way/Anytime
Thorogood: 1 Bourbon, 1 Scotch, 1 Beer
Hendrix: All Along the Watchtower

Yeah, got a little outa hand on that. Can't play my albums right now, turntable is on the blink so I was kinda jonesin' there.

Anyways, hope you or others have suggestions. Not crazy about a removable face, seems they wear out and next thing ya know I'm chasin'em out from under the seat but it seems that is the only thing available nowadays. Best luck I ever had was with a Pioneer Super Tuner, had a great FM section and beat the heck outa that Craig 8-track...

'bird
 
I can't wait to get my stuff hooked up. I have a 500x2 Rockford Fosgate amp (that was rated at 762) and 2 RF HE2 Dual Voice Coil 12s 800 watts each. $200 speakers I got for 86 (one of the few redeeming things about working at Best Buy) $400 amp, I got it for 286. Those speakers are heavy as hell, the magnet is HUGE.
 
Sounds like those old JBLs you have are paper cone woofers. Extremely efficient and responsive, due to being much lighter than modern speaker cones. Alpine is a very good brand for head units; Kenwood has excellent sound quality but people have had reliability issues with them in recent times. Panasonic is good for durability, and they seem to sound decent. For speakers, MBquart is an excellent brand. Superb sound quality and volume. These are expensive speakers however. Infinitis would also fair well, and new JBLs would probably also be pretty good.
 
id have to disagree with you on the panasonic deck thing. PANASONIC DECKS SUCK! Ya they may look nice all lite up and pretty but they are rated at the bottom of the chain, just above sony. They skip, have NO features, and no REAL customization of bass and treble (you can just turn it up and down) Alpine, Pioneer, Clarion, and Eclipse would be my choice of good decks.
BTW, 89BlownBrd your car is gonna fall apart man, i have 2 12 HEs, running off of a punch 360.2 and my car pounds. gotta make sure you wire your DVCs properly though, if you dont do it right it will sound like ****:)
 
I'm not putting them in the Bird...once I get it fixed, it's gone. I'm waiting for my next car, which hopefully will be another MarkVIII because the box fits perfectly in there. I don't remember how the DVCs are wired, whether it's in series or parallel. How are you thinking to wire it? I always thought my old 250 watt 12 with a 400 watt amp were loud.....can't wait to hear these.
 
try like this, or go to www.rockfordfosgate.com, they should have a way thats perfect for your setup, i had a set of pheonix golds like this and it sounded awesome. let me know what you figure out:)
 

Attachments

  • amp.jpg
    amp.jpg
    9.4 KB · Views: 298
nakamichi.

their decks sound awesome. the cd45z is $450 and imo, sounds as good as decks 3 times its cost. and I do work in this industry, so this is somewhat of a researched/educated suggestion. however, no frills. simple bass/mid/high level controls, fader, balance. thats it. but phenomenal sound quality.

its all in how you use the box as well. you could run a single 10" sub that would add a lot of clean, punchy impact, but as long as you don't play music that will shake your car apart, at levels that will shake your car apart, it won't happen.
 
In the cat i have an Alpine deck w/ 6 disk changer in the glove box. stock speakers in the sides with a JL w6 12 in the trunk in a bandpass box driven by a 400 watt crunch 4 channel. my box fits perfectly under the amp tray with about 4 inches on each side and i can get my spare out without a problem. Alpines rock!!! It has a detachable face but i have never taken it off, thats what door locks are for.... Bill:)
 
Livn,

It's best not to wire speakers in series and bridge the amp. The amp will have less control of the speaker due to slight differences.
When wiring dual VC speakers to a 2 channel amp that is 2 ohms stable. The best sound quality will come from wiring each speaker in parallel and running one on each channel of the amp. The wiring you have accomplishes the same power, but it's best to control the speakers on separate channels.

Jeff


I wouldn't call Rockford Fosgate regarding any speaker designs. Every time they try to force a speaker into to small an enclosure. Like the time they said a 2.5 cuft box was going to be large enough for 2 18's in a isobaric enclosure. Then I was told to try a 4" port that would make the Blue Man Group cringe.

But if you ever have a problem repairing an amp talk to Neil, he's the man.

Nice to hear from you again Aaron.
 
Naki decks suck, they are over priced. Eclipse decks sound not be in the same line as Pioneer, Clarion and Alpine, Eclipse deck skip on every bump and when ever you are hitting hard.

I have a pionner and its one of the best decks ive had, im think about getting a clarion.

2.5cu.ft for an isobaric mount is plenty even for 18's. I know i just built a iso box for a customer with 2-15" and the volume was 2.25cubes.

As far as i system i have 1-12" Shocker Audio and 2-MA Audio SY7011DX strapped together producing 3800watts :) Thats right to only ONE 12" To see what the beast looks like go to
www.shockeraudio.com

Peace
Todd
 
That's not how I have mine wired, mine are in parallel. Positive from the amp to the first positive on the speaker, then from there to the other positive, negative from the amp to the first negative on the speaker, then from there to the other negative. I was told by the installer that would give the best sound.
 
The way you have it drawn is that you are wiring each sub in series for an 8 ohm load. Then you are combining each 8 ohm load in parallel for a 4 ohm load. Then you have the amp bridged. Correct?

If you wire each sub in parallel (+ to + & - to -) you will have 2 2 ohm loads. Then connect each speaker to a separate channel.
90% of installers don’t even understand ohms law. Both ways put the EXACT amount of power to each speaker, in this case. 4 ohm bridged is the same as 2 ohm stereo. The difference is that an amp can better control the speakers.

There are only 3 real connections for the speakers in an amp, were talking about signal wires not power wires so don'’ think of the chassis ground or battery + (most any car amp nowadays). There is the positive a Negative and ground. When you hook 2 speakers up to an amp one speaker lead is connected to negative it’s other end will connect to ground, and will be the positive side of that speaker. The other speaker will have one connection to the positive lead and the other lead is connected to the ground and that is the – lead for that speaker.

To explain this a little easier imagine 2 12V car batteries. The + of one is connected to the – of the other. If you were to take a meter and measure the voltage between the free – and the free + you would have 24V.
Now if you measure with the negative lead at the junction between the batteries and place the red lead on the + terminal you would have +12V. Now if you place the red lead on the - lead you get –12V. The middle point is a ground (a reference point). If you do the math you will find that the power delivered to the subs in either configuration will be the same, it’s just that the amp can control subs in parallel better than it can when they are in series

Jeff
 
cheeriosluvr said:
Naki decks suck, they are over priced. Eclipse decks sound not be in the same line as Pioneer, Clarion and Alpine, Eclipse deck skip on every bump and when ever you are hitting hard.

I have a pionner and its one of the best decks ive had, im think about getting a clarion.

like I said no frills on the Naks, but awesome sound quality, if you need pretty lights and kabillions of adjustments, then pick pioneer, thats a legitamate arguement. with nak you are paying for sound quality. but there are reasons not to buy nak; no eqs, no crossovers, no bass boost, they state that they don't like cdrs. not trying to start anything, just a researched opinion.
 
Finaly! Something I know about!

I agree with cinstral on this! Hey cheeriosluvr, take a look at ebay before you say Nakamichi is overpriced. Got my CD-45z for $280 after looking at many many $600, $700, even $1000+ decks for audio fidelity. Out of everything I tested (Nak,Clarion, Pioneer Premier, Kenwood, Sony, McIntosh, Alpine, Blaupunkt), the only two that edged it out in low-noise, accurate soundstage, and closeness to the origional recording were the Sony CDX-C90, and another Nakamichi, the CD-700. Both of which are $1200 decks. BTW, if your going with a newer Clarion, let me warn you that the features they have are terrible. The only acceptible Clarion I know of is the 9255. Came out a few years ago, you can find one for about $500, but it still doesnt match the CD-45z's soundstage accuracy. Realize that Im a hardcore audiophile, and that my advice is based as such. Oh, and you want loud??? I'll bet my two sealed Infinity BETA 15s ($80 on ebay) will blow your 3600w sub out of the water in price, SPL, and SQ, with only 300w a piece. Per sub specs: 98db sensitivity (103db in-car), 450w rms, 15hz-300hz with less than a 3db dropoff, and fast as hell with virtually no overhang. Im getting 147db at the dash with subs only and 600w of power from a PPI 2150AM. The nicest SPL sub I've found is the Adire Audio BRAHMA. Take a look at www.ampmanaudio.com if your into that kind of thing. 88tbird, look for a BETA 10 on ebay, and put it in a .5ft3 box. Give her about 60w, and you will grin ear to ear. :D
 
i got a pioneer deck and i think they have the best ones,all the adjustments is what i like....i got a fosgate 15 hx2 dvc and i had a box that fit my 83 tbird trunk but not my 93sc so anybody have any good plans for a box or recomendations?i also got this small fosgate 250.2 brigded with the speaker wired 2 ohms and it sounds alright the amp says 250rms x1 4ohms so that sub wired 2 ohms to it what do u think that amp is really pushin?the funny thing is i bought the kenwood 1000 watt amp and man what a bucket!! it barely sound slouder than the fosgate and when i bridge the amp it starts cuttin out when u dont even turn it up loud!!no matter the gain and the fosgate i can turn all the way up if i wanted to ,i was lookin at the power acoustik digital class d amps,anybody have any expirience with these? what do u guys think?
 
i got a pioneer deck and i think they have the best ones,all the adjustments is what i like....i got a fosgate 15 hx2 dvc and i had a box that fit my 83 tbird trunk but not my 93sc so anybody have any good plans for a box or recomendations?i also got this small fosgate 250.2 brigded with the speaker wired 2 ohms and it sounds alright the amp says 250rms x1 4ohms so that sub wired 2 ohms to it what do u think that amp is really pushin?the funny thing is i bought the kenwood 1000 watt amp and man what a bucket!! it barely sound slouder than the fosgate and when i bridge the amp it starts cuttin out when u dont even turn it up loud!!no matter the gain and the fosgate i can turn all the way up if i wanted to ,i was lookin at the power acoustik digital class d amps,anybody have any expirience with these? what do u guys think?
 
Running that amp at a 2-ohm bridge will theoretically double the power to 500W, 250 each coil, but that amp is not meant to run into that low an impedance. You will blow it up, and their a bitch to fix (Damn MESHA system). When you bridge an amp each channel of the amp "sees" half of the total load. It basically means that you are running 1 ohm stereo. Did you ever blow the fuse in the power wire, if you have one then I bet you did or at least melted the fuse block.

You should just run each channel of the amp to each coil on the speaker, bridging will get you nothing with the equipment you have. If you were the coils in series jump one + one 1 - on the speaker, then connect the remanding + and - lead to the amps bridged output the speakers (coils) get the exact power as the stereo configuration.

You may have run this system for a while, but now that you know it will break soon, I call it Elmer Fudd Syndrome.

Jeff
 
Supply & Demand tbird88...

The BETAs were only around for a couple years, and didn't fair very well on the market because of 3 things...1) It was designed as a fast, musical sub for classical & jazz passages. 2) It was very expensive for the power handling it had. 3) Was designed for small sealed enclosures only.

When they produced these things (around 1996-1998), no one was willing to spend $700 on a sound quality sub, that only played 350w rms, designed for small sealed boxs when all people really cared about was big, boomy bass to be heard from blocks away. The COOL thing is, because most people had no idea how driver specs work, they totally dismissed the insanely high sensitivity ratings of the sub. And most people that actually DID buy them, put them in boxes they wernt designed for, effectively making them sound like poo. So, you see them floating around every now and then from ebay, practically being given away at next to nothing. 2 12" for $100? I would definately look into it. Build a sealed, trapazoidal box with 1.5ft3 of space for both drivers, spray the box with some b-quite spray, and then line three of the six sides (opposing sides are left bare) with a 1" layer of fiberglass or polyfill. Now, make sure your amp is 2 ohm mono stable, or that the BETAs are DVC. If you dont have an amp, look for a a/d/s amp on ebay. They are relitively low cost/low powered/hi-fi amps that stay stable at low impediances. If the subs are DVC, then any 2 channel amp will do. Make sure you run the the subs in series-parallel.
 
Back
Top